New tuner, driving impressions and questions. - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2014, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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New tuner, driving impressions and questions.

First I just have to say....DAYUM! With only the Street tune the power is AMAZING, I can't imagine how this thing would scoot running the hotter tunes combined with other power mods.
I ordered the Economy, Tow, and Street tunes through Innovative. My plan was to by the SCT X3 per most of the recommendations on here but it has been replaced with the X4, so that's what I got. In Economy mode the trans shifts much sooner than stock and feels completely natural, no lugging, bogging or slipping. With only one day of driving so far I think I'm going to like it for daily driving, thats IF I can resist the urge to run the street tune, (I was grinning ear to ear).
Tech support isn't available on the weekend so I'm hoping someone here can address a couple of issues and questions.
1- Innovative recommends running the street tune for towing up to 10k, I tow around 8K. Have you guys found this to be better than running the tow tune?
2-At one point during the test drive I left a stop sign somewhat normally for a few truck lengths then stomped on it, Wow! The tires broke loose slighty, found traction and then at the 2-3, or the 3-4 shift ( I don't remember) it acted like a manual trans missing a shift and hitting what I guess was the rev limiter around 4400 rpm before I backed off and it "found" a gear again. What the heck was that? It's something I definitly don't want happening again. The Tuner shows the rev limit to be 3600 rpm, how did this happen?
3-On the tuners info page (where it shows the rev limt etc.), it has three lines;
Shift press 1-2
Shift press 2-3 and
Shift press3-5
the default has all three listed at 0%, what should I set those at?
Unfortunately it didn't come with any owners manual and SCT said they don't have one online yet (why release a product without having a manual ready?).
What do ya think guys?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2014, 08:32 PM
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Better get in touch with SCT. Let them know what you have told us.

Dave

2004 Ford F-350 Regular cab with 6.0.
Completely Stock.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2014, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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That's the plan, but they're not open until Monday, thats why I thought I'd toss it out here in the meantime.

2006 F250 6.0 Auto CCLB Amarillo, 4" Turbo back, Atlas 40, Blue spring, SCT X4 mild tunes 75k miles and climbing
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 03:02 AM
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So, are these custom tunes written for your trucks PCM strategies?

Or, are these canned tunes written for all strategies?

If they are custom tunes, contact Innovative.
If they are canned tunes, I would recommend ordering custom tuning.
Good written custom tuning is second to none when matched to your truck, modified or not.

1. With custom tuning one shouldn't have to tweak or set anything, and the shifting should be perfect for the program thats loaded, unless maybe something is wrong with your transmission.

2. If your not studded and your going to tow 8k, I would only recommend stock or a mild tow tune only.

3. Running a 80-100+ rwhp street performance tune w/out studs and towing 8k is asking for blown head gaskets....remember we only have 4-bolts per cyl clamping down those HG's, when everyone else has 6. Even if studded and towing 6-8-10-12-15k+ one should run a tow tune when towing.

4. Running a 80-100+ rwhp street performance tune w/out studs and not towing is ok, but it's still a risk and you should use the power with caution.

5. If your running tuned, like many of us are, one should have gauges and a larger exhaust, high egt's can and will cause problems, especially if egr is still active.

6. I have no clue on the changes within the new SCT X4, but have a feeling were all about to find out....and welcome to the power addiction club, things will never be the same for you now, don't ask me how I know...

Harry

Jan 03' built 6.0/F250cc4wd trqsft/SCT-tuned by KEM-Performance/Garrett Powermax vg-turbo/blue spring mod/gauges=egt+boost+fuel+SG2/exhaust/airaid intake/DR 4.5 lift/dual bilsteins/315's/greasable ball joints/powerstop/smittybuilt/kc lights/high idle mod/roll-n-lock/Mobil Delvac1 ESP 5W40 with (Archoil AR9100 in the oil) and (AR6200 in the fuel)
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 03:39 AM Thread Starter
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The tunes are from Eric. This is my first experience with any tuner so I'm not familiar with what features they have. The X4 has a page that shows some of the settings (for lack of a better or proper term), one of which showed the rev limit to be 3600 rpm which is why I'm puzzled. I monitored the engine closely for the last couple of years, it's well maintained, close deltas, added a coolant filter and 4" turbo back exhaust and so on before I considered getting a Programer and I'm mindful on how I drive. Hopefully by sticking with the milder tunes I won't have HG problems, but I'm aware of the possibility.
Innovative was specific when I quizzed them about towing, they said to use the Street tune not the Tow tune in my case eventhe Street version puts out 120 hp vs the Tows' 65 hp.
I'll have to wait 'til Monday to try to contact them, I'll report back with the results for future reference.
Thank Ya Harry!

2006 F250 6.0 Auto CCLB Amarillo, 4" Turbo back, Atlas 40, Blue spring, SCT X4 mild tunes 75k miles and climbing
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 04:05 AM
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You may want to get their opinion about no studs. As Harry mentioned clamping force is limited due to fewer bolts and the torque to yield design. I did studs one at a time and so far so good. Basically pull one bolt and replace with a stud moving around the head in the torque sequence. There are risks but if you are confident the original ones are good it's an option.

I like my tow tune and atlas 40 combo. You may want to install a pyrometer to keep an eye on EGT's.

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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I told them it has the original studs and gaskets when they took the info for setting up the tunes, they said with the three they were providing it wouldn't be a problem ( I know even stock tuned trucks have failed) but to stay away from the more aggrssive tunes.
How big of a PIA was the one stud at a time? Looks like a couple of them would be darn near impossible to get in, or did you pull the cab? I've never been deep into this motor, or any diesel for that matter and don't plan on it myself. The most I've done is pulled, cleaned, and reinstalled the turbo. Has anyone ever looked into O-ringing either the head or block on one of these?
I'm looking at Pyro's, are there any good ones that can be had for a decent price?

2006 F250 6.0 Auto CCLB Amarillo, 4" Turbo back, Atlas 40, Blue spring, SCT X4 mild tunes 75k miles and climbing
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 01:40 PM
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I know that one member on here has oringed heads, runs hot tuning and has had no issues for years. But also many others have had good luck with just properly torqued ARP's and stock Ford oem gaskets. Heres some heads that the controversal Bill Hewitt is offering...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMRYrUqJ_X4

I've had my Autometer gauge and pyro installed for the last 10+ yrs and had one pyro probe fail after about 4yrs. It quit reading egt's properly, but did not melt or break off. I would stick with Autometer or Isspro for pyro setup, you don't want a cheap pyro probe taking out the turbo. And it's better to have a matched set (pyro probe + gauge) from the same manufacturer for ideal accuracy.

I also drilled the hole for the pyro probe fitting in the drivers side exh manifold on the rear bottom after it curves away from the last port from underneath the truck with the engine idling and wearing safety goggles. With the engine running, the exhaust pressure will push out any small shavings. Same thing when tapping the hole too.

Will have to wait for Weld's response on his studding details.

Harry

Jan 03' built 6.0/F250cc4wd trqsft/SCT-tuned by KEM-Performance/Garrett Powermax vg-turbo/blue spring mod/gauges=egt+boost+fuel+SG2/exhaust/airaid intake/DR 4.5 lift/dual bilsteins/315's/greasable ball joints/powerstop/smittybuilt/kc lights/high idle mod/roll-n-lock/Mobil Delvac1 ESP 5W40 with (Archoil AR9100 in the oil) and (AR6200 in the fuel)
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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I agree with ya on avoiding cheap gauges, you usually end up paying more in the long run due to replacing them. Autometer and ISSPRO are the two I'm considering, both have a good rep.
The tip on where and how you located the probe is VERY helpful, thanks. When doing that type of work I usually grease up the drill and the tap to collect the shavings and thought I'd put my shop vac onthe tip while doing the work. I think I'll use your method and just let her idle.

2006 F250 6.0 Auto CCLB Amarillo, 4" Turbo back, Atlas 40, Blue spring, SCT X4 mild tunes 75k miles and climbing
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 02:48 PM
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I second the autometer can't find the thread where I posted pics of my installation. My truck wasn't running I just used gravity and took my time. I also used my shop vac to assist. Not big on laying under a running truck.

https://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...d.php?t=115988

As far as ARP 1 at a time yes the two rear ones are tough.

I had to unbolt the transfer case from the crossmember then use a bottle jack to push everything to the frame rail. Just enough clearance to get the bolt out and stud in. Then on the passenger side I cut a hole on the air conditioner box and made a clamp out of some aluminum sheet sheet metal screw to pull them together (inside and outside the box) along with a little silicon caulk to seal things up. It's not the easiest thing to do and pulling the torque required standing on your head can be a PITA. I think I have a PM I sent to another member with more descriptive steps. I'll take a look.

Update.

Here is the pyro install info.

https://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...=121514&page=4
Wes

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


Not a diesel mechanic in real life but I play one on the Internet

Last edited by Weld engineer; 05-04-2014 at 02:55 PM. Reason: Missing info
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