I bought a set of PIAA's. Got a really good deal on them. I got them all hooked up today and followed the instructions to a T. Tonight driving home from work I noticed that my headlight pattern didn't seem right. I turned the PIAA's on...and WOW...what light. But...as soon as I shut them off the truck dies. I mean...no stumbling...no coughing...its dead right now. And it won't restart unless I key off/key on.
Does anybody have any idea on where I can look to begin trouble shooting this.
Wow Dave, I'm sure you have double checked all the electrical connections.
It sounds like it should be caused by the new install, so perhaps looking at all those points will lead to something loose or bad. :shrug:
'00 cc f 350 a few mods, and a bts tranny.
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Are you batteries old? I experience this same problem on my Jeep, i had an electrical fan hooked up and the truck started fine but when i turned the fan on it killed the truck, just shut it off. It ended up being that my battery was so dead that when I turned the fan on it killed the truck. Hope this can help
2000 F-250 PSD Extended Cab Short Bed
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Trail rig: 1990 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0 I6, NP231 w/ SYE, Clayton Off road Long arm Suspension with coil conversion in rear, Full width Dana 44 up front(ARB, Warn Hubs and US Alloys Chromoly Axle shafts), full width Dana 60 in rear with Spool. 4.88 Gears all around, 36 inch Interco Bias Irok's, and lots of trail damage. :
I was out of town all day today...so had plenty of thought time...but no time to work on it.
The lights turn on just fine...its when I shut them off the truck dies.
The first thing I am going to do is move my headlight grounds back to the batteries from the body. They were battery grounded initially...and my headlight pattern was awesome. Now its messed up. Plus...I am going to move the PIAA switch from the body to the battery. We'll see if that creates any issues.
If that does...I will then find another power source for the light switch. right now its tapped into a big green wire with a brown tracer(I think) under the dash that my gauges are also tapped into. When the lights shut off...maybe it causes the electrical system to take a hit with the gauges also tapped into that wire.
I dunno. The only connections that were made were for the lights to be hooked directly to the battery through the supplied PIAA relay...a switch ground and a switch power. Thats it.
Hopefully by the end of tomorrow I'll have the problem resolved...or my truck so screwed up that this minor problem won't matter anymore.
Knock on wood...it might be corrected. I moved the headlight ground (I have the aftermarket headlight wiring system -GOS) back to the batteries...plus moved the switch ground to the battery. I left everything else alone. Started the truck...turned the headlights on/off and same with the PIAA's...and the truck stayed running. I did a bunch of quick on/off's to the driving lights...with headlights on and with headlights off...and not a stumble from the truck. Something must just not have been right with the grounds. I will take it back to work tonight and see what happens when I have to run with the headlights.
There is a spike voltage that comes from the shut down of the relay, the manufactures use a relay with a diode to kill the spike when it 'may' cause malfunction - as in a relay that shares with the normal power line for the radio on the control. Power antennas for example. I suspect that some radios may be killed by a spike - I think I did one, never fixed it so don't know for sure. The spike generated when the coil is de energised is caused by the collapse of the magnetic field of the coil - bigger has more energy. A capacitor ( condenser ) will collect the spike also.
The spike may have caused a miss count in the engine control module to shut the engine down. I would take a good look at the other grounds also.
Glad that it is functional - hope you can verify the cause.
I like to KNOW why that I don't want to do it that way next time. Some of the malfunctions can be explained and cured on high power automotive stuff with the electrical connection practices from boats, wire out and back, twisted so it does not affect the compass and wire size to account for both directions. Voltage drop is important for lights so a marine chart helps.
Thanks for the post. I tried it again tonight, and this time when I shut the driving lights off...the truck stumbled...I got the SES light, but it never died. It caught itself after about 5 seconds...idled back up and the SES light went away. So this spike must be creating issues. How do I get rid of it...or what do I place where to absorb this spike.