Talking about the International DT series truck & tractor engines, 360, 408, 466, & 530. Ford (New Holland)6.6 & 7.8 litre, Mack E7, and Cummins 8.3 are about the same years as listed for the DT's.
There's 2 different types of pumps that I've done. The mid 80's to 92 and the 93 to 97. For more hp than this Scheids and Hypermax are gurus on the 466's. 600hp is easy to get on these engines.
The easy ones are the 93-97 P-pump, they are just like the 12V dodge from 94-98. And use the instructions http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WZUEXYi0Zw
to get down in there and slide the fuel plate forward and/or grind it down as seen in the picture below. The other pictures show the AFC housing and a closer view of the gov spring plug. The AFC adjustment is with a 5/16" allen wrench from the top, then you'll see a "star wheel" inside. Spin the wheel to loosen the spring(it'll slowly go forward), if you go totally forward it'll have a ton of smoke when you mash the go pedal. A cost effective alternative for any hp rating is a Holset HX40 from a Cummins 8.3
Same goes for the governor springs, these are instructions for the 12V dodge, but it's still going to be about the same.
This is a washer to shim the springs to allow more rpm.
You can also use a 3000 rpm gov spring kit from a 12 valve Dodge/Cummins, they are usually under $150, keep in mind the valves start to float around 3400rpm. Instead of adding shims, you can just tighten the springs by 2-4 "clicks" to gain 2-400 rpm. Follow the washer article, but when you get to the springs you'll just tighten each set at least 2 clicks(1/4 turn per click).
Now for the PES_MW type('84-ish to '92):
skip to the PDF file below the pictures, and go do the full fuel screw. It's 2 nuts on the back of the pump. Then, you can fiddle with the screw on top to fuel harder in the lower rpm, as described in the next paragraph.
To the rear of the pump on the top is 2 different allen plugs. The bigger one is the fuel rate, and the smaller is the star wheel, or pre-boost smoke adjustment.To do the fuel you take off the plug with either a 3/8" or 10 mm allen wrench. Now tie up the fuel shutoff sol. or pull cable in the run position and you will see the adjustment screw. You may need to put a brick or such on the accelerator to keep the screw in the right spot under the hole. Break the jamb nut loose with a 3/8" or 10 mm deep socket. A good trick is to use a skinny screwdriver that fits inside the deep socket you just used on the jamb nut. As you hold the nut with the socket, back out the screw(CCW) about 10 turns, then snug down the nut. Now pull out the socket & screwdriver to make sure you didnt go too far. Run the accelerator lever to make sure the screw doesnt come in contact with the pump. If you go too many turns, you'll see what I'm talking about. Then if it's ok, a good snug on the jamb nut and it's done. Note #1: if you get the screw too high, it'll hit the top of the pump and make the rpm stick. Note #2: If you drop the screw inside the pump you can retrieve it easily with a pencil type magnet, and it's not that easy to get out. Untie the shutdown sol. and remove the accelerator weight tool. Under the smaller allen plug is the star wheel. Take the plug off with either a 5/16" or 8mm allen wrench. Spin the star wheel towards the front of the pump(rotate towards the pass side) to increase low end power(smoke)and away for less low end smoke(essentially releasing the tension on the spring inside). The governor spring mods, and accelerator stop screw are the same as the newer 466's described above, except you cant use a Dodge/Cummins P-pump set of governor springs. I'm working on getting a shim to work on these MW pumps.
I got the shim idea nailed down, but I dont have a victim to test it on.
With that governor, there's no 3k gov spring kit, but you can use one from a 12valve Dodge/Cummins. Depending on the weights inside the gov, it could rev to 2600 to 2900 with a 3k kit, and around 3100-3600 for a 4k kit. You can also make your own. Take out the smallest spring in the gov spring pack. Make/ grind down 2 washers that fits the diameter of the spring and still fits in the stud. Make sure it's around 1.55mm thick for best results. Put a washer in each set of springs, and tighten to 2 -4 clicks past the factory setting(measure the original stud protrusion). You should hit around 3200 like that, as long as you have the fuel and timing.
Ok, I have a little info on the rotary pumped 466's:
Remove the big cover on the top/ rear of the pump.
For max fuel: loosen the jam-nut and turn the slot head "screw" counter-clockwise (you want to draw the cam plate all the way in toward the oil solenoid), take the droop screw out, rotate the "finger" that rides against the cam plate vertical so it allows more throttle travel