These were my symptoms exactly.
Let me start at the beginning:
About six years ago my speedo would not return to zero. This symptom would come and go. Then, about 3 years ago my security system would trigger spuriously...either in the parking lot at work or at night...I'm sure my neighbors love me, otherwise, I would not be alive anymore. I put the security system into valet mode, because I was afraid if I took it to the dealer to get fixed, they would tell me the car alarm was failing and would convince me to replace it. Good thing I resisted taking it in, as you will see below.
Then, about a year ago I began seeing the interior dome light go on while I was driving. It would turn off again after a minute or 2. I was also hearing clicking, like a relay was picking on and off.
Then, about six months ago my batteries failed after just under 3 years of age. I had them replaced for free under warranty.
So, I tried replacing all the relays one at a time...no luck. The light was on solid at this point.
I started taking out the gauge cluster, since I was convinced it was either the power saver relay or interior lamp relay, both located inside the gauge cluster. I decided, after starting to remove it, to take it to the dealer, for fear of messing up something in the dashboard.
I let them do diagnostics on it and they said the root cause was a short in the gauge cluster. I asked them whether they could fix it and they said they don't troubleshoot to actual cause, but replace the entire gauge cluster with a rebuilt one. So, I let them do it. This cost me a little over $700. I also had another set of symptoms, one of which was the truck would chime after the driver door was opened. They said the cause of this was the 'Timer Spring', which cost a little over $400 to replace (ouch).
Anyway, I hope this helps you.
I did consider doing it myself, so I called Auto Nation (used to be Tousley ford), asking them what they could do. They will sell you a new cluster gauge for about $300-400. If you have a 'chipped' key, they will need you to send them both of them, so they can re-program the cluster. If you don't have a 'chipped' key you just need to tell them the exact mileage, which they will program into the new unit before sending it to you. They also need you to send them your old one, otherwise they will charge you for the core.
Like I say, hope this helps. I know this symptom is a pain to diagnose...if you aren't sure exactly where the problem is, it's not a good idea to start replacing things...it can get costly.
I drove out for $1222 and I'm glad I took it to O'Meara Ford in Denver. Even though I hate with a passion taking to them, they have always been spot on with the solution.
I despise letting anyone work on my vehicles because, many years ago, I've repeatedly picked up my vehicle with more symptoms than when I started.... I'll not bore you with the details.
Sorry for the long discussion, but...
Oh, in summary, all my symptoms are resolved, including the security system.
And, I can finally leave my truck sitting for weeks and it starts just fine....yahoo! Oh, and the rebuild includes a new gauge lens, which looks great...the plastic tends to get scratched a little every time you clean them.
06' F250 Mods:
-K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
-Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
-Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
-MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust; cat installed
-SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com
-Refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
-Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
--Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40, Archoil 9100 friction modifier (16 ounces to crank case; 10 ounces to each differential)
--2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (5 oz. Stanadyne every tank)
-Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
-Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.
-1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
--Original Motorcraft lasted 4 1/2 years
--AutoZone Duralast Gold lasted less than 3 years
---(with 2/0 cables between + terminals)
--Still on 2nd set of Autozone Gold (replaced free)
--DC Power 185 amp
-Teflon sway bar bushings
-Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
-Cooling system filter
-OEM HG/ARP studs
Last edited by bustedknuckles; 04-22-2014 at 06:31 PM.