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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Steering gear box

Tired of my floating steering and ready to pull my steering box. I've adjusted it 3 times and it lasts for a little while but is really starting to annoy me. Cardone is about 125$ or Red head for over 2x that plus shipping costs.

Thoughts, opinions, suggestions?

Thanks.

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 08:52 PM
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I have an '06. My original lasted 80,000. In the end, the truck would pitch from side to side on the freeway, which is pretty annoying.

I have about 35,000 on the current box, which is a rebuilt put on by Firestone. They quoted $250 for the core, which I wanted to keep, but that's too much; it seems OK for now. My next box is going to be a Red Head.

06' F250 Mods:

Performance related:
-K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
-Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
-Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
-MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust; cat installed
-SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com

Reliability Mods:
-Refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
-Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
--Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40, Archoil 9100 friction modifier (16 ounces to crank case; 10 ounces to each differential)
--2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (5 oz. Stanadyne every tank)
-Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
-Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.

Miscellaneous:
-1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
-Batteries:
--Original Motorcraft lasted 4 1/2 years
--AutoZone Duralast Gold lasted less than 3 years
---(with 2/0 cables between + terminals)
--Still on 2nd set of Autozone Gold (replaced free)
-Alternator:
--DC Power 185 amp
Future Mods:
-Teflon sway bar bushings
-Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
-Cooling system filter
-OEM HG/ARP studs
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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The consensus seems to be do it once and use RedHead on other forums. Really couldn't find a bad post. I guess my only hang up is I dislike having to ship and receive something like a steering box to and from WA. No offense Harryy6.0.
Just wish they had local distribution but I'm going to bite the bullet this Fall and get one.

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 04:14 AM
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We could throw in your steer-box here at the house or down at the shop if you want to plan a road trip, be more than happy to accommodate. Redhead is still about 350mi from my place though.

Harry

Jan 03' built 6.0/F250cc4wd trqsft/SCT-tuned by KEM-Performance/Garrett Powermax vg-turbo/blue spring mod/gauges=egt+boost+fuel+SG2/exhaust/airaid intake/DR 4.5 lift/dual bilsteins/315's/greasable ball joints/powerstop/smittybuilt/kc lights/high idle mod/roll-n-lock/Mobil Delvac1 ESP 5W40 with (Archoil AR9100 in the oil) and (AR6200 in the fuel)
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harry6.0 View Post
We could throw in your steer-box here at the house or down at the shop if you want to plan a road trip, be more than happy to accommodate. Redhead is still about 350mi from my place though.

Harry
Might have to plan a road trip.

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 05:43 AM
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I had to adjust my oem box early on back in 04', so far the adjustment has held up, steering is still good. I also found that the pitman arm on the steerbox had come a bit loose a few times, but mine is a drop arm for the 4.5" lift. Did an extreme torque of the pitman shaft nut with locktight and paint marked it, hasn't moved since.

However, I did develop steering wander around 35k which progressed to unacceptable by 50k, my front ball joints were the cause. Replaced all 4 of them up front with Napa chassis gold series greasable units, they have help up great for many years now and our roads around here are terrible.

Harry

Jan 03' built 6.0/F250cc4wd trqsft/SCT-tuned by KEM-Performance/Garrett Powermax vg-turbo/blue spring mod/gauges=egt+boost+fuel+SG2/exhaust/airaid intake/DR 4.5 lift/dual bilsteins/315's/greasable ball joints/powerstop/smittybuilt/kc lights/high idle mod/roll-n-lock/Mobil Delvac1 ESP 5W40 with (Archoil AR9100 in the oil) and (AR6200 in the fuel)
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-16-2014, 03:30 PM
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I'll throw in my contrarian post here.

Many threads in the forums talk about adjusting the preload on the box. However there is more then one, and second, if the adjustment is slightly overdone the wear occurs exponentially and wander returns even more then before. You can adjust the preload correctly by following the directions in the manual, directions that have been the same since this design of steering was developed many decades ago. But no one wants to take the time so the typical 1/8 turn and see how it goes is the rule, often ending worse in a few 10k miles. And once the wear occurs, you not going to correct it.

Redhead had a great rep, but there have been some issues if you look to the other forums, FTE as an example. IMO, they were 100% good until they started the group buys and production overtook QC. There are threads out there about leaking boxes and poor adjustments if you look hard. Hopefully they are doing better then maybe a year ago. Some have reported good results with the NAPA boxes, but I have not used either to give my own experience.

This wasn't meant as a do not buy from RH, but just as a warning they may not be foolproof so I would replace with enough time before a camping trip or snowplow season to get some miles in.

Jack -
Formerly FMTRVT, Manager of Vehicle Testing - Brakes

2003 F-350SC Lariat 4x4 6.0L Auto

Truck Modifications as below in Pictorials on Facebook. Google - Facebook TooManyToys
Step Lights;Painted Flanges; Bypass Oil Filter; Heated Mirror Switch; Reverse Lights; 7.3L Fuel Reg Shim; 6 Disc Radio Speed Volume Mod; Coolant Filter, etc.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 07:25 AM
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My E99 is terrible, depending on the crosswind, I'm 1/8 turn or more into the steering wheel either direction. Mine is a combination of worn ball joints and tie rods, track bar bushings and maybe a little bit of wear in the steering box.

For what it's worth, I just priced everything to rebuild the front end of my truck, to bring it back to new spec, and it's $1000 using Moog/Motorcraft/Timken components. I can cut the component quality a little bit and get it down to about $800. Both those numbers are before tax or shipping. I priced it all out because I needed to be sure I wasn't barking up the wrong tree wanting to swap to the '05-07 axles and steering. Thanks to my current setup, I'll need tires in less than 10k miles, and in 134k on my '05, I never had an issue with ball joints, suspension or steering components, other than a power steering pump failure, it broke the shaft internally and just quit working. Since the swap is bolt on, I'm upgrading everything including the steering box, especially since my research shows the E99 has the weakest box.

If you don't want to send your box off for rebuild, all the parts are available to rebuild it yourself. They aren't hard to rebuild, just takes a couple hours and a little patience, but you could DIY in a weekend if not a day, easily.

The Current Truck (Oct-2013 to Present):
1999 (Early) F-350 Lariat, CCLB, SRW, Black/Tan

7.3L Powerstroke, 4R100, 4x4, 3.73, 37x13.50-18s, '05 Axle Swap, 6" Fabtech lift, GTP38 "D66" turbo upgrade, SCT 4-position chip with custom tuning by me, Straight Piped 4" down pipe through 5" dual stacks, N-Fab full length triple steps, Pro-Tech cab guard and tool box, louvered 5th wheel gate, Hella 500 Fog and Driving lamps, much more to come...
The one I'll miss, (Mar-2009 to Jan-2014):
2000 Excursion XLT 4x4

6.8L V-10, 4R100, 4.30, 285/75-18, 271whp / 388wtq
The one I won't, (Jul-2005 to Sep-2012):
2005 F-350 XLT, CCLB, SRW, 4x4 FX4

6.0L PSD, ZF-6S650, 3.73, 35x12.5-18, 4.5" Lift

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ball joints were done by first owner. I did moog torsion bar links and everything except outer tie rod ends as they seem solid. Inner tie rods were sloppy and I added a damper since mine is an XLT and didn't have it. Track bar also seems good. I'd probably rebuild it myself if I had time and thought I'd be successful. Think I'll save up and do a redhead this October. Don't mind paying more if it's once and done.

Continue the Ford Forearm Workout for the time being.

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 05:48 PM
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not to steal your thread but I have a question that may pertain to the gear box. on my 06 F250 since it's lifted and has 20s with 37s wrapped on them from time to time the steering wheel will turn just fine but then there are other times when doing parking lot turning or backing out of the driveway the truck feels like it lost power steering and I have to strong arm the wheel and crank it to turn but then I shift from reverse to drive or vice versa and the wheel turns fine without effort?

any idea? I'm thinking maybe it's the powersteering pump on it's way out?

2003 Ford F-250 SuperCab FX4
6.0L Turbo Diesel
RCD EGR Delete Kit, Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter, Warren Diesel 155cc/Stock Nozzle Injectors, ARP Headstuds, Innovative Diesel Tunes, 5" Straight Pipe Exhaust, Blue Spring Mod, 4.5" Lift Kit

2006 Ford F-250 CrewCab FX4
6.0L Turbo Diesel
Innovative Diesel Tunes, 4" MBRP Single Stack Kit w/ Side-By-Side Dual Aussie Stack, Blue Spring Mod, RCD EGR Delete, Warren Diesel 155cc/30% Nozzle Injectors, Sinister Coolant Filter Kit, One Piece STC Fitting, Updated Standpipes/Dummy Plugs, Variant Raim Air/Cold Air Intake, 6" Lift Kit, 37s on 20" wheels,
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