6.0 chugging when trying to accelerate - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 05:20 AM Thread Starter
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6.0 chugging when trying to accelerate

I was out of town this weekend and my truck has been sitting at a friends house since Friday morning. Jumped in it today, started right up. Turned out of the driveway and truck accelerated slowly and I had to let up on the gas pedal to get it to shift. I didn't go over 20mph before having to stop at a stop sign. I pulled away from there and the truck started chugging and didn't want to shift and didn't want to accelerate at all. Blowing a ton of what looked to be white smoke (it was dark out so hard to tell exactly what color it was). Service engine soon light came on. I got it to a parking lot and that's where it's sitting. It runs fine when sitting at idle but the second I touch the gas pedal it just chugs. Any ideas? I don't have a code reader and oreillys was closed so I couldn't read the code tonight.

It is an 07 f350 6.0 lariat outlaw. I had 4 injectors replaced a few months ago. The truck wouldn't keep running when those injectors went out so I'm kind of thinking this isn't an injector issue but I'm definitely not ruling that out.

Any help from you experts would be greatly appreciated!
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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 08:22 AM
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The first thing to do is scan the truck and pull codes. Work from te codes to find the issue.

If the EGR system is intact, I'd suspect the EGR valve to be stuck open, preventing the engine from making boost because the exhaust is just getting fed back into the intake. They run like dogs when the valve is stuck open, no power, won't shift.

The valve is on the intake manifold adjacent to the oil filter, one electrical plug with three or four wires, and three 8mm head bolts holding it down. If it's got a lot of carbon buildup, it takes some prying to get it out, be gentle though an you can reuse the gasket and o-rings. Carefully remove the o-rings once you get it out, clean it up really good, inspect it to make sure both seats are seating fully, reinstall the o-rings and let them rest (shrink back to size after stretching them to get them back on) and then use a light swipe of oil to let them easily slide back in, bolt the valve down and it should drive fine.

Start with the codes though. If you can't pull codes, then I'd suggest checking the EGR valve, when mine stuck open, it was running fine, I parked the truck for a couple hours, went to drive it and almost got T-boned turning onto the highway, when I had enough time to make that left three times over if the truck had been running normally.

If you want to be proactive, get an EGR valve gasket and o-rings before you pull it apart, then you don't had to reuse anything.

The Current Truck (Oct-2013 to Present):
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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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I cleaned the EGR valve a few months ago when my injectors went out, thinking that it was getting stuck open like you said. I would assume it would still be fine but it is definitely something I should check. I will hopefully get out to the truck here soon and chug it to oreillys to read the code. I will post codes once I get them.
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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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I got the code P0299 turbo/super charger underboost
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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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So, I got to the truck, it started up and ran fine. Drove out of the parking lot and towards oreillys. I stomped on it from a stop and blew a big cloud of smoke that was mostly dark. Parked it at Oreillys and read the code. I got the underboost code so I checked the wires to the turbo and they looked fine so I cleared the code. Started the truck back up and revved it up a few times and the turbo was kicking in just fine. Drove it home (about 17 miles) and it ran fine and didn't blow any smoke, even when I stomped on it.

What do you think could have caused the underboost? A failing turbo? And why would it all the sudden work fine again?

I got this underboost code one time before. It was about 100 miles after the Ford dealer replaced 4 of my injectors. I'm pretty positive they had to remove the turbo to replace the injectors so could they have possibly installed something wrong? Or maybe the turbo is just dirty?

Let me know what you guys think. Thanks
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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 11:09 PM
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If you've had to clean the EGR and it was dirty, you may have a carbon and/or corrosion issue in the VGT section of the turbo. If you're up for it, remove and inspect/clean the turbo. And while you're in there check the unison ring for wear. Be careful to note how it comes apart so that it goes back together correctly. With the VGT stuck wide open, the truck will struggle to get to 2000rpm or so, then boost will shoot up and the truck will suddenly have power. When they stick, you basically have to floor the pedal, they smoke quite a bit, then the truck will clear up and haul cheeks.

The Current Truck (Oct-2013 to Present):
1999 (Early) F-350 Lariat, CCLB, SRW, Black/Tan

7.3L Powerstroke, 4R100, 4x4, 3.73, 37x13.50-18s, '05 Axle Swap, 6" Fabtech lift, GTP38 "D66" turbo upgrade, SCT 4-position chip with custom tuning by me, Straight Piped 4" down pipe through 5" dual stacks, N-Fab full length triple steps, Pro-Tech cab guard and tool box, louvered 5th wheel gate, Hella 500 Fog and Driving lamps, much more to come...
The one I'll miss, (Mar-2009 to Jan-2014):
2000 Excursion XLT 4x4

6.8L V-10, 4R100, 4.30, 285/75-18, 271whp / 388wtq
The one I won't, (Jul-2005 to Sep-2012):
2005 F-350 XLT, CCLB, SRW, 4x4 FX4

6.0L PSD, ZF-6S650, 3.73, 35x12.5-18, 4.5" Lift
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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 06:09 AM
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Sounds like turbo vanes stuck after it was parked all weekend, especially since your getting a PO299 fault code.

Also, if you do pull the egr valve out for cleaning, look down inside the egr valve hole of the intake manifold and check if it is wet in there, if it is, then egr cooler has failed.

I agree with everything Idaho has recommended so far.

Harry

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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-29-2014, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Well it happened again today. First it was boosting super high, then it was all over the place, then no boost at all. I got out, made sure the electrical connection was good and got back in the truck and shut it off. Started it back up and pulled back out onto the road and the boost was all over the place again but it wasn't blowing as much smoke and I was able to get up to speed. Now it's parked for about the next hour so we will see what happens when I start it up again.

Looks like I'm gonna have to pull the egr valve and pull the turbo like you guys recommended. Hopefully the turbo is just sticking.

Could it possibly be the electrical connection to the turbo since my boost was all over the place?

Thanks again guys, I appreciate the help!
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post #9 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-29-2014, 04:35 PM
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No, I would think a sticking turbo before electrical connections. Electrical connections are not generally a problem.

Dave

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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-29-2014, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Any tips for taking the turbo out on an 07? I see there's videos on YouTube but just wondering if you guys have any other tips. Looks like I need to get a turbo rebuild kit for all the O rings and gaskets and some nickel anti seize. Anything else?
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