Bucking at 40-50 and hard starting - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2015, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Bucking at 40-50 and hard starting

I read some previous posts and hoped someone could help me with a specific problem. I have an 03 f350 dually with the 6.0 PS turbo.
The engine bucks around 40-50 mph but I can step on the gas and it accelerates thru it. Then while maintaining speed at 40,45,50 it'll start bucking again. The engine runs very rough upon start up, and sounds like it may skip at low idol too. The engine seems to take a few extra cranks to catch and then takes a while to warm up. I checked the codes and get P6075 gp circuit/gp2. Then I cleared the codes
Although I haven't cleaned the egr valve for about a year, my thoughts on the bucking was that it was injector related, and the slow/hard starting was gp related. I put HotShots in and new oil/filter (rotella t 15-40 and motorcraft). I've driven maybe a 100 miles since oil change and still get the bucking. I retested the codes and now I get P6072 coming from the opposite side and not p6075 Wtf. I'll change fuel filters next but I'm not so sure it's going to help. Still for the price, I'll do it for piece of mind.

I realize that if the bucking is from stiction then 100 miles isn't much time for the hotshots to work but I'm concerned that it may be caused from something else.

As far as the glow plug codes go, do you think that the harness itself is bad? The gpcm or the plugs?
I don't have a multimeter to test the plugs and have limited mechanical experience.

Having said that, I am skilled in construction and am not afraid of taking this on without going to the dealer. Especially if it will save me a couple grand...
What are your thoughts on the two problems?
Thanks guys. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2015, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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I miss typed te codes. They were p0675 and P0672. Sorry about that.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2015, 02:05 AM
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Cheapest tool you can buy is a Scangauge II and get more info about engine vitals.

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2015, 03:04 AM
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Like Weld mentioned, the ScanGaugeII is a must have for these trucks. It can read most all the critical data needed for diagnosing a 6.0L PowerStroke.

You may have multiple fault areas causing your symptoms.

The 15w40 oil even with the hotshots is not ideal if you have injector stiction issues. A thinner grade oil works better, like a 5w40 or 10w30 diesel rated motor oil for cold start injector oil flow.

When you first get the truck started, does it smoke badly? White smoke? Black smoke?

My guesstimate of possibilities at this point...

1. one or more faulty injectors

2. stuck/dirty egr valve

3. turbo vanes sticking or worn turbo

4. glow plugs need testing, should all ohm out below 1.2k ohms when they are cold, they can be ohmed out from the glow plug module harness connector for the glow plugs, glow plugs are only active for the first few minutes of cold start up and are a non issue once the engine is running beyond that. You may have a bad GP harness.

5. faulty FICM, should read 47-49v if it's healthy, bad FICM can cause bucking-jerking-hard starting etc...ScanGaugeII can read this and much more.

http://www.scangauge.com/
http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-g...cific-xgauges/

With the ScangaugeII hooked up and programmed with the Ford 6.0L diesel X-gauge commands, you would want to watch your FICM-main power and ICP-psi and IPR% during cold start.

When driving down the road you would want to watch your FICM / Turbo vane position% / boost pressures /

Make sure the obvious is in good order, like clean fuel and air filters.

Harry

Jan 03' built 6.0/F250cc4wd trqsft/SCT-tuned by KEM-Performance/Garrett Powermax vg-turbo/blue spring mod/gauges=egt+boost+fuel+SG2/exhaust/airaid intake/DR 4.5 lift/dual bilsteins/315's/greasable ball joints/powerstop/smittybuilt/kc lights/high idle mod/roll-n-lock/Mobil Delvac1 ESP 5W40 with (Archoil AR9100 in the oil) and (AR6200 in the fuel)
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2015, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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I'm getting white smoke out of the pipe when I start it. Once it warms up the smoke lessens to a normal/minimal amount. While driving, if I increase the rpm to speed up and the truck down shifts I'll get black smoke from the tail pipe.

Is this abnormal?
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2015, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JT817 View Post
I'm getting white smoke out of the pipe when I start it. Once it warms up the smoke lessens to a normal/minimal amount. While driving, if I increase the rpm to speed up and the truck down shifts I'll get black smoke from the tail pipe.

Is this abnormal?
White smoke is normal steam condensation burning off if it's first started in cold weather.

White smoke is not normal if it's first started in warmer dry weather and the smoke smells like raw diesel fuel or coolant.

Black smoke is over fueled cylinder-s that occur from too much fuel being dumped into the cylinder-s like from a faulty injector-s or not enough airflow or turbo boost to properly burn the fuel on hand.

There are so many variables that can cause many of the symptoms you are experiencing. You may want to consider having the truck diagnosed by a reputable local 6.0L specialist that has a well known positive track record for working on these motors. A 1 hr diagnostic fee if properly diagnosed can save you tons of money and help you decide which route to go on the repair process.

Also, if you have a bad injector-s that is dumping fuel into one or more cylinders, it is not something you want to prolong in repairing, as a bad injector can ruin any diesel engine and is the most common cause of melted pistons and ruined cylinders.

Good luck and keep us posted on your outcome, were all here to help and learn.

Harry

Jan 03' built 6.0/F250cc4wd trqsft/SCT-tuned by KEM-Performance/Garrett Powermax vg-turbo/blue spring mod/gauges=egt+boost+fuel+SG2/exhaust/airaid intake/DR 4.5 lift/dual bilsteins/315's/greasable ball joints/powerstop/smittybuilt/kc lights/high idle mod/roll-n-lock/Mobil Delvac1 ESP 5W40 with (Archoil AR9100 in the oil) and (AR6200 in the fuel)
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2015, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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I'm looking into the scangauge and will get it. It seems like a great thing to have. Also, if I have fuel related issues in a cylinder caused by a malfunctioning injector, would I have a code hinting toward this? I have been using a obd2 reader. You're help has been awesome. Thank you
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-15-2015, 04:35 AM
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Alot of times a bad injector will throw a cylinder contribution fault code, but not always.

A bad FICM can also throw a low or high injector circuit fault code, but not always either.

Once you get your ScanGaugeII and program in the X-gauge commands for the Ford 6.0L diesel, then we can see whats going on with some of the readings.

By the way, once the X-gauge commands are coded in, they are always in there to scroll through and look at.

The only thing that does not have a sensor to monitor is primary fuel pressure. The only way to monitor this is with a gauge tapped into the secondary fuel filter housing area on top of the engine next to the oil filter housing, or install a sender and electronic gauge like many have including myself.

Primary fuel pressure should never drop below 45psi or injector damage can occur after prolonged running with low fuel pressures. I have seen a worn regualtor spring running at 25psi. If you install a blue spring fuel pressure regulator upgrade kit it will bump your fuel pressures up into the 60-65 psi range on average, or even as high as 72psi like mine is. This keeps the fuel pressures in check inside the fuel injectors and aids in a cushioning effect for the moving parts like the intensifier piston inside the injector.
The blue spring kit is easy to install and very inexpensive for what it does, I highly recommend it. Heres 2 links below for 2 different ways to do this, I did the complete kit on mine which is also available form the Ford dealer...
http://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/242.html
http://www.mkmcustoms.com/fordbluesp...41EBoCER_w_wcB

Harry

Jan 03' built 6.0/F250cc4wd trqsft/SCT-tuned by KEM-Performance/Garrett Powermax vg-turbo/blue spring mod/gauges=egt+boost+fuel+SG2/exhaust/airaid intake/DR 4.5 lift/dual bilsteins/315's/greasable ball joints/powerstop/smittybuilt/kc lights/high idle mod/roll-n-lock/Mobil Delvac1 ESP 5W40 with (Archoil AR9100 in the oil) and (AR6200 in the fuel)
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-15-2015, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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It'll take me a couple days to get the scangauge. But I will post my results as soon as I get it hooked up. Thank you for your help
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-16-2015, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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I've got the scangauge, new fuel filters, blue spring kit and EGR o-rings on the way. I should have them next week and will clean the EGR valve and install everything next week. I'll let you know what the scangauge says and my results are. Thank you
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