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Sheppard Diesel SD-3

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#1 ·
Well I was having some fun with my SD-3 over the 4th of July holiday and then she started knocking the night before the Saturday morning parade. Won't bore everyone with the details but it is an annual event that we as a family look forward too and we pause to remember Grandpa.

Since there were only 1209 of these made and the total number surviving is much less I wanted to chronicle it for others to find. You can find out more about the history of RH Sheppard on their website and also there is a Sheppard Diesel club but they don't keep up with the website. I am a club member and can get you in contact with the right folks if your looking for information. Sheppard made 4 tractors SD-1, SD-2, SD-3 and SD-4 and made 10, 212, 1209, 177 in respective order. Many of you will know them best for the power steering gear boxes they make for trucks. What is interesting is the SD-2 and 3 use a Ross steering gear and then Sheppard developed a power steering system for the SD-4. About that time the tractor business proved to be a dead end so they ended the Diesel engine manufacturing and focused just on power steering gear boxes.

I pulled it apart today and as I feared the front cylinder (they didn't number as far as I can tell) has a bad piston wrist pin bearing. Not the end of the world but your looking at something that you don't pick up parts for at the dealer. I have a head gasket coming from the man who is pretty much the key guy for these tractors. Later this week (ran out of time again) I will pull it out and see if a machine shop can make me new bushings. Trying to determine if I should pull all three and just bite the bullet or fix just the sloppy one. The other two seem pretty tight.

Serial number is 3-1175 and was built in 1950 and is considered fairly early production. Sheppard counted by 5 on serial number to deceive competitors about how many tractors they were actually selling.

The diesel engine is a simple design and uses power cells or a chamber that the fuel is injected into rather than directly at the piston. You will notice that in the photos of the head. It is a low pressure injection system and when running does not give off the normal noise most diesel engines make. I will also post some photos of the last club show. Enjoy.

Wes
 

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#2 ·
Photos from 2013 Sheppard Show

Some Photos from show in Bucyrus, OH
 

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#3 ·
Cool pics.:) Never seen a Sheppard Diesel in a Farmall tractor. The Sheppard Diesel must have been ahead of its time, it uses head studs instead of bolts.
 
#4 ·
Sheppard made a kit for Farmall tractors - mostly M's that was promoted as a 1 day job to cut fuel savings in half. They are rare and very valuable. Several of my studs have been replaced by bolts but they made a sturdy engine most of them were used in marine engines and generator sets. The fuel injection system was pretty basic and didn't prove to be very reliable. Would love to find a welder generator with a 2 cylinder diesel on it.
 
#6 ·
Well lesson 1 learned today. The connecting rod will not clear the sleeve and pulling the sleeve is not something I'm going to attempt. So I will be splitting it and pulling the engine. That was a bummer but does answer my question about replacing all three wrist pin bushings- you betcha it's getting done. I will post pics as I go. Went to the steam/ tractor show today near home and was just a spectator :thumbdown

The connecting rod crank bearings look good on the front piston and I believe were all replaced when it was restored.

Stings a little every time I scrape the paint off a bolt or part taking something apart.
 
#7 ·
It awlays hurts to scratch the paint on anything restored. Looking forward to the pics of the progress.
 
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#9 ·
Thanks Bob, next weekend the work begins.
 
#10 ·
Teardown of Sheppard Diesel SD-3

Well made some solid progress today. She is torn down and the connecting rods are off to the machine shop for some TLC. It appears the culprit was some corrosion of the wrist pin which wore the bushing (bearing sees full rotation and bushing only partial rotation correct?) The connecting rods were all rebuilt about 12 years ago. I fear some oil diluted by fuel, condensation and years of the same oil in the crankcase did some damage. Only one wrist pin shows this "worm tracking and the other two are clean" So I would appreciate any insight into this phenomenon. Sorry I didn't get a photo of it since I sent them off with my Dad before getting a photo. The tractor has has 15w40 Rotella in it for 10 plus years and I had changed it earlier this year with 15w-40 Delvac. After looking over the bearings I am going to put 30w in it like was required in 1950 (straight weight and non-detergent). It doesn't run that hot barely 160 on the temp gauge so I think the 15w40 is a bad idea. Debating on trying to replace the mains and connecting rod bearings. The stamps in the mains show 50 or 52 on several so I think they are the original mains. Connecting rod bearings are marked 00. If someone can confirm for me that these are date codes on Fm (Federal Mogul) bearings I would appreciate it. So far no other suprises or broken bolts just waiting now for the machine shop work (and the bill) so I can put her back together. If anyone has a good access to Federal Mogul bearings please PM me I am interested in seeing if the mains are still available and prices on the connecting rod bearings.

Photos of the work so far.

Wes
 

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#11 ·
Sheppard SD-3

More pictures
 

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#12 ·
And some more - even got one with my "Supervisor"
 

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#14 ·
Bob here are some photos I appreciate the help is it possible it is listed as R.H Sheppard in your book? RH Sheppard was the actual name of the company.

Anyways thanks for looking!

The connecting rod bearings are newer and all numbers are stamped I was told the 00 is the manufacture year. The mains vary and it is likely they were salvaged from other engines or replaced as needed. The tractor was built in 1950

The last number is the 20902 Fm 55 it is tough to make out. The 121 DCL is the flywheel end bearing the other 3 are similar. Thrust bearings are two brass half moons that go on 2nd bearing in from the flywheel main and only go on the block side not the cap.
 

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#15 ·
Ok so 1085CPA (connecting rod bearing #) crosses and makes reference to Detroit Diesel connecting rod bearing at FP Diesel This makes sense there is no way Sheppard was having bearings designed exclusively for them so what would I need to determine to start figuring out if the mains would cross to a Detroit as well?
 
#16 ·
Nope rebuilder converted the rods to Detroit Diesel 2-71 bearings. Doesn't look like there is a simple solution to the main bearings. Both options require Align Boring. Gonna call Federal Mogul tomorrow and see if I can make someone laugh when I inquire about some main bearings that have probably been obsolete for 40 years.
 
#18 ·
Bob, looks like my best option for the mains is to convert to Detroit 2-71 mains. Does your Clevite book list the dimensions of the bearings Standard would be fine? Or any others following this if you have a FM book can you post dimensions? Going to talk to a machine shop about align boring the block and just want to have an idea how much they need to cut for the new bearings to start talking costs. Connecting rods are out for rebuild in Fort Wayne, IN for bushing and new wrist pins also just got new bushings from McMaster Carr for the valve rocker arms and found some new FEderal mogul connecting rod bearings on eBay pretty reasonable (already converted to DD 2-71) Might as well bite the bullet since its torn down. Going back to 30 weight after this is all done these old engines were not meant for 15w-40 multi viscosity as some have told me. Sheppard recommended 30w non-detergent for summer oil. In 1950.
 
#19 ·
Just an update and question. I took it to the machine shop today to have the mains align bored so I can use Detroit 2-71 connecting rod bearings (1085 CPA) for mains and connecting rod bearings. There is about .060 that has to be machined out to go with DD bearings. Crank will be ground and new connecting rod pins and bushings. All new bearings that i got NOS on Ebay all Federal mogul and i did .010 on the mains and .020 on the rods hopefully lucked out and it will grind otherwise i get to buy full price new ones. Hope to have it back from the shop in Fort Wayne in a couple of weeks. Made the drive down their since they have worked on these engines in the past and are familiar with them.

So my question is - I have never technically gone this far into an engine what tips tricks does everyone recommend for reassembly. What assembly lube, best ways to degrease it before assembly, etc. etc. luckily I have the torque specs for most of the fasteners and general information about getting it back together.

It will get 30w oil and I'm still considering non- detergent since the engine and filtering system was not designed for detergent type oil. I believe some of the corrosion problem on fhe pins and crank is because it had 15w40 in it for 10 years and was never run much and usually not very hot since ther was no thermostat and ran poorly due to injection pump issues.

Promise more pictures when I start putting it back together and less :blahblah:blahblah

Wes
 
#20 ·
If you are going to run it right away just assemble with 30W engine oil. If it's going to set a spell, use white #105 engine assembly lube as it's like a soft jelly. It should be clean from the machine shop but clean dust free rags and Stoddard solvent are always good to wipe it down with.
 
#23 ·
Made a little progress today got the camshaft out and the injector pump off. Everything is out now so I can clean it out and get all the cast iron chips out from the line boring of the mains. Bronze bushings on the pump are worn so I will get some new ones machined. Camshaft and other bearings look good but going to take some measurements tomorrow. Hoping to have it reassembled and running again by Thanksgiving, the cold weather and rain are not helping with progress. Work bench is at 75% capacity. Planning to degrease and clean tomorrow.
 

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#29 ·
I say your making good progress considering you have such a lack of replacement parts. :beerdrink
 
#30 ·
Weather worked out today and got it cleaned up. Re-assembly begins this week as time permits. Some custom parts are still needed but luckily I have some machinists in the family. Gonna make the smaller gaskets and use black silicon for the bigger areas. I think Thanksgiving is possible to be back in operation.
 
#31 · (Edited)
i decided to get new rings for it even though the sleeves are not beautiful. I got a homemade book a while back from the main man on these engines. He has found many parts that can be used to rebuild these engines over the years. Unfortunately it doesn't have a replacement sleeve for the 4 inch bore but does list a CAT sleeve for the 4.25 bore that can be machined to fit. My engine is a 4 inch of course.

Rings are for a Massey Fergueson 4 cylinder and then you need to buy extra oil rings since each piston has two.

Part numbers:
Hastings Kit 2C7664
Hastings Oil Rings 4 qty 03167 and 2 qty 35218

I am honing the cylinders to clean them up but they are not going to be perfect. Probably going to give the old guy in IN a call and see if there are any sleeves that would fit. Any thing that would definitely would need to be customized.

One question I do have is any recommendations on a sealant for the head gasket. Same man has them made by a company in TX and they have a fire ring (Originals did not) but there are some imperfections in the top of the block where someone dinged it when pulling a sleeve. I bought two head gaskets to keep one on the shelf but don't want to have any leaks. Parts guy recommended a gasket maker/sealant that is anaerobic so it doesn't need air to cure.

http://www.permatex.com.au/_product...ers/Permatex+Anaerobic+Gasket+Maker-1287.aspx


I was also thinking maybe some aviation sealant from permatex. Let me know any thoughts. There are several small areas that could use a little extra sealing in my opinion.
 

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#32 ·
i decided to get new rings for it even though the sleeves are not beautiful. I got a homemade book a while back from the main man on these engines last year. He has found many parts that can be used to rebuild these engines over the years. Unfortunately it doesn't have a replacement sleeve for the 4 inch bore but does list a CAT sleeve for the 4.25 bore that can be machined to fit. My engine is a 4 inch of course.

Rings are for a Massey Fergueson 4 cylinder and then you need to buy extra oil rings since each piston has two.

Part numbers:
Hastings Kit 2C7664
Hastings Oil Rings 4 qty 03167 and 2 qty 35218

I am honing the cylinders to clean them up but they are not going to be perfect. Probably going to give the old guy in IN a call and see if there are any sleeves that would fit. Any thing that would definitely would need to be customized.

One question I do have is any recommendations on a sealant for the head gasket. Same man has them made by a company in TX and they have a fire ring (Originals did not) but there are some imperfections in the top of the block where someone dinged it when pulling a sleeve. I bought two head gaskets to keep one on the shelf but don't want to have any leaks. Parts guy recommended a gasket maker/sealant that is anaerobic so it doesn't need air to cure.

http://www.permatex.com.au/_product...ers/Permatex+Anaerobic+Gasket+Maker-1287.aspx


I was also thinking maybe some aviation sealant from permatex. Let me know any thoughts. There are several small areas that could use a little extra sealing in my opinion.
www.powerboresleeves.com and talk to Brendt. They will make any sleeve you need. I'd deck the block to ensure it's true a few thousandths and if still questionable, purchase a sheet of meehanite gray iron to make a spacer plate. A little extreme and some cost involved but it will hold up. Fire rings without scoring the cylinder heads really won't do much good, (IMO) but you may mean support rings around the circumference of the cylinder bore.

I'm terrible about tearing into something and sticking to the original plan to keep costs in check. Really hate to do something twice so usually absorb the cost as lessons learned. Then make the same mistake again......
 
#34 ·
But spending the money now means that you can run in many many more parades and the occasional vintage tractor pull.
 
#37 ·
I had to laugh since all this work leads me to my next issue of the High/Low gear box slipping out of gear. Sheppard used a ****shutt rear end and had the bright idea of putting a lever on the Hi-lo you can reach from the tractor seat. ****shutt didn't do that and for a good reason. Farmers used to switch from Hi to lo under load and tear the gear box up. I think I convinced myself last night I willl tear into that since the engine will be a while before I am done. This project looks like it will be creeping into 2014. :damnit
 
#38 ·
Just wanted to share some tips on the assembly process. I'll Second the Lubriplate #105 assembly lube as the best for bearings, also use it like you mean it, it won't hurt anything. I've used 105 for 15 years now with great success even on engines that sit for some time prior to startup. 105 stays where you put it and does not dry up or run off.

If you use the original cam and lifters you can use 105 on the cam lobes because the cam is broken in. If you use a new cam and lifters or just new lifters, be sure to use a proper moly based cam lube, should be dark grey and pasty.

For the rings, do not use engine oil, it burns into the cross hatching and glazes the cylinder wall. This leads to extended break in and ring seating time, and poor ring sealing. I use WD-40 during the assembly process. Spray the cylinder down really well, and spray the piston and rings before you put the ring compressor on. Everything will go together nicely and the rings will seat properly in the first hour of run time. If the engine will sit for an extended period of time after assembly every 30 days or so spray a little WD-40 in the intake port or through the glow plug hole of a cylinder that is at bottom dead center and crank the engine over by hand.

The final thing I want to add is to look for a good quality break in oil additive like one from comp cams. Basically it's a high zinc phosphorous load to replicate the oil that you would've used to start this engine back in the 1950s. This is a final and important step to ensure that during the break in process the bearings and the camshaft are properly protected. I would also suggest keeping some of that additive on hand and using it to fortify the oil for future oil changes.

And this is a very cool project by the way!


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#39 · (Edited)
Thank you! I'm a novice mechanic so the tips/ best practices are appreciated. Working on pulling the sleeves but slow going with limited time for fun. My first make shift puller didn't yield much and my quick( not really so quick) attempt at chopping up a gear puller and modifying it hasn't gone far either. Gonna pick up some steel in the morning and make a better version from info I found in a thread on TDG. My current version isn't pulling straight but it seems like it should budge with the force on it.

I got the big tube of 105 and always have lots of WD-40 on hand. I like your comment about glow plug holes. Sheppard came up with a weird way to help assist with starts since there are no glow plugs. There is a heater coil in the intake and a pump plunger on the dash. When you crank it your supposed to pump it and spray fuel on the coils to "start a fire". Most people pulled it apart and just used starting fluid. Hard to find an engine with a coil intact. The plunger fed off the bottom of the fuel filter and had a tendency to introduce air into the fuel system. I have seen some restored with an IHC ether kit tucked up under the hood.

Next step is pull the sleeves and get some new ones made. Hopefully I can post some pics tomorrow of sleeves pulled out if all goes as planned.
 
#40 ·
Go get a piece of 5" schedule 80 pipe cut 3 or 4 pieces with the final one about 1" longer than the sleeve. Cut a round piece of 1/2" plate to put on to the top of the pipe, you can put 3 or 4 tabs around the plate to center it on the pipe. Use a length of 1" or bigger all thread and another 1/2" round plate cut to lift the sleeve from the bottom.

I've used the same style puller effectively on bushings and other projects for 20 years now. Just needs to be sturdier for your purpose.


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#41 ·
Well today was a success. $60 in materials and some quality time with my grinder, cutting torch and welding machine - custom sleeve puller done. All three sleeves are out and the project inches forward a little more. Going to send a sleeve to Backslap's source to have 3 new ones made. I will also have to locate some new O-rings for them. 50 years of gunk fell out as each was removed it is amazing how much stuff can build up in there.

Good call on the the 1" threaded rod and heavy wall pipe - my last attempts with stuff I had laying around was a waste of time. This version was nice and robust worked like a charm. Luckily i have a place nearby that sells drops so you can pick up material pretty cheap by the pound and they have a good selection.
 

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#42 ·
#43 ·
There is a lot of junk in the block.
 
#44 ·
The best and main reason a wet liner engine should have the sleeves pulled at any rebuild. Doesn't really matter if inframe, or out. You cannot usually get to all the "nooks & crannies" by even pulling the welsh/welch/frost/freeze/ or core plugs when cleaning everything up. Also allows the sealing rings to be replaced at the same time. These items are cheap in comparison to doing the job again.
 
#45 ·
My new liners are on order and just waiting till I get them to move forward. I need to get new O-rings for them and was looking at McMaster-Carr catalog. Any one have a suggestion on material type normal wet cylinder sleeves use?

Thanks,
 
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#46 ·
Probably best to go with a silicone based "O" ring composition although nitrile will work and was probably original. Not much money difference for the amount you require on the project.

I'd would work with a tool and rubber supplier for direct answers. I use a very good supply house and think they will ship. If not, I'll grab what you need. I'll pm you the vendor.
 
#47 ·
Well the guy in brown shorts brought me a present today. New sleeves from Powerbore cylinder sleeves. Great company to work with copied my sample and sent me 3 new ones at a pretty reasonable price. Thanks Backslap for the advice. Now just need a bit of warm weather to start on the rebuild. Hopefully she will breathe fire again by mid April. Time to get some more items on order from mcmaster Carr.
 

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#48 ·
Hmmm, must be quite warm up there to be wearing shorts. Been down here I'll bet he'd of been wearing a couple layers of clothes to keep warm.

Glad the sleeves order went through alright. Interesting project I'm anxious to see together. Although you probably already know, match mark the sleeves and have the block bores sized appropriately for the sleeves. They purposely leave a little meat to take off for final fitment and truing.
 
#51 ·
Progress is slow but I got some work done today. Working on getting the pump back together after having new brass bearings made.

One issue I am having is trying to source some copper washers for sealing the injection system. The pump is Sheppard design and I am working thru it again to get is balanced as best as I can. The engines were balanced when new using pyrometers on each exhaust under load. Collectors are always on the hunt for an original set of pyrometers.

The copper seal or washer I need is basically .570 OD, .375 ID and .060 to .080 thick. The valve threads in and holds the spring and check ball but the seat is very narrow and the washer can't hold the spring down or it gets in a bind.

Any thoughts on a source for specialty copper washers is appreciated. Mcmaster carr doesn't have anything and I found a company online called Superieor washer I sent a request to. In the past I tweaked some hardware store ones but they tend to make small shards when tightening down that get in the fuel system. I had discovered a small flake in the past got to the injector and wasn't allowing it to seal properly. This isn't a modern day pump it is pretty basic and crude setup by today's standards.
 

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#58 ·
Well this week is work on slow moving project week - aka vacation.

New custom sleeves are in

Pistons cleaned up and new rings installed

Adjusted all of the bearing tangs by filing new grooves in the mains and removing tang on connecting rod and punching the tang while bearing in place.

The bearings are not original now since I converted to Detroit Diesel bearing setup. The connecting rods and mains were bored to fit the new bearings.

I had to soft solder the back sides of the thrust bearings since nothing is available and they were in great shape just needed to account for the new radius after line boring the mains. I built up the flange and hand filed to fit. Sorry forgot to take pictures of that.

Goal is to get the majority of it buttoned up tomorrow and keep working towards putting it back in during the coming weeks. I have to finish putting the injection pump back together but need some room back on the workbench for that. I also need to pull the Hi-lo apart on the transmission but refused to tear anything else apart till something starts going back together. It likes to slip out and I need to resolve that too before the engine is lifted back in.
 

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#59 ·
Well the engine is all buttoned up and ready to go back in. I tore into the HI-LO box and found the fork that moves the gear/shaft lock was worn/bent so I squeezed it together some and built up the contact points with some MIG weld. Filed to fit and put it back together. Hopefully get my second pair of hands and borrow the neighbors loader tractor to put it back together next Friday or Saturday. Only took a year………….

Looking forward to firing it up soon.
 

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