Rear brake caliper piston replacement help. - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Rear brake caliper piston replacement help.

My truck doesn't get enough exercise and so both rear brake calipers are locking up. Truck has 31k miles and rear pads still have 80% left but they need replacing as well since they have over heated a few times on short rides.

I would like to rebuild my OEM calipers instead of buying remanufactured and just want to see if there is anyone here that can help me find the right pistons (OEM or good quality aftermarket pistons).

I took one caliper off and one of the two pistons was stuck so I tried to spin it to free it and it just broke/crumbled up the end. So I need a set of 4 pistons and seals to do both rear calipers. Part #'s would be nice if anyone has done this before and kept the #'s around.

The sliders on this side I took off are smooth but will be lubed up as a preventive maintenance.

Brake pads I am leaning toward finding Bendix but want to see if there is anyone who has had any real issues with the brand.

Truck is 2006 6.0 F250 KR SRW I can get the #'s off the caliper if it will help with getting the right parts.

Any help or thoughts is greatly appreciated

2006 Dark Copper/Arizona Beige F-250 4x4 King Ranch CC SB 6.0/TorqShift 3.73LS Build 09/05:Bought 09/05 w/3 miles(12-15-06 9,300 all stock miles)

1993 Mack RW713 Superliner E7-350 Jacobbs Jake 8LL 20/58 Camelback 12R 24.5 Tandem Dump(12-15-06 586,000 miles)

1989 Mack RW713 Superliner E6-350 Dynatard 12sp 20/58 Camelback 11R 24 Tandem Dump(12-15-06 317,000 miles)

1996 Cat 416B 4X4 Ext-hoe (12-15-06 6,200 hrs)
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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 11:07 PM
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I've rebuilt many. I have had good luck with Raybestos. I usually use the steel pistons instead of the "plastic" because they will not break.
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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-13-2014, 03:19 AM
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I've used Wagner ThermoQuiet Brake pads with good results on the trucks in my dads construction company fleet along with my personal trucks.

2003 Ford F-250 SuperCab FX4
6.0L Turbo Diesel
RCD EGR Delete Kit, Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter, Warren Diesel 155cc/Stock Nozzle Injectors, ARP Headstuds, Innovative Diesel Tunes, 5" Straight Pipe Exhaust, Blue Spring Mod, 4.5" Lift Kit

2006 Ford F-250 CrewCab FX4
6.0L Turbo Diesel
Innovative Diesel Tunes, 4" MBRP Single Stack Kit w/ Side-By-Side Dual Aussie Stack, Blue Spring Mod, RCD EGR Delete, Warren Diesel 155cc/30% Nozzle Injectors, Sinister Coolant Filter Kit, One Piece STC Fitting, Updated Standpipes/Dummy Plugs, Variant Raim Air/Cold Air Intake, 6" Lift Kit, 37s on 20" wheels,
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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-13-2014, 08:19 PM
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I use Wagner ThermoQuiet Brake pads with good results also. I only have 50k on them so far but lots of material left. I turned the rotors at about 65,000 miles, only because I wanted the truck to stop very smooth. I have 115k on the truck now...still stops smooth.

06' F250 Mods:

Performance related:
-K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
-Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
-Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
-MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust; cat installed
-SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com

Reliability Mods:
-Refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
-Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
--Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40, Archoil 9100 friction modifier (16 ounces to crank case; 10 ounces to each differential)
--2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (5 oz. Stanadyne every tank)
-Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
-Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.

Miscellaneous:
-1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
-Batteries:
--Original Motorcraft lasted 4 1/2 years
--AutoZone Duralast Gold lasted less than 3 years
---(with 2/0 cables between + terminals)
--Still on 2nd set of Autozone Gold (replaced free)
-Alternator:
--DC Power 185 amp
Future Mods:
-Teflon sway bar bushings
-Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
-Cooling system filter
-OEM HG/ARP studs
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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-15-2014, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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Since these are the rears and I don't use truck much I went ahead and ordered the Wagner Thermoquiets, If I get 30k miles in 7-8 years on them I will be happy. I will take them back apart when truck hits 40,000 miles to see how they look.

When I come around to doing the fronts I will probably go with Raybestos.

As for the caliper pistons I ordered two aftermarket of the same material(plastic) and if they fit like the OEM's I will order another two for the other side. I didn't want to lose my OEM calipers on a core trade in so I will test these and if they don't work out I will get the OEM pistons.

this is also a good time for me to do another brake fluid flush as well although fluid is as clear as new. I am using Prestone DOT3 & 4 Synthetic

thank you for the responses and for the brand options.

2006 Dark Copper/Arizona Beige F-250 4x4 King Ranch CC SB 6.0/TorqShift 3.73LS Build 09/05:Bought 09/05 w/3 miles(12-15-06 9,300 all stock miles)

1993 Mack RW713 Superliner E7-350 Jacobbs Jake 8LL 20/58 Camelback 12R 24.5 Tandem Dump(12-15-06 586,000 miles)

1989 Mack RW713 Superliner E6-350 Dynatard 12sp 20/58 Camelback 11R 24 Tandem Dump(12-15-06 317,000 miles)

1996 Cat 416B 4X4 Ext-hoe (12-15-06 6,200 hrs)
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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-15-2014, 07:33 PM
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You use to be able to buy the rebuild caliper kits, and they were cheap. the pistons were a lot more than the kits. now the exchange calipers are so cheap it is not worth it.
Personally I bought new kits from Rock Auto, I bought the Power stop kits, drilled and slotted rotors, new calipers and pads.
You have to be real anal about getting the mounts, on the fronts.
Just a thought!

1988 ford van fresh overhaul, 1991 nissan pick-up 1993 Caprice 2000 GMC S10 Blaser 2007 nbs 3500 GMC 4x4 crew-cab long box 17 inch single wheels Duramax Alison. BW turnover Ball. Furakawa FL35 loader. Retired, HD mechanic, worked on engines all my life. Fabricator welder. electrician. in the process of finishing my new shop. Live in Rock Creek B.C. Wife has a fruit stand.
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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 02:39 AM Thread Starter
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My orders arrived faster than expected.

I just have a concern about the Wagner pads I received so I included some pics to show them. Hope I uploaded them properly.

First I would like to point out that the box says made in USA BUT nowhere on the pads does it show the Wagner brand or part # or any printing on pads showing where they are made so I'm hoping I didn't get a set of cheap imports inside a nice Wagner box.

Pictures show the pads on both sides but I don't know what a Wagner pad should look like so I 'm hoping someone here does. Box does not have a factory seal so it can easily be opened and pads swapped with imports and I will never know, but the pads were sealed in clear plastic without any printing. Also came with the clips in a sealed Wagner bag as pictured.

I already installed them and they fit perfect.

Now for the pistons, I thought I was buying aftermarket pistons since where I purchased them there was no information just part #. Well I received them and they turned out to be OEM TRW's @ $7.50 each shipped I went ahead and ordered the other two for other side. These came in factory sealed bag and marked MADE IN USA

I found what may have caused the one piston to lock on driver's rear side and it was the lower one. There is a small pocket inside the caliper at the very bottom below the back of lower piston and it was completely filled with sludge. I am thinking the sludge was from break-in debris that made its way to that lower spot which then started to jam into the lower piston making it hard to slide. I will see what the other side looks like if it also has a lower piston stuck and sludge. Figured I would put this information out here just in case it can be of any help to someone in the future.
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2006 Dark Copper/Arizona Beige F-250 4x4 King Ranch CC SB 6.0/TorqShift 3.73LS Build 09/05:Bought 09/05 w/3 miles(12-15-06 9,300 all stock miles)

1993 Mack RW713 Superliner E7-350 Jacobbs Jake 8LL 20/58 Camelback 12R 24.5 Tandem Dump(12-15-06 586,000 miles)

1989 Mack RW713 Superliner E6-350 Dynatard 12sp 20/58 Camelback 11R 24 Tandem Dump(12-15-06 317,000 miles)

1996 Cat 416B 4X4 Ext-hoe (12-15-06 6,200 hrs)
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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 02:46 AM
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They look like Wagner pads that I have seen in the past. They do not look like Chinese made.

Dave

2004 Ford F-350 Regular cab with 6.0.
Completely Stock.

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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 03:32 AM
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There was a show a few years back, something about back yard garage or what ever. Anyway they had a segment about brake pads, it was a factory in the US and they made a lot of brake shoes for a lot of different companies to each companies specs and different backing plates.
When I use to rebuild calipers I found many had a black grit in the caliper. At that time the pistons were chrome plated, and you could take them apart and reuse everything, after a good cleaning, with no leaks, in a pinch.
I find now that most calipers I check the bleeder is seized.
Just a thought!

1988 ford van fresh overhaul, 1991 nissan pick-up 1993 Caprice 2000 GMC S10 Blaser 2007 nbs 3500 GMC 4x4 crew-cab long box 17 inch single wheels Duramax Alison. BW turnover Ball. Furakawa FL35 loader. Retired, HD mechanic, worked on engines all my life. Fabricator welder. electrician. in the process of finishing my new shop. Live in Rock Creek B.C. Wife has a fruit stand.
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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 03:37 AM
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Brake flush every 2yrs regardless of miles can do wonders for caliper longevity.

However, even with me doing that my wife has still managed to burn up the brakes twice now while descending steep grades while towing the horses...claims she was in tow haul too, on both occasions...but 4 women together in one truck after riding all day...it's more likely she was too busy talking...hope she dosen't read this.

Harry

Jan 03' built 6.0/F250cc4wd trqsft/SCT-tuned by KEM-Performance/Garrett Powermax vg-turbo/blue spring mod/gauges=egt+boost+fuel+SG2/exhaust/airaid intake/DR 4.5 lift/dual bilsteins/315's/greasable ball joints/powerstop/smittybuilt/kc lights/high idle mod/roll-n-lock/Mobil Delvac1 ESP 5W40 with (Archoil AR9100 in the oil) and (AR6200 in the fuel)
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