Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver, CO area
Thanked 75 Times in 61 Posts
I can't tell you any more than it was in the gauge cluster. The reason is because I diagnosed it down to the gauge cluster and then took it into the dealer. The dealer then repeated the same troubleshooting and confirmed it to be in the cluster. It turns out the dealer doesn't trouble-shoot any further than the gauge cluster, they replace the entire unit with a rebuilt and send the core for rebuilding. I paid about $650 for this work. You can get the same work done for cheaper by sending your cluster to Auto-Nation (the old Tousley Ford). I called them after I agreed to have the dealer fix mine and they said they would sell me a rebuilt unit for something in the range of $350 (can't remember the exact number). They will need to reprogram the cluster with the current mileage of your vehicle and if you have a 'chipped' key they will need you to send them both keys to complete the programming operation. I think there is a fee for this service as well. Doing it this way is cheaper than the way I did it, but you will need to remove the cluster and re-install it, which was beyond what I wanted to attempt. I was afraid I would break something or do a poor job of installing it.
I share your frustration. My symptoms started about 6 years ago. First, the speedo did not return to zero. Then, next the security system would trigger spuriously. At that point, I could have taken in for trouble-shooting, but I was afraid the dealer would tell me to replace the security system, then something else, and so on until I had a huge bill and no satisfaction. So, I just started checking things like the door switches, the under the hood light, and all the relays. In the end I had 2 other symptoms, the dome light stayed on permanently and then, when I finally took it into the dealer the last symptom showed up while I was explaining the problem to the service manager...the door chimed whenever I opened the driver door.
At this point I'm very happy to have all these symptoms fixed, including the security system for a total of $1250. It all works perfectly now and I don't have to worry about the batteries discharging after leaving the vehicle for 2 days. The short in the gauge cluster ended up costing about $650 and they replaced the timer spring for about $550. I don't know what a timer spring is, but the service tech told me is was the reason the chime came on when the driver door was opened.
06' F250 Mods:
-K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
-Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
-Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
-MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust; cat installed
-SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com
-Refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
-Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
--Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40, Archoil 9100 friction modifier (16 ounces to crank case; 10 ounces to each differential)
--2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (5 oz. Stanadyne every tank)
-Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
-Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.
-1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
--Original Motorcraft lasted 4 1/2 years
--AutoZone Duralast Gold lasted less than 3 years
---(with 2/0 cables between + terminals)
--Still on 2nd set of Autozone Gold (replaced free)
--DC Power 185 amp
-Teflon sway bar bushings
-Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
-Cooling system filter
-OEM HG/ARP studs
Last edited by bustedknuckles; 04-13-2014 at 01:34 AM.