Injector swap in a 24V - Diesel Truck Forum -
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2005, 04:43 AM Thread Starter
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Injector swap in a 24V

Tools needed;
1/4 drive rachet and exstension (3-6 inch)
3/8 drive rachet and exstension (3-6 inch)
1/4 or 3/8 drive Torque wrench, must have a range of 18-216 inch pounds, the most important # is 89 inch pounds

15, 8, and 10mm sockets

3/4 or 19mm line wrench or equivelant (see photo)

8mm wrench

Needlenose pliers

Small flatbladed screwdriver

Latex or Nitrile gloves

Something to stand on to gain easy access to engine compartment

Shop towels

However much beer you will drink in 2 hours time

To get started, make certain that you can reach the entire engine as comfortably as possible, either stand on something, sit on the radiator (difficult for us fatboys) or let the air out of your front tires.

Disconnect the battery cables (or not, I do for safety) and the charge air inlet tube.

Using a shop rag clean the underside of the body where it hangs over the motor, you can remove the insulation if you want, it is a CS to get back on. Do this to keep dirt and trash out of the motor with the valve cover removed.

Drink a beer and congragulate yourself on a job well done to this point. :blah:

Using the 10mm socket loosen all the valve cover bolts to the point they will move freely. Pick it up as high as you can and work it out towards the passenger side bending the heater hose out of the way. Make certain the gasket either stays on the head or comes with it.

Remove the charge air inlet and APPS housing (Where the inlet pipe goes in and where the throttle cables go to, see picture). Take the APPS and move it out of the way, do not unplug it unless needed (you shouldn't). When removing the charge air inlet be careful of how the intake air heater wires come off and the gaskets on the inlet, you will reuse them all. Use a 15mm for this.

Loosen all injector line clamps and either remove them from the vehicle OR just get them all loose enough that they are not holding anything. 8mm socket and wrench will be used for this.

Drink a beer, cuss engineer who put the clamps where they did issed:

Once all line clamps are loose, loosen all injector tubes at the head using the line wrench. Once they are loosened you should be able to turn them with your hand if you keep the pressure off of them.

Remove one (1) bolt from the valve cover, just push on it from the bottom side and it will pop out. Remove and install injectors one at a time to keep from getting crossed up unless you are confident of no interuptions and keeping everything straight.

Drink a glass of water, no beer until you are buttoning up :shrug:

Don gloves or keep wads of shop towels handy, you are about to get VERY oil covered hands. Start removal of an injector by removing the forward clamp bolt, YOU WILL ONLY REMOVE ONE BOLT, it is the "easy to get to one" towards the front. Remove this bolt and pull/pick up on the clamp block to get it out. Thread the bolt removed from the valve cover into the top of the injector, using the small screwdriver, pry the injector tube nut outwards from the head by catching the threads and prying out wards. Not much, about 1/8 of an inch or so. Use the needlenose pliers to grab the valve cover bolt and pry off of a rocker arm to pop the injector out of its hole. If the injector will not come out easily remove the injector tube from the head or pry it out further to clear the injector. Make certain the copper sealing washer comes out with the old injector, if it does not take a screwdriver that will fit into the washer and use it to remove said washer from the head. Once the old injector is out reverse order for reinstall. Make sure to line up the fuel inlet on the injector with the injector tube, if the injector tube retaining nut does not start easily you do not have then lined up properly. It is sometimes possible to wiggle the injector from side to side with pliers to get it to seat. Reinstall clamp block and bolt, tighten bolt to 89 Inch Pounds (NOT FOOT POUNDS!!!!! YOU WILL BREAK THE BOLT). Repeat this 5 more times and you are done. It will work on all of them, #5&6 are a stone cold one to get to, use a short screwdriver, be careful not to damage the threads.

Couple of notes, change gloves or wipe hands often, makes it a lot easier, keep the dirt out of the motor, be careful what you grab from where.

Drink a beer, you just by gump earned it with #'s 5 & 6 :Thumbup:

Reassemble in reverse order, go ahead and tighten down all injector tube nuts to 28ftlbs, once you have everything back together you will loosen a couple of them again, but only a couple.

The valve cover bolts are tightened to 18 INCH pounds

When reinstalling the APPS assembly tighten the bolts to 105 INCH pounds

The Charge air inlet bolts are torqued to 18 Foot punds (216 inch pounds)

The charge air clamps are torqued to 100 INCH pounds

Once everything is put back together you are ready to bleed lines and fire up, loosen the easy to get to lines, two are enough, three is much preferable. Crank the motor until you have fuel at the lines pretty good, if you have a buddy helping tell him to keep fingers away form there to "feel" for the fuel, he/she could loose them, VERY high pressure. Once you have the injector lines bled retighten them. When you crank the truck again it will run like snot, let the oil pressure come up and GENTLY rev the engine to around 1500 RPM and hold it there until it smooths out, then gently decrease back to idle. Let the truck idle for a bit to make certain there are no leaks or problems.

Finish your beer, there are sober kids in India

On the pics below, in one I am pointing to the APPS (bottom of pic) and the charge air inlet (top of pic).

The two wrenches in my hand serve the same purpose, one is made from a 12 point el cheapo, you guess on the other. On the homemade one, I like it better than the Snap-on for the following reasons, it will grab in more places (12 point vs 6 point), and thinner. I dislike it for the following reasons, more likely to slip from spreading out, be careful with it if you make one, and it is more likely to slip in general (12 point vs 6 point).

Enjoy ya'll, and PM me with any questions you might have, I will endeavor to answer them is possible. I DO NOT know everything about these trucks by a long shot, but like the song goes "I know a little bout it" :Thumbup:
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2005, 05:23 PM
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A crow's foot will help loosen those back injector lines....
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2005, 06:38 PM
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Yeah...but its still a Dawdge.

J/K Billy...nice writeup.

post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2005, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Timbeaux38
A crow's foot will help loosen those back injector lines....
That is the great part about my "homemade" line wrench, the 12 point setup means you can get the wrench to grab a LOT easier. Really makes it easier, IMHO, but you do have to be careful of slippage......tradeoffs :shrug:

Thanks 4cstr, hope it will help you when you come over to the dark side
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2005, 10:42 PM
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I admire your ingenuity...... you could make a bunch of those and sell em' to every 24v owner I know.....
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-28-2005, 12:13 AM
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Send a message via Yahoo to jgendr

Your directions is not as funny as BU's FASS install on SETDR!!!!

:evil: :evil: :evil:

Not enough Beer/ Parrot Bay!!!!

Joe G

01 Dodge 2500 4X4 Auto
RED Quad Cab
DD4's, Hx35, 5" exhaust, Edge Comp, BHAF, Holley Blue Pusher pump. Full Blown Sun Coast Comp Tranny, Laminated Flywheel, 91% ProLoc TQconvertor
last Dyno 437hp, 996tq :Thumbup:
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-28-2005, 02:51 AM Thread Starter
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I want people to be able to finish the job....not pass out from the Parrot Bay!

Timmy (or anybody else) if you want one just drop me a line, whatever the cost of the wrench is plus shipping and I will make you one.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-10-2005, 06:31 PM
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I just use a small 4-5 inch cresent wrench for the back two. After doing them a few times you gotta drink pretty fast to drink a couple of cans, in 35 min I got the truck runnin again, would be less with a 2 inch body lift issed:

y2k Dodge 2500 4x4 QC LB 6spd with some parts from Enterprise engine, Haisley Machine, and sponsered by R&S Performance in Townville Pa. :bow:
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-10-2005, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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True, very true, I have never timed myself after the first time I did it, but it don't take long after you have done it once or twice.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-13-2005, 05:42 AM
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.....Billy....... Timmy.......Timmy werk'n on a truck? :umno: Ya gott'a be kidd'n :roflmao: I can see it now........

Billy: Hey Tim, how'd the install go?

Timmy: Went great, man. It was awsome!

Billy: How long did it take ya?

Timmmy: Well you know, I had stuff come up so I really couldn't tell ya.

Billy: Well shucks Tim, just guess.

Timmy: The first one was wicked cool and I drug my feet a bit make'n sure I had it right. The second one was even faster. Knocked out 3 & 4 ....ok.

Billy: So, the wrench help ya on 5 and 6? Did you keep it clean?

Timmy: Well, I ran to the store after #2. 3 & 4 were a little sloppy.

Billy: ........and?

Timmy: Like I said, 3 & 4 were a little sloppy and the store didn't have mulch so....

Billy: How much dirt you get in it?

Timmy: no dirt

Billy: Good job Tim. long did it take again?

Timmy: Couldn't say. took me a while to clean up.

Billy: Clean up?

Timmy: Yeah, I got something in the injector holes.

Billy: I thought you said, "no dirt" got in em?

Timmy: no dirt......... just sloppy.

Billy: Oh, no dirt? Just sloppy eh? ..........No mulch, just stuff that came up? ......hummm, ya puked didn't Tim, ya puked.

Timmy: Like I said......... it took a while to clean em.

Billy: puked agin! :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:
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