Ficm or Injectors? or other? - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-29-2014, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Ficm or Injectors? or other?

PROBLEM
so ive had my 6.0 for about 2 month and havent had any issues till about a week ago. every once in a while it would misfire when cold and throw a p0279 injector 7 circuit low. but when warmed up ran great no issues. so a few days ago i went to start it and there was a heavy misfire a lil grayish black smoke and exhaust smelled a little funny. it takes alot longer to rev up and while reving back down it pops almost a backfire. but the p0279 went away and now its p0280 Injector Circuit High - Cylinder 7 code.

WHAT IVE DONE
so ive researched this somewhat and i have done a few resistance test to ground on the injector 7 plug. looked at the wires from the Ficm to the plug and nothing seems to be wrong. ive also checked resistance between Ficm plug and injector 7 plug all there is good also.
i have also checked the Ficm voltage. cold start with key on was 47ish volts and while cranking it droped to 35ish for 2 seconds and back up to 45 for a minute till it started to warm up then 48 and never got below that.
i check resistance on the injector it self and not sure what ohm setting to be on and what its supposed to be.

Please help thanks

2006 f350 lariat 4x4
SCT 5015 with looney wild tune
ARP Headstuds 5in straight back exhaust
4in lift and 35s
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-29-2014, 10:32 PM
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The voltage will never drop below 45 (EVER!) on a good FICM.
Do you have a scanner?
If so look at FICM Main power. If FICM main power is over 11 and yet FICM power supply is less than 47 (under any and all conditions), your FICM is bad.
If you have a scanner that does continuous monitoring (like a scangauge II), by looking at FICM main power voltage at the same time as FICM power supply voltage, you rule out power supply and grounding as possible issues; proving the issue is inside the FICM itself.

06' F250 Mods:

Performance related:
-K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
-Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
-Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
-MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust; cat installed
-SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com

Reliability Mods:
-Refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
-Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
--Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40, Archoil 9100 friction modifier (16 ounces to crank case; 10 ounces to each differential)
--2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (5 oz. Stanadyne every tank)
-Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
-Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.

Miscellaneous:
-1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
-Batteries:
--Original Motorcraft lasted 4 1/2 years
--AutoZone Duralast Gold lasted less than 3 years
---(with 2/0 cables between + terminals)
--Still on 2nd set of Autozone Gold (replaced free)
-Alternator:
--DC Power 185 amp
Future Mods:
-Teflon sway bar bushings
-Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
-Cooling system filter
-OEM HG/ARP studs
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-29-2014, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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ok i have AE with ford bundle. i watched main power and logic power and it was over 11.0 volts. so im guessing Ficm.? but i also did a resistance test on injectors 7 and 5. injector 5 metered under .5 injector 7 metered .5 on one side and 5.5 on another?

2006 f350 lariat 4x4
SCT 5015 with looney wild tune
ARP Headstuds 5in straight back exhaust
4in lift and 35s
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-30-2014, 12:30 AM
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If it were my truck, the first thing I would do is send my FICM to ficmrepair.com.
Then, while it's out being fixed I would replace injector 7.
Then, start it up and see how it runs.

Have you tried AR9100? I started having stiction issues at about 50,000 miles. I started using AR9100 about 65,000. Stiction issues went away and it's been running better and better every oil change. It now has 116,000 miles on it and it's never run better.
The other thing that really helps is cleaning out the fuel system. I put AR6400D in my tank with 12 gallons of fuel. I ran this for at least 100 miles. Then I use Stanadyne performance formula every tank. I put 5 ounces in 20 gallons.
I used to run a cetane booster only 1 in 5 tanks, but now my opinion has changed.

Oh, by the way, thanks for posting your injector coil resistance numbers. I was thinking of doing this myself, but didn't have an idea of what to expect.
That seems like a great test to do. Easy, and if you do have any that are out of norm, they are the ones you want to get rid of. They're not worth rebuilding, if they have a coli issue; best to just replace with new (actually Ford re-manufactured; none of them are truly new any more).

06' F250 Mods:

Performance related:
-K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
-Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
-Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
-MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust; cat installed
-SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com

Reliability Mods:
-Refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
-Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
--Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40, Archoil 9100 friction modifier (16 ounces to crank case; 10 ounces to each differential)
--2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (5 oz. Stanadyne every tank)
-Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
-Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.

Miscellaneous:
-1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
-Batteries:
--Original Motorcraft lasted 4 1/2 years
--AutoZone Duralast Gold lasted less than 3 years
---(with 2/0 cables between + terminals)
--Still on 2nd set of Autozone Gold (replaced free)
-Alternator:
--DC Power 185 amp
Future Mods:
-Teflon sway bar bushings
-Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
-Cooling system filter
-OEM HG/ARP studs

Last edited by bustedknuckles; 09-30-2014 at 12:41 AM.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-07-2014, 03:29 AM Thread Starter
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Alight still having issues. i sent my Ficm into ficmrepair.com and got it repared and a atlis 40 upgrade. so i installed it and started the truck there was still a slight misfire but went away after a minute then it ramdonly DIED. but started right back up. so i drive it around the block all seemed well so i came home and reinstalled my looney tune. started it back up ran for a minute then started same issues again exhuast smelled funny, popping like backfire. so i uninstalled tune but no change. only this time no engine light or codes at all.
whats next?

2006 f350 lariat 4x4
SCT 5015 with looney wild tune
ARP Headstuds 5in straight back exhaust
4in lift and 35s
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-08-2014, 03:31 AM Thread Starter
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ok so getting weirder. started it up today and seemed to run great. drove about 5 miles then died and no start at all now. plugged my AE into it and FICM voltage low code and now only 40 volts though the FICM. i had more then that before i shipped it off?

2006 f350 lariat 4x4
SCT 5015 with looney wild tune
ARP Headstuds 5in straight back exhaust
4in lift and 35s
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-08-2014, 05:14 AM
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Call the people who fixed the FICM and tell them what you have told us. Get their opinion.

Dave

2004 Ford F-350 Regular cab with 6.0.
Completely Stock.

KK6TNI - HAM Radio

http://bennettlaneshopping.com/ - Our Outdoor/Garden and Kitchen Ware store
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-08-2014, 03:24 PM
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I agree with dbennett,

The guy at FICMrepair.com will stand behind his work, if it's not right. I've heard good things about him.

06' F250 Mods:

Performance related:
-K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
-Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
-Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
-MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust; cat installed
-SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com

Reliability Mods:
-Refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
-Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
--Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40, Archoil 9100 friction modifier (16 ounces to crank case; 10 ounces to each differential)
--2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (5 oz. Stanadyne every tank)
-Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
-Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.

Miscellaneous:
-1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
-Batteries:
--Original Motorcraft lasted 4 1/2 years
--AutoZone Duralast Gold lasted less than 3 years
---(with 2/0 cables between + terminals)
--Still on 2nd set of Autozone Gold (replaced free)
-Alternator:
--DC Power 185 amp
Future Mods:
-Teflon sway bar bushings
-Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
-Cooling system filter
-OEM HG/ARP studs
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-08-2014, 07:06 PM
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Before you go any further, you need to check the condition of the harness and the condition of the grounds in particular. Remember, electrical current flows from the negative to the positive, so corrosion or damage to the ground side of your system can result in lower FICM voltage too. Tools like AE are great for operating data, but sometimes a multimeter is a handy way to check for problems you can't see in the live data. Do some resistance checks from the Battery "-" post to the FICM and wiring, there should be minimally any to no resistance. If there is, try adding a jumper from the battery to the ground and recheck the data stream for comparison.


Sent by my right thumb!

The Current Truck (Oct-2013 to Present):
1999 (Early) F-350 Lariat, CCLB, SRW, Black/Tan

7.3L Powerstroke, 4R100, 4x4, 3.73, 37x13.50-18s, '05 Axle Swap, 6" Fabtech lift, GTP38 "D66" turbo upgrade, SCT 4-position chip with custom tuning by me, Straight Piped 4" down pipe through 5" dual stacks, N-Fab full length triple steps, Pro-Tech cab guard and tool box, louvered 5th wheel gate, Hella 500 Fog and Driving lamps, much more to come...
The one I'll miss, (Mar-2009 to Jan-2014):
2000 Excursion XLT 4x4

6.8L V-10, 4R100, 4.30, 285/75-18, 271whp / 388wtq
The one I won't, (Jul-2005 to Sep-2012):
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-08-2014, 08:12 PM
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Bad or corroded grounds cause most electrical problem in all vehicles. Check and clean your grounds, all of them.

Dave

2004 Ford F-350 Regular cab with 6.0.
Completely Stock.

KK6TNI - HAM Radio

http://bennettlaneshopping.com/ - Our Outdoor/Garden and Kitchen Ware store
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