12v injector pull.. - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-14-2007, 02:04 AM Thread Starter
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12v injector pull..

This will be my 3rd injector pull, on a 12v, So here is a list for all you newbee's who are kinda jittery or dont know exactly what to do..

For starters your going to need some tools..
** 10mm wrench, and socket( for the intake horn bolts and little banjo fittings)
**11mm to take off the clamp off the IC tube
** 19mm ( injectors lines off the DV's and injectors)
**15/16( to loosen up the nut holding the injector in)
**8mm ( fuel line holders)
** 1 lug nut,
** one pry bar..
** PB blaster

Step 1: pop the hood disconnect the batterys, and lay out a towel or fender cover so we dont scratch up the paint. get a beer, can of dip, gritts what ever will hold you over for about 2-3 hours..
Step 2: Take off the Name plate on the top of the valve cover (two bolts)
Step 3: Take off one of the clamps holding the IC tube to the intake horn. ( 11mm deep socket)
Step 4: Using the 10mm socket take off the intake horn, ( 6 bolts total 2 long ones 3 short ones and the one holding the oil dip stick) ( make sure not to disturb the grid heater gasket)
Step 5: Take off the two wires, connecting to the grid heater.. (10mm nut mark what side came off what post) DONT DROP IT in the grid like I did.. other wise you will be with out a truck for a while until you can get a new gasket.

* there now all the injector lines are free.. to acess you can beging the fun stuff! * ( see pics for steps 1-5 what it should look like)

Step 6: Crack one of the fuel lines to releave pressure ( I cracked #1 dv, its the easiest one.)
Step 7: if you look on the injectors there will be a little rail running to each injeactor, take it off.. (10mm) and save the copper fittings if your new kit didnt come with them. Now you can let it sit there or you can take it off ( I choose to keep it on.)
Step 8: Now that thats out of the way.. for this step you can either pull the lines off or you can just hold them up out of the way.. I recomend pulling all 6 lines off as a hole its alot easier, So grab that 19mm, and loosen up the Dv lines and the injector lines.
Step 9: Get the 8mm and the little brackets holding ( 4 of them I beleive) the fuel lines from moving go ahead and take those off.. Then there will be a bracket back by the grid heater(2 of them each holding 3 injector lines) ) ( use the 10mm socket and take out those bolts.)
Step 10: Now that the lines are all loose, go ahead and lift them up, ( they will lift off in sets of 3's) place them to the side.
Step 11: Get the 15/16 socket, and place it over the injector onto that nut holding the injector in the block and loosen all 6.
** Now the tricky part....**
There is a few ways you can pull out injecotrs, with Vice grips, and with a pry bar, I suggest if you want to re-use your injectors dont use vice grips

Step 12: Put the lug nut on top of the injector, and screw it all the way to the bottom and then place your pry bar under the lug nut on top of the injector and pry down. They might not come out to easy so keep trying, spray PB blaster on it.. And it should pop right out.. It many take a little effort.. Dont give up or get mad just walk away and come back.. TRUST ME
Step 13: if your using vice grips, put the vice grips on the threads and wiggle and wiggle and pull and did I mention wiggle? Dont waist you time.. But thats how you would do it..
Step 14: Keep pulling out all 6 injectors, once all injectors are out, put them in a sperate pile, so you dont get confuesed with what injector is what..!
Step 15: Clean arround the injector hole, and inside the hole look for forgin objects, once you think its good grab your "proformace" injectors, and put them in.. On the injector there is a little ball that fits into a slot made in the head.. Line up the slot, and put it in.. ( you know your in the slot when the injector hardly moves) ( if its still doing 360* in the hole you missed it! )
Step 16: put the injecotrs in a nice little box in safe storage just incase you want to use them again..!


Then reapeat the steps 1-11.. and put everything back together..
Ahhhttt! were not done..!!

you have to prime the system bcause the fuel lines have been cracked.. so..! the system has lost prime..! find the LP and push the little primer buttom until it gets hard ( like a lawmower) The lift pump is loacted right underneith the fuel filter..

now that its primed crank the truck up, NO more then 30 sec at a time.. while your cranking keep your foot to the floor.. It will run rough for te 1st min or so, After it smoothes out check for leaks, slam the hood, and enjoy the smoke show..:Thumbup:

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Jordan

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03- stroker 6.0 studs and basic BS

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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-14-2007, 02:29 AM
 
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the pvc method works much better
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-14-2007, 02:48 AM
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A couple of notes I'll add. From experience, make sure that you start with a cold motor. It sucks working on one thats just been shut off. They get hot, and inevitably takes considerably more time.

Two, at least on 96 and later california trucks you have to remove the EGR system.

a 15/16th deep socket makes getting the keeper nut off the injector a lot easier.

Also, my prybar of choice is a superbar. They work wonderfully, I've pulled injectors that hadn't been out in almost 200k and they didn't take too much effort.

Dbogo. Whats the pvc method?
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-14-2007, 10:37 AM
 
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take a 1 1/2 inch piece of 1 inch pvc pipe slide it over the injector and thread the lugnut on the top, then tighten down the lugnut and it will pull the injector right out
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-15-2007, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBogo
take a 1 1/2 inch piece of 1 inch pvc pipe slide it over the injector and thread the lugnut on the top, then tighten down the lugnut and it will pull the injector right out
Wait WHHAA? put the PVC over the injector.. then put the lug on then pull up? im so lost lol

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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-15-2007, 07:47 PM
 
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once all the lines are off and the hold down nut is off, put the piece of PVC over the injector, thread the lug nut on, you may want to put a washer over the injector and on top of the pvc because i went through 2 pieces of pvc but then again i used conduit which is not as strong, and tighten down the lug nut, as you tighten down the lugnut it cannot move except for spinning, something has to move up or down, the something is the injector, it will pull the injector up, give it a try, its much easier then trying to pry those things out
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-17-2007, 04:35 AM Thread Starter
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It sounds like it would work.. OR we could get and injector puller and make life easy

Jordan

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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-22-2007, 01:45 AM
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That is a pretty good idea Dbogo.

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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-22-2007, 02:38 AM
 
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yea it works pretty well, and i had some of the conduit laying around so it was free as opposed to spending $50+ on an injector puller
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-22-2007, 08:01 AM
 
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The PVC method didn't work so well for me. The pipe would mushroom out without the washer. And getting the pipe the perfect size is critical or you bottom out to soon or can't get the nut on the injector. I didn't have a big enough washer so when I went to the hardware store I just got a 6" long 9/16 bolt and a really big nut that slide freely on the bolt but wouldn't go part the head.. Then I put the bolt through the nut and screwed it into a lug nut. Then I could use the nut as a slide pull. For the back two I just used a 4" 14 mm bolt. That worked for me.
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