As far as oil recomendations, I'll let someone else answer that one. Oil and fuel filters should only be replaced with Motorcraft filters, The aftermarket filters wont fit right and can cause problems down the road. Air filter I run the ford filter, its good up to 500hp and filters better than most aftermarket. I change my oil and fuel filters every 5000 miles unless I get bad fuel then I change the fuel filters as needed. Good luck with the truck, maintenence is crucial with it.

 

This 5000 miles is this with a synthetic oil?

:yeahthat. :whs

Take a look at the sticky for what to look for when buying a 6.0 in this forum.

Www.dieselfiltersonline.com has great prices on MC filters. I use them for everything but the air filter and go with the luber finer version. No need to waste money on a KN.

I use Mobil 1 5w-40 and sometimes Delvac 15w-40 in the summer but I don't put a lot of miles on it. 5000 miles interval is fine. Definitely recommend Archoil 9100 in the oil works wonders for the injection system.

Unfortunately low miles doesn't mean there aren't some issues to look for with the EGR, turbo and other areas.

Look at the sticky and start reading :read:welcome

Thanks, been through that sticky a couple times now alot is greek to me. Still just trying to find my way around and learning the terms. Sorry about all the basic questions.

The two oils you've listed are not synthetic are they? The previous owner was running Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 and changing every 7500 miles. Do you not recommend the synthetic oil?

The air filter in my truck looks brand new, do you change on an interval or just when the pop up gauge shows that it need changed?

 

:yeahthat. :whs

Take a look at the sticky for what to look for when buying a 6.0 in this forum.

Www.dieselfiltersonline.com has great prices on MC filters. I use them for everything but the air filter and go with the luber finer version. No need to waste money on a KN.

I use Mobil 1 5w-40 and sometimes Delvac 15w-40 in the summer but I don't put a lot of miles on it. 5000 miles interval is fine. Definitely recommend Archoil 9100 in the oil works wonders for the injection system.

Unfortunately low miles doesn't mean there aren't some issues to look for with the EGR, turbo and other areas.

Look at the sticky and start reading :read:welcome

 

5000 for both in my opinion unless you want to take oil samples and send them in for analysis. For the average guy like us i just change at 5k. Some may say more often with non-synthetic. The basic problem is the oil is beaten to death or better known as sheared by the HPOP (high pressure oil pump) because your injectors use oil pressurized to as high as 4000 psi and this is motor oil not hydraulic fluid. Mobil 1 5w-40 and Rotella T6 5w-40 are your two major brands available everywhere. There are plenty of others like Amsoil but I just like to go to Meijer (like Walmart in MI) and buy it when it's on sale.

Don't worry about it being Greek I bought mine in July 2011 and knew nothing about the truck or 6.0 till I made the mistake of using the wrong coolant and plugging my oil cooler and taking it to a diesel shop to fix it. I was not happy with their work or my lack of knowledge so I started checking out forums. TDG is not the busiest but it has some great folks who like to help. It also is not focused on just one brand so you can learn about heavy duty trucks too.

I put a new air filter in when I got it since I did all the fluids and filters for the entire truck (wish I would have been smarter about the coolant). I need to look at the manual again but I will probably go till 30k unless the sensor goes off.

Basic questions are ok but supply information if people have to guess about what you are asking they may just skip it and move on.

Harry 6.0 recommends a Scan gauge II ( buy at autozone or on line). I have one and it gives you all the valuable information you need to diagnose almost any issue on a 6.0. The engine has its weak points but once those are addressed it is a sweet running diesel with lots of power and torque.

Search 6.0 bible it is a must have resource.

Any volunteers out there for making a complete list of acronyms with definitions we could post as a sticky? :sofa: I was in Bderick67's shoes but slowly have learned a lot and am comfortable working on pretty much all aspects of my 6.0.



Wes

 

Harry 6.0 recommends a Scan gauge II ( buy at autozone or on line). I have one and it gives you all the valuable information you need to diagnose almost any issue on a 6.0.


Wes

So this scangaugeII does it replace conventional gauges for like engine oil temp and engine coolant temp or does it just show diagnostic codes?

 

Thanks for the info

 

5w40 synthetic oils are ideal for these motors and perform in a wider range of climate conditions, especially in winter. I've run it year round since 2003'.

I use Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic with 16oz Archoil AR9100 added in the oil, and a Racor oil filter (Racor actually makes the Motorcraft filter).

Any of the 5w40 synthetics that are diesel rated will work fine, that includes Mobil-1 turbodiesel truck / Valvoline premium blue / Delo 400LE / Amsoil / and many others.

If you live in a warm climate region, then 15w40 diesel rated conventional oil is definitely ok too, and cheaper.

Never go past 5k miles between oil changes, synthetic or conventional. These engines are extremely punishing on motor oils. As stated, the high pressure oil system actually shears the oil molecules/viscosity polymers in half, and breaks any oil down to a lesser grade much faster than any other engine I know of.

For your TorqShift 5speed automatic transmission Ford recommends Motorcraft mercon-LV fluid (thats what I'm running), or mercon-SP if you can still find it, SP was the earlier formula recommended by Ford but has since been replaced with the LV formula, either one is fine. Change it every 25-30k miles. Use an NTZ external filter and Motorcraft internal one.

For your fuel filters, use Racor/Motorcraft only (they have the best water separation media), and change them no more than every 15k miles, I do mine every other oil change, or every 10k miles.

For your air filter, stock Motorcraft is excellent as stated already.

Heres a link to Racor/Motorcraft/NTZ filters for all needs that Weld was talking about.

http://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/ford-6-0-liter-turbo-diesel-truck-filters.aspx

Harry

 

Thanks for the links guys. Ordered 20,000 miles worth of filters and arcoil today

 

Here you go.
View attachment DIESEL SUPPLEMENTAL.pdf

 

Got my Archoil shipment today:woot: Now just waitin on the filters.

Here you go.
View attachment 30905

Thank you as this is very helpful

 

Make sure to only use 16oz of the AR9100 added to 14 or 14.5 qts of the motor oil you have chosen to use. Generally speaking these trucks with a fresh oil change hold 14.5-15.0 qts. Also, make sure to break loose the oil filter cap before draining the oil pan so all the old oil drains from the filter housing into the pan. Which oil did you decide to go with?

Harry

 

thanks for the tip. Going with the rotella T6.

 

I own and operate an expedited trucking company trucks run theDT466E. M rig has to run with no excuses. This is what has worked for me.

USE HOWES ANTIJELL!!! especialy when temps get near 40 deg.F I run it year round and I pickup 1 mpg as comapred to not running it. It will also help deal with lack of lubricity with ultra low sulfer diesel and condensation in the fuel. 325,000 miles and ten years on original hydrolic electronic injectors. You have em too. and the motor has never been opened for major work... Yet..
15/40 conventional I like to run 10% Lucas oil stabilizer it helps with dealing with oli sheer. Run what the former owner ran. If he ran synthetic you can go with either, if he ran conventional non synthetic the wear is already on the engine and synthetic has no better protection than regular oil. Extended drains cost the same as if not more than conventional. Wix makes filters for the OEMs Ford, GM, Mopar as well as Napa and Carquest and fit like a glove. Fram in a pinch. Steer clear from other filters.
Also change the fuel filter and the rock catcher/Prefiter near the fuel filter if you have one. Do this in the spring and fall and run Lubro Moly Diesel Purge once a year toughest part is getting access to the fuel inlet and return lines to do it correctly.

Bob Wolf

 

The Motorcraft filter is patented if you use any other filter on the 6.0 other than MC or Racor ( OEM supplier) you are asking for trouble. Synthetic is also necessary for cold climates for starting. You are still better off running 5w-40 rather than switching to 10w-30 for winter starts. Not sure on the Lucas you may want to check more there has been lots of discussion on that I believe you have to use synthetic version because the standard doesn't hold up to shearing.

I'm sure more comments will follow. :toytruck

Wes

 

I she's with weld about the filters.

 

Agree*

 

It reads most all of the critical live data that most scan tools will not, and reads actual values of engine oil and coolant temps, and reads and clears fault codes. Scroll down to the Ford 6.0L diesel on the x-gauge commands coding page below and you can see what it reads besides the basic readings it comes with. It will read up to 35 parameters if I remember correctly. Great must have tool for any 6.0L owner.

http://www.scangauge.com/

http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge/ford-specific-xgauges/

Harry

 

Ok all, thanks for all the info. So here are my upcoming plans for my truck.

Oil, oil filter and fuel filters change with Rotella T6 synthetic and racor filters along with the Archoil addative.

Ordering a scangaugeII and coolant filter on Friday. Will see what the parameters read from the SCII before deciding my next coarse of action.

Planning on starting a new thread regarding the coolant filter and changing or flushing the old coolant

Probably looking at a bluespring mod and fuel preesure gauge after that.

 

Be sure to either stick with Gold coolant from Ford or do a proper flush and use ELC no green stuff or "universal" coolant. Trust me been there, done that didn't like the results. :danger