New Diesel Engine: Buck Marine Diesel - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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New Diesel Engine: Buck Marine Diesel

Just wanted to get the word out on a new type of Diesel Engine. This engine is called Buck Marine Diesel.

I work at Buck Marine Diesel. We are currently developing a prototype diesel engine specifically designed for inboard marine use, with some possible OTR applications in the future. We're still working on things right now. We're getting VERY close to getting the first prototype fully up and running. We had it running the other day and were able to make a little power.

We are currently working on a 6-cylinder model with 3- and 4-cylinder models to follow. The engines have a unique two injector per cylinder design that will increase the fuel mapping potential exponentially and result in lower emissions capability. The family of engines will range from 150 to 700 HP and have been designed from the bottom up with a totally different approach. These engines are capable of exceptional cooling, allowing for substantial improvements in power output while increasing longevity.

The cooling path for this engine is a fraction of most engines. In the classic designs, coolant flows into the front of the engine, all the way back to the rear cylinder, then back out the front. This means that the rear cylinder is always receiving water that has already been heated by the previous cylinders.

In the Buck Marine system, the coolant flows individually into and out of each cylinder. This means that the all of the cylinders will be operating at the same temperature at all times. Using individual and shorter cooling paths, will also help eliminate hot spots and temperature stacking.

The engine also has a dual cooling system that uses both an internal coolant as well as circulating raw water from whatever body of water the boat is in. This cooling system will keep the engine running cool, allowing us to generate more power. If a problem should arise, the engine is also very serviceable.

The modular cylinder design allows for easy maintenance. With our design, you can change an individual cylinder, head, piston, and connecting rod without having to remove the crank case. We are estimating that the entire upper half of the engine (cylinders, heads, pistons, and connecting rods ) could be entirely replaced in about 3 hours time. Each of the aforementioned parts is also interchangeable with each of the other cylinders and with the pther engines (a con rod off a 6 will fit a 3 or 4 cylinder model as well).

In addition, nearly every seal is made with an o-ring of some form, meaning that the gasket set for the entire engine can fit in a gallon-sized plastic bag. These two factors will significantly reduce part inventory. A video of the connecting rod replacement procedure is available on the website.

While running under a moderate load at about 2500 rpm, the exhaust temperatures were around 1000 degrees F. We were actually having problems getting the engine to heat up! We ended up having to shut the raw water supply almost completely off (just enough flow so we didn't burn up the impeller and a clamp on the hose going to the heat exchanger). We ran under those conditions for about 45 minutes. The hottest that the coolant pump got was about 200 degrees F. None of the 6 heads were over 160 degrees and all of them were within about 3 degrees of one another. The highest engine temperature we recorded was about 215 degrees F.

We will hopefully be back up and running by the end of next week. So far, we have only gotten about 160 Hp at 9 gal/hr fuel burn. My boss's boat has 2 Cat diesels, when he is burning 35 gal/hr, he gets about 565 Hp. So let's assume it's a linear trend, at 36 gal/hr, we will be getting about 640 Hp! We are extremely happy with these numbers and as soon as we get more, I will be sure to let everyone know.

Check out our website for further pictures and videos.

Feel free to ask any questions that you have.

Buck Marine Diesel

This is a video of our cylinder replacement procedure:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsgCHbptRRc

This is a video of our engine actually up and running:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5PkOV6gxZA
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-24-2008, 05:47 AM
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Tim.,

If you don't mind one question to ask .,

When you ran the engine on the dynometer what was the raw water coolant tempture when you ran it ?

Merci,Marc
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-24-2008, 12:27 PM
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Tim.,

If you don't mind one question to ask .,

When you ran the engine on the dynometer what was the raw water coolant tempture when you ran it ?

Merci,Marc
I too have some questions! The show ! in the animation the head being removed the the only thing that dosent make sence to me is the push tubes for the valves were never removed.the other is the rod cap what holds the rod cap in place once disconected from the rod? Curious!
The ideas are great if they work.

Last edited by fjh; 12-24-2008 at 12:29 PM.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-24-2008, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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When you ran the engine on the dynometer what was the raw water coolant tempture when you ran it ?
The raw water was being drawn from a large tank we have outside, so whatever the ambient air temperature was that day. I believe around 60 degrees F.

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I too have some questions! The show ! in the animation the head being removed the the only thing that dosent make sence to me is the push tubes for the valves were never removed.the other is the rod cap what holds the rod cap in place once disconected from the rod? Curious!
The ideas are great if they work.
The pushrods are not shown in that video. They are located in the on the exhaust manifold side of the engine. They simply pull out when you take the head off.

There is a windage tray located underneath the mains, on top of the oil pan. When you take the bolts out of the rod and pull the rod out, the cap falls onto this tray. There is enough clearance that you can reach down past the crankshaft and pull the cap out. With the tray, you don't have to worry about the cap or any bolts that you drop falling into the oil.

Keep the questions coming!!!
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-24-2008, 04:15 PM
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What is the displacement of those engines? Approximate weight? Are they manufactured from aluminum or are they shiney because they're new? I really like the design concepts. Good job.

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-24-2008, 06:42 PM
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Tim.,

I am not sure if you are aware with this or not { I am pretty sure you allready now this } most marine engine manufacters do test the engines with raw water about 80F or 85F espcally that way it will affect the peformaice on the engine.


Merci,Marc
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-29-2008, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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What is the displacement of those engines? Approximate weight? Are they manufactured from aluminum or are they shiney because they're new? I really like the design concepts. Good job.
The cylinders are about 78 ci each. So a 6-cylinder is about 468 ci. When the 6 is fully loaded and ready to run, it weighs about 1500 lbs. The main engine carrier is cast iron. The cylinder jugs are aluminum with a cast iron sleeve.

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Tim.,

I am not sure if you are aware with this or not { I am pretty sure you allready now this } most marine engine manufacters do test the engines with raw water about 80F or 85F espcally that way it will affect the peformaice on the engine.


Merci,Marc
We do realize that and when we have a full-scale-production-awesome-new-facility that's what we'll do For now, we're working with what we have, which is a big blue tank that sits outside the shop
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-29-2008, 04:09 PM
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Tim
>The cylinder jugs are aluminum with a cast iron sleeve.<
I love the design of this engine simple is good.BUT.
Arent you guys setting your selves up for electrolosis and cavitation problems with ths idea????
would not a full cast sleeve be better?Salt water is my thought here!!

Last edited by fjh; 12-29-2008 at 04:12 PM.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-31-2008, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Tim
>The cylinder jugs are aluminum with a cast iron sleeve.<
I love the design of this engine simple is good.BUT.
Arent you guys setting your selves up for electrolosis and cavitation problems with ths idea????
would not a full cast sleeve be better?Salt water is my thought here!!
The sleeve design (for now) is a dry sleeve, so unless you get salt water into your oil, there is no way that it can get to the sleeve. And if it's in your oil, You have bigger problems
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-01-2009, 12:33 AM
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The sleeve design (for now) is a dry sleeve, so unless you get salt water into your oil, there is no way that it can get to the sleeve. And if it's in your oil, You have bigger problems
Your running the water into the aluminum case around the liner from the water rail correct??
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