Murphy's Law - 4 Hr Thermostat Change - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-01-2014, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Murphy's Law - 4 Hr Thermostat Change

ECT was only getting up into the 170's so I decided to change out the thermostat on Friday. Everything went pretty smoothly until I tried to disconnect the line from the degas tank to the radiator. Sure as heck, the nipple on the radiator snapped off. I should have stopped right there and gone on line to get a solution, but instead I tried to play it by ear. I figured I would just buy a new nipple with a pipe thread and epoxy it into the top tank instead of buying a new $600 radiator.

I took off to the parts store and it was pretty crowded and there were only two guys working the counter. They treated me like I was just bothering them. The guy I spoke to didn't understand what I was describing and rushed me out the door.

I went down the road to another parts store and the guy behind the counter recommended a fuel line fitting with a 1/2 inch pipe thread on the end. I bought it and headed home, but discovered that the 1/2 drill bit was missing from my drill set. Off to Lowes for another parts run. I epoxied the fitting in, but it's damp around the fitting after I drove about 20 miles.

I did a search on the internet after I had done the work and found a good solution that involves using a 1/4 inch pneumatic fitting. It doesn't involve drilling such a big hole in the radiator and the pneumatic fitting threads go all the way up. The fuel line fitting threads stop about an eighth of an inch before it gets to the hex part of the fitting.

All in all - four hours including two trips to the parts store, a 20 mile test drive, and curing time for the epoxy.

Last edited by mabynack; 12-01-2014 at 02:41 PM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-01-2014, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Still leaking

I just checked and the radiator is still leaking where I epoxied the fitting in. Anyone have a suggestion on what to use to fix it?
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-01-2014, 06:05 PM
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It's probably too late to use this since you drilled a big hole.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...0691/9110061-P

I'd call around to your local salvage yards and find a used one. I put a perfectly good used radiator in my truck when the transmission cooler split open in it.

Won't be a problem finding some dead 6.0 trucks in the yard. Unfortunately.

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-01-2014, 06:28 PM
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If you decide to do a 'new' radiator, weld's suggestion of a sound used part isn't a bad option. Beware of bargain aftermarket radiators, the last two I have used had to be replaced within a year, if you go that route, make sure it's from a local company and that it carries a lifetime warranty.

Also, it you haven't already, remove and lose the fan stator, it simplifies your life not having to remove it to get to the front of the engine for even basic repairs.


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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-01-2014, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to stop by a radiator repair place on the way home tonight and see if they can fix it without having to replace the radiator. I'm really tired of dealing with this mess. I don't want to take it back to the place that did the valve job and EGR bypass because they charged me $1000 over their estimate and took a month to do the job they said would take a week.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-01-2014, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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Great news. The guy at the Radiator shop seems like a real backwoods mechanic. He says he can try to fix it, but worst case he can replace the whole top tank with an aluminum one for about $100.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-02-2014, 03:36 AM
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Awesome Mabynack!

By the way, how are your coolant temps with the new t-stat?

Harry

Jan 03' built 6.0/F250cc4wd trqsft/SCT-tuned by KEM-Performance/Garrett Powermax vg-turbo/blue spring mod/gauges=egt+boost+fuel+SG2/exhaust/airaid intake/DR 4.5 lift/dual bilsteins/315's/greasable ball joints/powerstop/smittybuilt/kc lights/high idle mod/roll-n-lock/Mobil Delvac1 ESP 5W40 with (Archoil AR9100 in the oil) and (AR6200 in the fuel)
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-02-2014, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Perfect. ECT is running 190-191 with EOT at about 195-196. My mileage picked up to 18.1 in town and I was getting 24 mpg when I test drove it out on the highway. Hopefully when I get the radiator repaired on Thursday it will be dependable again.

I'm thinking about going back to a stock tune just to be safe. The extra torque is great, but I need the truck to last now that I'm getting close to retirement.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by mabynack View Post
Perfect. ECT is running 190-191 with EOT at about 195-196. My mileage picked up to 18.1 in town and I was getting 24 mpg when I test drove it out on the highway. Hopefully when I get the radiator repaired on Thursday it will be dependable again.

I'm thinking about going back to a stock tune just to be safe. The extra torque is great, but I need the truck to last now that I'm getting close to retirement.
That's where it should be it will run more efficient now.

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-18-2014, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Just a follow up - apparently the $100 quote was for labor. The guy replaced the top tank with a new design that has a much thicker nipple. The tank was an additional $200. The truck is running great - no leaks and the engine is doing fine after the bulletproofing. I towed my RV last week and had no issues. EOT around 210 and ECT around 204. Ambient temp around 60. I'm going on a longer trip next week.
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