Join Date: Jan 2009
Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts
First off your lie o meter is probably way off, mine usually was. Even if you go by the book its not very accurate.
And when you consider I smile when its above 20 and frown when its below, its pretty important to be accurate.
I found its most accurate if you reset it with the trip after fueling up.
As for the best gains in mpg, HP and mpg sorta hold hands to a point. Meaning what you do to help HP also helps mpg, to a point, once you start adding a double lifter pump and big injectors you start going down the mpg scale while climbing the hp out the roof.
Every mpg book out there even the "100mpg" book from the mid 80's start with one key concept. The easier it is to move the less energy it takes to roll. That means road tires are better than Boggers, manual hubs are better than semi automatic, 3.50 gears are better than 4.10 , etc.
I would look at letting her breath better. Cold air intake, cold side intercooler pipe, down pipe, dpf delete and exhaust are all things I've done to help mine breath and it helps.
If you look at the stock filter, stock cold side pipe, intake pipe and down pipe, not to mention the choking dpf and limited 3.5" stock exhaust its hard to say it wouldn't help. The cold side pipe itself almost a maze, and the exhaust is nearly as bad.
Unfortunately you can't remove the dpf without legal issues and a aftermarket tuner.
Aside from that there are a few other things you can do to help mileage.
-Keep the truck empty, hauling that 4 wheeler is great on the weekend but mon-fri when you don't need it its just another 400 lbs of crap you burning fuel to move.
-Drive the speed limit, there is a point that you begin to use a given precentage more of fuel to get that next mph, over the last, find it and keep it at or below. Stock my truck ran better at 65 than 70.
-There is an never ending debate over tailgate and tonneau cover effects, that I won't get into
-If its comfortable outside run the fan and not the ac, the ac compressor will steal at least 15 hp from an engine, same goes in the winter the defroster runs the ac compressor.
-Again I won't touch the debate on window up and window down, but if I'm 40 mph or slower I usually have a driver arm.
-Properly filled tires, over inflation and under inflation are not only bad for your tires but bad for your economy as well.
-Don't drive it!!! If you need a handful of items at the grocery store less than a mile away, walk you save money and get exercise. Same concept applies if you have another vehicle. I myself use the R6 to get hardware when I'm low and try to only use the truck to pick up larger items.
-Charge for use, everyone loves to ride around in the big powerful truck. But no one pays for the fuel but you. If you get tagged for the beer run, or the DD, somebody should compensate you for your hard earned money, and there is other compensation beyond cash.
Hope some of that helps.
2010 Heartland Sundance 3300RLB
2009 XLT F150 Super Crew Short Box 4x4 5.4L[
2008 Lariat F350 Crew Cab Long Box 4x4 6.4L
-Spartan tuned, S&B Cold Air Intake, Cold side Intercooler pipe, 4" Down pipe, Powerstroker67 DPF/CAT delete, MBRP 4" Black Series w/5" tip.
2005 Yamaha R6
1971 M35A2 AM General W/O Winch