proper way to cool off tractor - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2007, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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proper way to cool off tractor

What is the proper way to cool a tractor down when hot? I thought that is should be stopped and left running. Someone else says it needs shut off asap when hot and let cool down that way? Which is right

01 2500 Duramax/ZF6,returned to daily driver590/995
03 3500 Duramax/Ally S/C IV EFI Live {Brothers truck}
04 3500 Duramax/Ally EFI Live,feed truck with 3 bale Hydra-Bed,very sick trans
06 4500 Duramax/Ally 4x4 Monroe,EFI Live,Danville turbo, CM flatbed
11 2500 Duramax/Ally 4x4 H&S tuned and deleted {GF's truck}
13 3500 Duramax/Ally 4x4 stock for a very short time
Some Green Equipment and a heard of Black Angus cows
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2007, 12:56 AM
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I've always been told to stop and let it idle, especially if it has a turbo on it.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2007, 01:14 AM
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THE PROPER WAY a ccording to the post on the jd 4840, we have (sticker on the cab post) is to run it 800-1000 rpm for 5 min. I believe the reasoning behind this is to a get the fan spinnin a bit faster but mostly around idel oil pressure when hot may be 20psi, bump the rpm up just a bit and it jumps to 40-60. This helps the turbo get proper lubrication and more of it to cool it quicker.

1996 Gmc k2500 4x4 6.5 turbo diesel, with mods Blew the head gasket, put all new heads, valves, injecotrs gaskets etc on the truck only to get it together and find out it had no oil pressure, and sounded horrible (pry a spun bearing). SOLD
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2007, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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That was kind of my thought. The machine in question was a non-turbo swather with a 4BT Cummins.

01 2500 Duramax/ZF6,returned to daily driver590/995
03 3500 Duramax/Ally S/C IV EFI Live {Brothers truck}
04 3500 Duramax/Ally EFI Live,feed truck with 3 bale Hydra-Bed,very sick trans
06 4500 Duramax/Ally 4x4 Monroe,EFI Live,Danville turbo, CM flatbed
11 2500 Duramax/Ally 4x4 H&S tuned and deleted {GF's truck}
13 3500 Duramax/Ally 4x4 stock for a very short time
Some Green Equipment and a heard of Black Angus cows
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2007, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01duramax6spd
That was kind of my thought. The machine in question was a non-turbo swather with a 4BT Cummins.
Can't be a 4BT if doesn't have a turbo.

Anyways, you should always allow equipment to cool by letting them idle before shutting them down. Shutting tractors right down was one reason farmers didn't like diesels when they first started hitting the farm tractor market. They would just shut it off like the old gas tractor after plowing or pulling it hard and the heads would warp/crack. The farmers thought they were too expensive and not reliable, because of all the failures. Slowly they figured out that it was mainly because of their own doing.
post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2007, 07:04 PM
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The 2870 had a sticker saying not to shut down until the EGT was down to 600 (if my memory is correct). Anyway cool it down by letting it idle.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2007, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bouncer
Can't be a 4BT if doesn't have a turbo.

.
It's a 3.9L and to the best of my knowledge that's a 4bt. Bread trucks have
4bt's for sure and they aren't all turbo charged.

Anyway I'm refering to overheating not high egt's,if that makes a difference.

01 2500 Duramax/ZF6,returned to daily driver590/995
03 3500 Duramax/Ally S/C IV EFI Live {Brothers truck}
04 3500 Duramax/Ally EFI Live,feed truck with 3 bale Hydra-Bed,very sick trans
06 4500 Duramax/Ally 4x4 Monroe,EFI Live,Danville turbo, CM flatbed
11 2500 Duramax/Ally 4x4 H&S tuned and deleted {GF's truck}
13 3500 Duramax/Ally 4x4 stock for a very short time
Some Green Equipment and a heard of Black Angus cows
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2007, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01duramax6spd
It's a 3.9L and to the best of my knowledge that's a 4bt. Bread trucks have
4bt's for sure and they aren't all turbo charged.

Anyway I'm refering to overheating not high egt's,if that makes a difference.
Not that it really matters about the motor and I know what you are referring to.

The 4BT deciphers as such.

4 = 4cyl

B = B Series engine

T = Turbo

Now maybe they are running 4BT's in the trucks minus the turbo, but I would think that would make for a smokey, poor running, engine. :shrug:
post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2007, 02:16 AM
 
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Let it run above an idle as long as the temp. drops and your not loseing water
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-16-2007, 02:59 AM
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If you catch the overheating early when it is on the way up and the steam has just started - drop it to idle for 30 sec to a min, if it is turbo charged, if not shut down when you see it.

If it starts to gain power and smell oily, chances are fair that there is damage.
Shutting down instantly and rolling the starter for 3-4 seconds at 1 min intervals until the pyrometer drops below 600 helps limit the damage.

If it is losing power and stinking of oil there is a real chance that it will volenter to stop and may not roll to pump oil after it is shut down.

It is probably worth a set of limit gages that alarm and then shut down when in the field with wind and dust while you need to pay attention the other things.

The absolute thing is the risk of putting water into the hot engine, I have seen the block go over 300F and start back up and go to work when the leak is fixed. I have all so seen a head crack when the water came from the hot water heater and the engine had coolant in it. Unless the hail is in sight the hour or 2 that it takes to get the temp down is worth while for the safety of the castings. Aluminum is much worse about changing dimension from thermal shock.

keydl

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