To start off we decided to completely change the the way the pipe matted to the intercooler. We choose to shorten the overall length of the pipe which reduced the bends and eliminated the hot spots in the pipe. We choose to mount it higher because there was a larger natural opening in the core support which we could trim eliminating the need to crimp the pipe in any location to avoid touching. The only pieces that are from the factory pipe are the 2 ends because they are ribbed to fit the boots and there is no way we can duplicated it. the rest of the pipe is 3" aluminized steel that we painted silver for the time being to resist rust. The plan is to send this pipe to the mandrel bender for duplication to produce a uniform unwelded pipe in either aluminized or stainless steel. Depending if the price is resonable we will offer these pipes in either the mandrel bent form or we will custom fab every pipe whatever price is more reasonable in the end.
The results are an there has been no scientific testing done just @ss dyno and egt gauge readings. From the initial drive out of the driveway I noticed that the power came on way smoother no more touchy pedal that I associated with the sct tune. As I eased down on the throttle to 3/4 throttle I certainly feels like the truck pulls way harder then before and that any little air turbulence is gone. The overall driving experience is better than before its a definitely noticeable difference. The EGT drop is about 30-35 degrees when loaded. I tested the egts by going up a long high gradual incline @ 65mph with the converter looked in fifth. The outside temp was 45degrees with stock pipe and 60degrees with modded pipe and we saw a 30-35degree drop on a warmer day. I will post up an mpg that I might have picked up as I drive it more.
So here are the pics tell me whatcha think :thumbsup
no much less than 1/4" of an inch off the upper part of the core support and the core cuts really easy with a little grinder. the reason we chose to raise where the pipe comes through the core is because there alot of available room up there that's going to waste.
Looks good...thats actually the cold side though...thats the OUT from the intercooler and goes into the elbow. The otherside....the one going IN to the cooler on the bottom is the hotside/charge side.
I promise I will make sure that I get this right for u guy's I will tell you that the more I drive it the faster it feels !
Joe, I tried to call you this weekend but you were probably having to much fun to answer the phone. :haha what's the estimated completion time on elite finishing your truck? take some pics of the cfm elbow intake mod !
Any ETA on getting something? I am about to install my nitrous and would like to just tab this new tube instead of the new stock one I have sitting here
I finally got access to a local engine builders SuperFlow Wet/Dry flowbench. Im going over today to flow this intake tube.. yet again. Im going to compare it to an equal length same diameter straight tube. I seriously do not think you're going to see 100cfm difference between the two. Just the diameter and size alone with some quick calcs on paper tell us that tube will EASILY flow over 4000CFM, which is more than 2.5x what the 6.4 would ever call for even at 60lbs of boost @ 4000 rpm.
I know the tube looks restrictive, but you gotta remember, air and liquid do NOT act the same. The tube looks hella restrictive for liquid, but not for air. Liquid has viscosity and mass - air does not - thus the changing of shape where it sneaks thru the core support is not going to restrict air in the same manner it would liquid. I realize that the inside diameter gets smaller BUT the width of the tube increases which appears to keep the square inches of area the same. - a quick measure thru there will show you almost the same size in square inches of area.
We ran into a few small problems, but got it done.
1) Jigging the tube up wasn't fun, but it's jigged.
2) His Superflow bench is a 1020 Model which will only push about 50" inches of water. In layman's terms, it takes 256" of water to obtain 10psi - so 50" inches of water will only let us flow at around 4psi, however we could only get about 2.3psi.
That being said we're having a hard time coming up with numbers that we can use to convert the flow numbers we're seeing from the bench into CFM (Cubic Feet/Min). I cant tell you how many CFM either tube flows, I can only tell you the flow differences between each tube.. if that makes any sense.
I AM happy to tell you that my assertions were almost correct. We saw a .10% difference (multiple repeatable baseline!!) in flow numbers at 2.3psi on the stock tube versus an equal length, equal overall diameter piece of straight aluminized steel pipe. Airflow dynamics will tell us that those percentage numbers will remain constant regardless of pressure being applied. (If we were talking fluids then we'd have to factor in viscosity, cavitation, etc etc)
Final findings........
Stock tube flows .10% less overall than a completely straightened, equal length, equal diameter tube.
Gahanna- in response to your post... Air does have mass . If I knew exactly what air was made of (Nitrogen, Oxygen, and CO2 mostly) I could tell you the weight of the air in a particular volume, although minute, it still exists.
Hence the mass airflow sensor on an engine. It will all depend on the humidity, temperature and pressure. Again, minute but as long as the tests are taken under the same conditions, I believe it could just be disregarded (if referrencing the mass of air in regards to this particular test) .
I mean no disrespect.. but installing this on your truck will net you .10% better flow. If you want to spend the money for a one tenth of a percent better flow, then be my guest.
I am with you...but I need a second tube for my nitrous nozzles anyhow...may as well get one that flows .10 cfm more
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