Okay guys. I'll explain how it works. First off though, wastegate instructions beyond the somewhat vague email instructions are in the works, and we apologize for lack of clear instructions. Secondly, yeah, we're closed on the weekends, but you shouldn't expect
somebody from Elite
to answer from the forum. If you need to get a hold of us, your best bet is to call the shop (866-631-8518, or local 719-647-0232) during business hours. We're open from 8-5:30, mountain time, and closed from 12-1 for lunch. If you're not having good luck with that, or it's the weekend, sure, try here. Send a pm to me or Garrett (Giddy-up-go) and we'll do the best we can if we're on.
As far as plumbing the wastegate:
Disregard wastegate manufacturer's instructions as we've found in this application our setup is more reliable and accurate. The blue hose connects to a boost reference preferably close to the compressor outlet. It then goes to the inlet side of the regulator. The regulator has 3 outlets. 2 of them get plugged, and the 3rd goes to the side port of the wastegate. The top port of the wastegate gets the barbed fitting attached, and the hose as well if you'd like. It vents to the atmosphere.
Depending on the brand of wastegate (tial or precision) there will be 1 or 2 side ports. If you have 1, you're fine. Proceed as previously described. If you have 2 side ports, plug 1 of them (either one is fine) and use the other as your port from the regulator as described above.
Adjusting the wastegate regulator:
when turned all the way counter-clockwise, the wastegate will not open until back pressure reaches at least 65 psi, possibly as high as 85 psi
EBP. from there, the more you turn it clockwise, the sooner it dumps. If you go too far clockwise, it will dump the exhaust pressure too early, and you won't be able to build sufficient boost.
Where to set the wastegate:
You'll need an accurate pressure gauge for boost and exhaust back pressure. The dash daq provides these readings as such; manifold gauge pressure is the same as actual boost pressure. EBP (exhaust back pressure) is atmospheric pressure + exhaust back pressure. MAP (manifold absolute pressure) is boost pressure + atmospheric pressure. It is easiest to use MAP and EBP as readings, but if you like math, you can use MGP and EBP - atmospheric pressure. The ideal street ratio is approximately 10 psi actual peak exhaust pressure higher than actual boost pressure. For example, If your EBP reads 75 and your MAP reads 65, you're perfect. Assuming an atmospheric pressure of 13 psi, you'd also be perfect having EBP of 75, and MGP of 52. To know your actual atmospheric pressure, look at EBP or MAP with key on, engine off.
In a perfect world on the dyno you'd have a perfect 1:1 ratio of boost and back pressure. If this is your goal, expect street manners and drivability to suffer. Peak power could improve slightly, but it's usually not worth trying for a perfect 1:1 ratio. If you have any more questions please just give us a call as I'm not much of a novelist. I hope this helps.