Thermostat options (expensive ones): 185 and 200 *F - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 08-09-2014, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thermostat options (expensive ones): 185 and 200 *F

Was just sent the info below in an email from Mishimoto - offering a few (expensive) choices:

185 *F thermostat:
http://www.mishimoto.com/ford-6-0l-p...tat-03-07.html

200 *F thermostat:
http://www.mishimoto.com/ford-6-0l-p...tat-03-07.html

Mark
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 01:44 AM Thread Starter
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Cheaper at XDP:
http://www.xtremediesel.com/search.a...d=MMTS-F2D-03H

On several other forums, some folks have talked about wanting a thermostat with a hotter setpoint - for better engine efficiency. Still others wanted a lower setpoint for better cooling while working the engine hard. So far I am happy where I am w/ OEM, but thought I would share this.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270AXP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD BilletWaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 01:51 AM
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I just bought on from XPD yesterday to try.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 02:44 AM
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I want and adjustable servo driven flow restrictor that is controlled by the PCM.

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 02:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lenzhotrod View Post
I just bought on from XPD yesterday to try.
I'm assuming you got the lower temp opening one due to the oil cooler issue your experiencing?

Harry

Jan 03' built 6.0/F250cc4wd trqsft/SCT-tuned by KEM-Performance/Garrett Powermax vg-turbo/blue spring mod/gauges=egt+boost+fuel+SG2/exhaust/airaid intake/DR 4.5 lift/dual bilsteins/315's/greasable ball joints/powerstop/smittybuilt/kc lights/high idle mod/roll-n-lock/Mobil Delvac1 ESP 5W40 with (Archoil AR9100 in the oil) and (AR6200 in the fuel)
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 02:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weld engineer View Post
I want and adjustable servo driven flow restrictor that is controlled by the PCM.
Yeah, when winter hit's it takes along time for warm up, and sometimes the t-stat never opens. A dial up t-stat control from the drivers seat would be nice.

Harry

Jan 03' built 6.0/F250cc4wd trqsft/SCT-tuned by KEM-Performance/Garrett Powermax vg-turbo/blue spring mod/gauges=egt+boost+fuel+SG2/exhaust/airaid intake/DR 4.5 lift/dual bilsteins/315's/greasable ball joints/powerstop/smittybuilt/kc lights/high idle mod/roll-n-lock/Mobil Delvac1 ESP 5W40 with (Archoil AR9100 in the oil) and (AR6200 in the fuel)
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 09:33 AM
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How to word this to help everyone understand the purpose of the thermostat and the possible drawbacks of installing a lower opening temperature replacement.

The thermostat does not stop fluid flow in the cooling system, it regulates it. The radiator is your water to air heat exchanger, and it's job is to extract heat from the coolant. If the fluid passes through the heat exchanger too rapidly, it can not efficiently shed it's heat through the core into the air. Lowering the thermostat temperature will increase the duty cycle on the radiator, meaning it will see a higher frequency in temperatures rising and falling in normal operation and will have a corresponding loss of time during high loads to cool the fluid.

The only way to combat this is to adjust the fan operating temperatures in the tuning because the 6.0L uses a computer controlled fan clutch. You'll use more power driving the fan and in turn see a small loss of usable power and efficiency in the process. Failing to adjust the fan temperature set points will result in an increased temperature swing in the cooling system under normal operation, and may result in the inability to control temperatures during heavy work loads.

The volume of the stock radiator is large enough that it can fully swap out the fluid volume of the engine with cooled fluids. You can play with the size and efficiency of the radiator to a point with no I'll effect on the cooling system. As long as the volume of coolant is sufficient to "swap out" the hot coolant in the engine and the radiator can cool that fluid off before the thermostat allows the next exchange, the cycle will continue seamlessly. If the radiator is too small or if it end up being increased in capacity to the point that air flow through the core becomes insufficient for proper heat transfer even with the aid of a fan, you can end up with the engine running hot despite your efforts to improve it.

I've been down this road before with C2 Corvettes, 65-68 Mustangs, later model Mustangs and Camaros, and especially in 1980s/1990s 1/2-Ton through 1-Ton pickup trucks where the size of the radiator and/or the available air flow is limited. It is not uncommon even now that the classics are 50 year old vehicles and you'd think the knowledge would be out there, that using 160 and even 185 thermostats make the overheating problems worse, not better. High Flow thermostats ALSO make the problem worse not better. Packaging thicker "high efficiency" "heavy duty" radiators into these vehicles without substantial increases in fan flow makes these problems worse, not better.

Now, as for the cold weather warmup, maybe somebody needs to come up with a way of remote mounting an EGR cooler and diverting the waste heat from the exhaust back into the cooling system for accelerated warmups in cold climates. Regulate the flow of exhaust across the heat exchanger to prevent overheating and flashing the coolant. It sound crazy but wouldn't be all that hard to do. I still think the EGR source and thus the cooler should have been located post-turbo, since the exhaust composition would be essentially the same, and still inert.

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 12:44 PM
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Two servos then one for coolant flow and one for exhaust heating of the fluid for faster time to operating temp.

Honestly always wondered why the thermostat really is the same as 60-70 years ago. Your post makes me wonder even more.

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 03:12 PM
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P-51 Mustang uses electric servos on the coolant and oil cooler air exhaust doors controlled by temp bulbs in the fluid lines. Not sure how effective shutters would be on the trucks.

One thing I would like to explore is pre charging the cooling system with about 15 psi. The merlins have a habit of cracking cyl heads and the theory is it is caused by hot spots in the head due to air pockets from boiling coolant. Raise the pressure, raise the boiling temperature. It's not been used long enough to prove if it helps or not. An added benefit is with a coolant pressure gauge installed you can detect a coolant leak before start-up.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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JSM180 - I like the idea. I would think that the best approach would be to get the air pockets out completely, but that may not be possible. Also, the degas caps are really not made for frequent relieving. I believe that if they vent very many times, then they will get weak and start to leak (IIRC Ford has stated this). By this I mean that if they are pre-charged to 15 psi, then the coolant expansion as it heats up would raise the pressure even more and cause venting. Still -- a very interesting thought.

Idaho - thanks for the (extremely) well written post. Do you believe that even a 5-7 degree change in the thermostat would make that much performance difference in our trucks? By the nature of the size of our coolant system, its relatively large volume helps "buffer" changes. What you said above all makes sense, but to what degree in our engines? Also, doesn't the thermostat act to direct more/less "sidestream" water through the radiator. It really doesn't restrict the total flow any does it?

Mark
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Last edited by bismic; 08-10-2014 at 04:00 PM.
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