Vp44...... - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 01-05-2009, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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I dont know the tool set up off the top of my head its been a while since I done one.. But here goes.....

start by disconnecting the batterys. and loosening up the clamp on the IC boot to the intake horn... take out the 4 intake horn bolts.. Next remove the plastic over over the throttle cables, on top of the IP, (x3 13mm) an lay it off to the side.... Next take off the banjo lines comming from the lift pump to the fuel bowl, and the fuel bowl to the IP. Disconnect the WIF sensor, and unplug the connector for the lift pump. take on the (x2 8mm) bolts that hold on the fuel bowl and remove it. Now quick disconect the feed like to the lift pump, and take out the (x3 10mm) that hold in the lift pump..

Take off all the little 8mm that hold the fuel lines in place. and start cracking the lines loose at the pump.. ( you dont have to take themoff the injectors) Unplug the connector on top of the pump, un screw the oil fill cap, Break the big nut loose, DONT loose that cruch washer.... or you will take apart the front of the motor if not the oil pan. Theres 3 nuts that hold the pump on I think there a 15mm.. kinda a pita to get to, and there is a bracket that holds the pump to the block, take that bracket off, and wiggle out the pump.

Line up the key ways.. (clock them) or you wont get the pump to into the pump gear, I usually use gorllia snot or dumb dumb to hold the new key way in place while you re install the pump..

The install process is the same steps but backwards...

Please if I missed something out feel free to add its been awhile since I done one.....


95-dodge 2500 built to the hill... - sold to litle brother
03- stroker 6.0 studs and basic BS

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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 06:36 PM
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remove intake horn- 5x10mm bolts, and 1x11mm for the clamp on the rubber boot

remove APPS set-up, 3x13mm bolts, I like to unplug the harness to get it out of the way

remove the vp-44 harness- be careful, you have to pull on the slide latch and pull on the harness in one motion using 2 hands. if you dont you will either fight with it all day or simply break it.

next remove the oil breather on the front of the timing case. use the nut on the alternator or a crank bolt to turn the motor over. using a mirror you can look into the front case at the gear and you will be able to see the keyway behind the nut. you want the keyway to be lined up on the top vertically. see my highly detailed drawing below.

Now using a breaker bar and socket (I forget the size) you can break the nut loose, be careful not to turn the motor over tho...I use a dead blow hammer to hit the breaker br and give it a quick jolt to break the nut loose. remove the nut and the lock washer behind it...if you don't, the washer will fall inside the case and ruin your weekend. I put a small pick or screw driver at the end of the pump shaft, and another pick with a 90* bend at the end to pull the washer out and slide it onto the screwdriver so it cant fall down in the case.

now using a generic steering wheel puller or vp44 gear puller put the puller on the gear using the 2 bolt holes on the sides (I believe you will need M10x1.25) bolts for your puller to thread into the gear. the gear will finally just pop loose.

next I like to remove the fuel supply and return lines from the side of the pump

now using a 3/4” or equivalent metric wrench loosen all the high pressure lines at the head, and from the pump. Do not remove the clips that hold the lines together. You will notice the lines are in 2 bundles of 3, they come off the pump in these 2 groups and can be removed easily. You will need to remove a few of the 10mm intake plate bolts to get the lines off.

there are 2 bolts below the pump now for the support bracket, they are located facing the rear of the engine below the 6 outlets from the pump head. I forget the size, but these come off next

Next there are 4x15mm nuts that hold the pump to the timing case. Using long extensions and working from the rear of the pump you can get these off, you will drive yourself crazy trying to reach them through the gap between the pump and cylinder head!

Once you remove the nuts the pump will wiggle loose and slide right out. You can reinstall the new pump doing just the opposite. Line up the key way and slide the pump in and start re-assembling.

Couple pointer for reinstall:
-to put the 15mm nuts back on, place a paper towel over the socket and push the nut into the socket, it will make the nut stay in without falling out so you can slide it under/behind the pump to start the nuts.
-put the lock washer and nut back on the gear, tighten the nut until its snug, use a break bar to give it a quick jolt or two to make sure its tight, when it tries to turn the motor over its tight enough
-when putting the fuel lines back on make sure to start both ends at the pump and head before tightening them…if not you will fight trying to line them up if one end is tight already
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