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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-31-2008, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StrokeThis View Post
Adding a washer to the existing springs is pretty ghetto, there isnt any research and development into that, and if it works than thats great, but theres a higher likelyhood of problems. IMHO, either just tighten them down without removing them, or install a gsk.
Thanks!...now im gonna have to go out there and tighten mine down... Wait!.. i gotta stock T/C and V/B.... Errrr :

96 12-valve - some mods
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-01-2009, 02:47 AM
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Here's a few of the plate pix. Correct, the shimming of the gov springs is a hit & miss. A GSK is pretty cheap & available these days, it makes more sense to go that route. Tightening the OEM springs will get you about 100rpm per click. I still have to rewrite the tech articles. I thought maybe they would've been saved.
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Dale

my daily driver:67 F100, 300 4V, cammed, 4 spd.
or, 08 Subaloser Forester, 2" lift.
work rigs: 94 IH 4900, DT466(originally 230hp), #0 fuel plate, tighter gov springs, 22* timing
or, 06 IH 7400, DT466E, 300hp


My Low Buck fuel rate site:
www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-01-2009, 03:32 AM
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Here's the gov spring pix and basic article I just wrote off the top of my head:
-Take out the little screw on the fuel shutoff lever, it's an 8mm.
-get a screwdriver and pry(carefully) on the lever to slide it off the shaft a little bit. Not all the way off, or you'll lose the little keyway. I found this trick after the 5th time of dropping the keyway.
-Take off the gov spring plug with a 7/8" socket.
-Rotate the engine using the nut on the alternator(7/8" socket). It will only rotate one way, so spin it until you see the nut as in the pic below. Tighten 3-4 clicks(1/4 turn per click).
Use a permanant marker, and mark the crank to line it up with something like the belt.
-Now rotate the engine one revolution from the alternator nut, until that mark lines back up, and you should see the other set of gov springs.
-Tighten those springs the same 3-4 as you did the first set.
-Install the threaded cover/plug. It can be tricky to restart the threads, so be patient.
-Push the shutoff lever back to its original place, and tighten up the 8mm headed bolt.
-fire it up, and make sure the idle is not too high(this can happen if you go to the 4th click). See this link for the idle adjustment: http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/adj...d_Gen-Idle.htm
-it's done, go for a spin!
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Dale

my daily driver:67 F100, 300 4V, cammed, 4 spd.
or, 08 Subaloser Forester, 2" lift.
work rigs: 94 IH 4900, DT466(originally 230hp), #0 fuel plate, tighter gov springs, 22* timing
or, 06 IH 7400, DT466E, 300hp


My Low Buck fuel rate site:
www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-01-2009, 08:39 AM
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anyone got P-pump mods???
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-01-2009, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy_Seabee_CM View Post
anyone got P-pump mods???
That's what this whole thread is about

Dale

my daily driver:67 F100, 300 4V, cammed, 4 spd.
or, 08 Subaloser Forester, 2" lift.
work rigs: 94 IH 4900, DT466(originally 230hp), #0 fuel plate, tighter gov springs, 22* timing
or, 06 IH 7400, DT466E, 300hp


My Low Buck fuel rate site:
www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-01-2009, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy_Seabee_CM View Post
anyone got P-pump mods???
What do you want to know? You can change the Delivery Valve, enlarge the Holder, go to larger injector lines, change the timing, and on some pumps change the rack plug, add a duel feed fuel line, large fuel line kit and get away from banjo bolts and improve the fuel supply system with a after market pump, add a fuel pressure gauge, adjust the AFC also change the Afc spring, change the fuel plate or grind it and slide it, What else do you want to know?

Last edited by later; 01-01-2009 at 02:40 PM.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-02-2009, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
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IM vouching on the Gov. Spring mod... my truck idled a lil below the mark before the 1k rpm mark and now with the 3-clicks on the springs it idles right at 1k rpms...before i ran out of fuel at i think its 2250rpm's ....it now goes a lil past 2500rpms before it stops climbing.. i dont know why but it now feels completely different to me and i love it!... so go for the 3-click mod .. it was well worth the time it took to do it which wasnt very long at all.. i think about an hour or so it took me...but that was with fillin up the heater.. anda couple trips to the house...

96 12-valve - some mods
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-02-2009, 02:25 AM
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I added that to the How-to article, along with the washer shims as part of the same article.

Dale

my daily driver:67 F100, 300 4V, cammed, 4 spd.
or, 08 Subaloser Forester, 2" lift.
work rigs: 94 IH 4900, DT466(originally 230hp), #0 fuel plate, tighter gov springs, 22* timing
or, 06 IH 7400, DT466E, 300hp


My Low Buck fuel rate site:
www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-02-2009, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Yep i saw that!... Thanks!

96 12-valve - some mods
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-08-2009, 03:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by later View Post
, and on some pumps change the rack plug,
Yes, don't forget the rack plug!

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