remove intake horn- 5x10mm bolts, and 1x11mm for the clamp on the rubber boot
remove APPS set-up, 3x13mm bolts, I like to unplug the harness to get it out of the way
remove the vp-44 harness- be careful, you have to pull on the slide latch and pull on the harness in one motion using 2 hands. if you dont you will either fight with it all day or simply break it.
next remove the oil breather on the front of the timing case. use the nut on the alternator or a crank bolt to turn the motor over. using a mirror you can look into the front case at the gear and you will be able to see the keyway behind the nut. you want the keyway to be lined up on the top vertically. see my highly detailed drawing below.
Now using a breaker bar and socket (I forget the size) you can break the nut loose, be careful not to turn the motor over tho...I use a dead blow hammer to hit the breaker br and give it a quick jolt to break the nut loose. remove the nut and the lock washer behind it...if you don't, the washer will fall inside the case and ruin your weekend. I put a small pick or screw driver at the end of the pump shaft, and another pick with a 90* bend at the end to pull the washer out and slide it onto the screwdriver so it cant fall down in the case.
now using a generic steering wheel puller or vp44 gear puller put the puller on the gear using the 2 bolt holes on the sides (I believe you will need M10x1.25) bolts for your puller to thread into the gear. the gear will finally just pop loose.
next I like to remove the fuel supply and return lines from the side of the pump
now using a 3/4” or equivalent metric wrench loosen all the high pressure lines at the head, and from the pump. Do not remove the clips that hold the lines together. You will notice the lines are in 2 bundles of 3, they come off the pump in these 2 groups and can be removed easily. You will need to remove a few of the 10mm intake plate bolts to get the lines off.
there are 2 bolts below the pump now for the support bracket, they are located facing the rear of the engine below the 6 outlets from the pump head. I forget the size, but these come off next
Next there are 4x15mm nuts that hold the pump to the timing case. Using long extensions and working from the rear of the pump you can get these off, you will drive yourself crazy trying to reach them through the gap between the pump and cylinder head!
Once you remove the nuts the pump will wiggle loose and slide right out. You can reinstall the new pump doing just the opposite. Line up the key way and slide the pump in and start re-assembling.
Couple pointer for reinstall:
-to put the 15mm nuts back on, place a paper towel over the socket and push the nut into the socket, it will make the nut stay in without falling out so you can slide it under/behind the pump to start the nuts.
-put the lock washer and nut back on the gear, tighten the nut until its snug, use a break bar to give it a quick jolt or two to make sure its tight, when it tries to turn the motor over its tight enough
-when putting the fuel lines back on make sure to start both ends at the pump and head before tightening them…if not you will fight trying to line them up if one end is tight already