excessive Intake back pressure - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-19-2008, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
 
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excessive Intake back pressure

I'm not sure if I should even talk about a Long tractor on here...
But I have one. It is a 610. I am getting a huge amount of back pressure
back through the intake. So much that it is blowing the air filter housing
off. It will run. I have used it like this. The exhaust seems like it is working fine. I am guessing some sort of valve problem. I plan on taking the valve covers off tonight.
What should I look for ? I haveven't worked on this one much at all.
So i really don't even know what I'll see when the covers come off.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-19-2008, 04:19 PM
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Does it have a turbo or is it naturally aspirated? Does it smoke heavy, hard to start, and I assume it is low on power? I would definitely run your valves first and see what you come up with there. Almost sounds as if you are getting compression into the intake somehow.
post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-19-2008, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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No turbo, I hadn't really noticed lack of power but....
I don't use it for power. I just use it with a backhoe and
a scraper blade for driveway.
Its always hard to start cause I don't use it much.
It sits for weeks at a time. And I expect it to run.
Haven't tried to start in a couple weeks just got
the garage clean enough to get tractor in.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-20-2008, 01:47 AM
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What does it have for an engine?
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-20-2008, 03:16 AM
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If it isn't a valve issue, it could be a cracked head.

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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 06:46 AM
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The list as I remember for backflow in the intake

mis adjusted valves
stuff on a valve seat
broken valve spring
burned valve
incorrect vent connection from the rocker cover


I would start with a valve adj and a close look at the springs and retainers. Then load it for 30-40 min and check for backflow with a strip of paper about 1/2 the dia of the intake for width held carefully across the open intake. It should pulse slightly in only if it flutters out it has a valve problem.

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I finally got the thing started and in the garage today. (Its cold here)
Pulled off the valve covers...nothing obvious..but...a small snapring
on top of what I would call rockerarm bolt. I'm not to technical....Now from what I can see it didn't come from there it probably was pushed there and got caught on the bolt. It is about a 1/4 inch diameter snapring...I cannot tell where it came from without tearing into the valves..does anyone have any idea,,,,,Oh BTW it is a four cylinder ...made in Romainia...
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 05:36 PM
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Could be from the end of the rocker arm tube that holds the rockers in place. Get your specs and check your valve clearence first off.
post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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OK I'll be tearing into them as soon as I get the battery charged and crank it a few times to see what valve looks funky. I'm guessing I will be able to tell
while cranking it. Then I'll know which one to start with.

Not sure when I'll get time to do it. Got 8 kids and have indoor soccer, homework, softball, and the list goes on. Guy with that many kids should not own a tractor should own a yolk that fits children.....hahahahaha

Thanks for all the advice...It has helped. Whenever I get it figured out I'll be back....
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 07:25 PM
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I assume you do know what we mean by run the valves. You bar the engine over one valve at a time until it is completely closed and then check the clearence with a feeler gauge between the top of the valve stem and the rocker arm. You don't just crank the motor over and look for one that seems odd. You will need to find the valve lash specs for your engine. The intake and exhaust will most likely be different and each will should be somewhere between .012" and 0.20". There will also probably be a hot and cold settings.
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