Torque plate install, with pics!!! - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-19-2005, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
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Torque plate install, with pics!!!

Installation of Torque Plate

Tools needed: 10 mm deep well socket
11 mm deep well socket
8 mm deep well socket
flat head screw driver
hammer
chisel

1. Park vehicle in a suitable work location, set parking brake, place automatic transmissions in park, manual transmissions in neutral, and open hood

2. Use the 11 mm deep well socket to loosen the lower clamp on the upper intake connection hose and slide the lower clamp off of the hose.

3. Remove the six bolts holdinng the air intake connection and clipstick tube in place using the 10 mm six point socket...NOTE: observe that these bolts are different lengths.(figure #1)

4. Remove the intake manifold connection and hose as a unit, taking care NOT to damage the gasket. This gasket can normally be reused, however, if torn, replace the gasket with a new one.

5. Remove the AFC housing assembly by removing the 4 screws (2 are 8 mm and 1 is standard flat head) including the factory break off screw with a rounded head and no screwdriver, Allan head or TORX slot. The hammer and sharp chisel can be used to remove the break of screw by making a notch in the outside diameter of the head, then tap the screw with light blows counter clockwise to remove. (figure #2)

6. Pry the fuel shutdown solenoid bracket away from the AFC housing.

7. Lift the AFC housing, moving it out of the way toward the rear of the engine. (figure #2)

8. Place the installation guide plate provided with the Torque Plate over the torque curve plate. This plate is used to position the new torque curve plate. The guide plate only fits one way. (figure #3)

9. Leave one of the torque plate screws tight while removing the other screw. Place the removed screw into one of the corners of the guide plate. Make sure the guide plate is slid as far as possible toward the rear of the engine so that there is zero clearance between the front edge of the torque curve plate flange and the installation guide. (figure #3)

10. Remove the other torque plate screw and install it in the other corner to help hold the guide plate in place.

11. Remove the stock curve plate using pliers or your fingers. Save the stock plate to permit converting the engine back to stock

12. Place the new torque curve plate into the same position that the stock one formerly occupied. (figure #3)

13. Install the torque plate screws one by one, tightening them down. Then remove the installation guide. (figure #4)

14. Reinstall the AFC housing, using the new flat head screw to replace the break off screw, making sure the fuel shutdown solenoid is in place. Tighten down all four corners. Then reinstall air intake, making sure all clamps and bolts are tight. (figure #1)

15. Install the turbo boost control (the small brass elbow supplied with the torque plate), into the 1/8" pipe port for waste gate control fitting in the place of the barbed hose fitting on the back of the AFC housing.


If the vehicle is still slow to accelerate or has too much smoke:

Adjust the AFC housing using an 8 mm Allen wrench. Take care NOT to lose the sealing washer under the plug. Removing the plug exposes a star wheel, withich changes the quickness of fueling response to boost.

If acceleration is weak, with minimal boost, remove the 8mm headplug and rotate the top of the star wheel toward the engine a few clicks.

If the vehicle has heavy black smoke or initial acceleration, remove the 8mm headplug and rotate the top of the star wheel away from the engine a few clicks.

Reinstall the large plug with sealing washer and test drive the vehicle again. It may take repeated attempts to get the adjustments set.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-28-2006, 11:22 AM
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Talking factory break away screw

I had to remove the fuel line spreader bar to get to the factory break away screw.I also had no luck with a #15 torque bit or chisel on the side to remove this screw,I hit straight down on it with a SHARP chisel enough to get a flat head screw driver on it.That one screw was half the work of the whole job.It was well worth it though.:
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 05:23 AM
 
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dont know my torque plate

i have a question, i baught a 12 valve and it has some work done to it but the only thing i can figure out is that it is exhaust, boost elbow and has to have some kinda torque plate in it but i dont know what it is. is there a way to distiguish between stock, aftermarket and different stage torque plates?
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-21-2007, 01:22 PM
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The stock one will have a long part number, and the aftermarket one will have a simple stamp of its number(0-13). Usually they stamp it on the top, where you can easily see it.

Dale

my daily driver:67 F100, 300 4V, cammed, 4 spd.
or, 08 Subaloser Forester, 2" lift.
work rigs: 94 IH 4900, DT466(originally 230hp), #0 fuel plate, tighter gov springs, 22* timing
or, 06 IH 7400, DT466E, 300hp


My Low Buck fuel rate site:
www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-28-2007, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
i have a question, i baught a 12 valve and it has some work done to it but the only thing i can figure out is that it is exhaust, boost elbow and has to have some kinda torque plate in it but i dont know what it is. is there a way to distiguish between stock, aftermarket and different stage torque plates?
https://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...7&d=1168898871

#0 plate: All out fuel. No hold backs. The most fuel you can have at all RPM ranges, high EGT's (without upgraded turbo)

#10: Starts out weaker in the fueling curve, gets pretty strong and backs off in the top end to save on EGT's.

#100: Starts out like a 10, ends as a 0. Keeps low end fueling down but as the RPM's come up it's got all the power of a 0.

i hope that answered your questions..

Jordan

95-dodge 2500 built to the hill... - sold to litle brother
03- stroker 6.0 studs and basic BS

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-13-2007, 05:22 AM
 
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yeah it does thanks. one thing though, would you recomend doing a 0 plate or 10. i just want lots of power and smoke is tine too. i will have an egt guage soon and water injection so i can watch it as well as keep it down. there is however only a stock turbo so yeah.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-13-2007, 10:05 PM
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The#0 plate from what i know and have read is the most smokiest!,and ageressive.Im happy with it.!:Thumbup:

Jordan

95-dodge 2500 built to the hill... - sold to litle brother
03- stroker 6.0 studs and basic BS

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2007, 09:50 PM
 
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so if i were to take the one in my truck out an dmachine it flat to a 0 i would have the most bang? but it wont hurt the engine right with a 0 plate
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2007, 10:00 PM
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Yep, the 0 plate is about as far as you can go without removing the plate entirely. It will hurt the engine if the EGT's get too high, or if you flog it when it's cold(engine temp).

Dale

my daily driver:67 F100, 300 4V, cammed, 4 spd.
or, 08 Subaloser Forester, 2" lift.
work rigs: 94 IH 4900, DT466(originally 230hp), #0 fuel plate, tighter gov springs, 22* timing
or, 06 IH 7400, DT466E, 300hp


My Low Buck fuel rate site:
www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-16-2007, 04:53 AM
 
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thanks, i think i will take it out and flatten it
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