Kubota hard to start and blows alot of black smoke - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-22-2007, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Kubota hard to start and blows alot of black smoke

I have a Kubota L345dt with a 4 cyl model V 1501-DA, I hold the glow plugs for 30 second then turn the starter but it does not catch right away so I keep pushing it with the starter. It wants to go on its own but after a few revolutions it stalls and I get what looks like a mist/black smoke, I have to do the glow plug and try it again. sometimes it works sometimes I have to do it 3 or 4 times or more. And when warm it likes to blow black smoke when given the throttle. Is it running too rich? Is there a way to adjust the fuel? Oh yeh it has a new air filter new fuel filter. I don't have a compression tester so i don't know what the compression is. but it does seem to run smooth on all four cyls. When warm it starts right up.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-23-2007, 03:29 AM
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Has it got a prime pump on it?

Do the glow plugs have voltage when measured at the glow plug terminal?

If it has a prime pump, operate it before trying to start. If it starts normally after using the prime pump you have an air leak in the fuel system.

keydl

93 Dodge /CTD, IC, 518, club cab LE, BHAF, KDP fixed, kelderman air ride
81 Isuzu /C223na, 5spd
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-23-2007, 03:48 AM
 
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Check the glow plugs individually. Un-hook the power lead on each glowplug and test each with an OHM meter. I am not sure what their value should be but a Mercedes glow plug is about 17OHMS as I remember. Check them on the lowest resistance scale. If you don't have an OHM meter, pull each out and test with 12volts. They should start to heat up immediately. As Above said, check that you have 12 volts to each plug.
Is your fuel OK?? Any water??
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-23-2007, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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voltage at the glow plugs. # 1,2,3 I get 8.5v and #4 I get 9.1v when all the wires are connected. Disconnected the wire coming to the glow plugs and i got 12.5v. The 4 plugs have 2.2 OHM on a 200 scale. No prime pump on this one. I can't see water in the tank because of the red die but I will get a new filter and drain the old one and see.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-23-2007, 06:33 PM
 
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They Are Very Fussy About Clean Good Quality Fuel. I Would Test Glow Plugs And If They Are All Good Test The Injectors
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-23-2007, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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How do I test the injectors?
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-24-2007, 02:39 AM
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Pull them out and hook them to a 'pop stand' that will apply pressure to check for leaking, spray pattern and pop pressure.

My Isuzu pops at 1700psi and when 1500 psi is applied should not drip fuel but at + or - 5% should open the pintle and spray on an even pattern to the side.
Others spray cone and pressures vary with the brand and appliction.

With the voltages my next step would be the relay, if it is seperate from the controler. Or put a jumper in for 12 v to the glow plugs. The resistance readings are the same on all glow plugs - the do not normally fail as a set and any continuity is most often a working plug. Things change at about 20 F so if they are marginal and the temps go that low get the specs.

If you can see water, take a thin tube ( aquarium air hose works well) and put it in the water bubble and apply vacuum to the hose. Poking a couple of holes in a jar lid makes a catch container. Diesel is not recomended for beverage.

Black smoke when you bump the throttle on a non turbo is normal, black smoke when you load the engine at less than operating rpm is normal, it should start blowing smoke as it drops below the peak torque.

The failure to bump off on glow plug but to do a good job starting after first start has a pretty short list to look at. leaks that drop the fuel available at start, glow plugs and cranking rpm.

If you have compressed air you can disconnect the fuel return and clamp off to the tank and then put 3-4 pounds air pressure in the tank and see if the fuel comes out the return fitting instantly or sputters first. If the fuel system is liquid full the fuel from the return will be smooth, if it has air it will not be smooth and steady.

The little ones often have a lever on the side of the lift pump for priming. When I see 'crank 20 seconds and wait 6 min to prime' I see poor design that the Japanese are seldom guilty of. Middle size is often a plunger that looks like a cap or accumulator. Big ones have air.

The 12.5 is not a fully charged battery. 12.6 after setting a week and up to 13.6 after shut down, an hour later probably 13.2.

keydl

93 Dodge /CTD, IC, 518, club cab LE, BHAF, KDP fixed, kelderman air ride
81 Isuzu /C223na, 5spd
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for everyones the help. I think my problem was a low battery and running low RPM's. I charged the battery for two days and used a booter battery when I went to start it and it started right up, also I used the hand throttle set at 1800 rpm and I notice much less smoke and more power. I must have been to too easy on the foot throttle.
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