4230 Overhaul - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-14-2009, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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4230 Overhaul

I have a JD 4230 that i would like to overhaul this summer. Has anyone ever pulled the engine out of one before? Im sure it will need some cylinder work with it not having wet sleeve cylinders. Anyother tips would be great also! Thanks
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-15-2009, 12:40 AM
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It must be a gas?
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-15-2009, 02:56 AM Thread Starter
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Nope non-turbo diesel. Sorry forgot to mention that
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-15-2009, 03:18 AM
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It is a wet-sleeve engine. Not parent-bore.

Depending on what all you need to do to the engine, you could do an in-frame.

Even with a cab (if you have one), they aren't bad to yank out. Just takes time. Hopefully you have an A-frame hoist (or at least splitting stands) and cherry picker.

"Some people are educated beyond their intelligence."

'93 W350 CC, LE, 5spd, HTT modded H1C, 4" DE

Sold- '99 3500 Q/C, SO CTD, 4x4, 5spd.

Traded off- '97 3500 C/C, 4x4, CTD

'92 W250, LE, CC, CTD w/ tweaked pump (SOLD)


"Obama = Hoax and Chains"

If Obama is the answer, it must have been a stupid question.

Last edited by bmoeller; 06-15-2009 at 03:20 AM.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-15-2009, 03:26 AM Thread Starter
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Really? its a wet sleeve motor!? I would probably just do an inframe then if i could. Maybe put new mains in too if the crank looks good. Have you rebuilt one before?
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-17-2009, 02:08 AM
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Not on a 4230 myself, but a friend of mine did an in-frame on his. Been in a 4010 and several 4020 diesels. Plus a 466 and 6076A. IMHO, the 6076A was one of the best they ever built.

The differential and power steering unit up front are the ONLY things I've never had to R & R on a 4020.

All of the 404 CID engines were wet sleeved. 4020 to 4630. The early 4020 blocks are different than the late models or 30 series (mainly where the fuel injection pump is located), but pretty much the same otherwise.

Replace both the rods and mains at the same time. Save you a lot of time later. Get some Plasti-gage to check the clearance.

Our 4430 needs an in-frame, but the boss man will probably let it grenade before that happens. Had to replace the head gasket last year (after someone gave it a big snort of ether and blew it out). Sleeves were polished up. No remaining cross hatch. But, after 18k hours, what else does one expect?

At least several years ago, a service manual for a 4430 was ~$60. Not sure what it is now?

"Some people are educated beyond their intelligence."

'93 W350 CC, LE, 5spd, HTT modded H1C, 4" DE

Sold- '99 3500 Q/C, SO CTD, 4x4, 5spd.

Traded off- '97 3500 C/C, 4x4, CTD

'92 W250, LE, CC, CTD w/ tweaked pump (SOLD)


"Obama = Hoax and Chains"

If Obama is the answer, it must have been a stupid question.

Last edited by bmoeller; 06-17-2009 at 02:15 AM.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-17-2009, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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wow 18K hours! Id say! Its a 73' with 9K hours with lots of abuse. Push snow in the winter, Was our biggest tractor in the 70's and did all the work, and runs the auger almost all year round. They hydrualic pumps are shot too. I was thinking of doing them at the same time but not sure how hard that will be. Ill guess ill wait til my manual gets here.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2009, 02:16 AM
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send your pumps out.....jd pumps are a PITA....

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keep the internet free!!!!!!!!
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2009, 03:26 AM
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There is a new high flow charge pump the pre-charges the main hyd pump and also increases the lube to the trans and differential. Our original took a dump and snapped te small hex shaft that drives it. Gears were junk, as well as the bushings. They replaced the shaft without checking the pump, and it didn't last 3 hrs before it was trashed. You have to remove the rockshaft assembly to get at the pump. The new one is quite a bit bigger and a PITA to install, but it fits. BARELY.

To remove the main pump, you'll have to remove the front axle to drop it from the bottom, or take it out the top. Either way sucks. Fittings are hard to get at. Not much room. Either way, replace the pump drive coupler and bushings. You'll thank me later.

This 4430 has ground TONS of hog feed, hog cart duty, pulled a field sprayer, has run the grain vac for over 10 yrs, hauled TONS of manure, small grain cart. Some tillage. Mainly used to mow road ditches, run the vac and haul manure now.

Also have a '65 4020 diesel that is on its 4th tach. Who knows how many hours are on it. The last one I replaced had almost 9000hrs on it when it croaked. Last engine overhaul was ~24 years ago. Still starts great in the winter, and no block heater of any kind on it. Boss is too cheap to buy one. Tiny sniff of ether in the winter, and its running.

"Some people are educated beyond their intelligence."

'93 W350 CC, LE, 5spd, HTT modded H1C, 4" DE

Sold- '99 3500 Q/C, SO CTD, 4x4, 5spd.

Traded off- '97 3500 C/C, 4x4, CTD

'92 W250, LE, CC, CTD w/ tweaked pump (SOLD)


"Obama = Hoax and Chains"

If Obama is the answer, it must have been a stupid question.

Last edited by bmoeller; 06-18-2009 at 03:31 AM.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-19-2009, 04:57 AM Thread Starter
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Ya my 4230 has been eithered heavily the last 15yrs......... I heard they have a new hi-torque starter for them now?
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