Rear Brake cylinder froze up - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2015, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Brake cylinder froze up

Got home from work Friday and immediately smelled the brakes when I got out of the truck.

Sure enough - passenger side rear was frozen.

Last time I flushed the brakes was 3 years ago. Fluid didn't look terrible, but probably should flush them every two years.

I also decided to redo the drivers side brakes as well, just because the tools were already out - lol. Also took time to install some SS braided hose at each rear brake and also installed speed bleeders all around.

Glad it is done! I already had the pads, I had bought them a few years ago because I figured it would be time at 100k miles, but when I looked at them (at 100k miles), there was more than half of the pad remaining. Even now at 155k, there was a lot left. I am sure impressed w/ the original pads!

Not exactly the first job I wanted to do after shoulder surgery, but oh well!

Mark
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 05:24 AM
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My wife has burned up the brakes twice, maybe 3 times now, I've lost count. Each time was towing the horses in steep mountain grades, but I've come to the conclusion that she dosen't set the trailer brake high enough. But it's always my fault anyway, so I just fix it.

At the begining of this last winter, I noticed my rt-front wheel looking cocked, found the rt-front wheel bearing and hub was totally done-loose-worn out. It was so bad the brake rotor was rubbing into the caliper mounting spindle-bracket, no odd noise or weird handling symptoms at all, but scored the rotor. New hub from Ford and another front set of rotors and pads too.

Bismic...I assume you replaced the rear caliper-s too?

I'll have to look up what speed bleeders are.

Steel braided lines, now that nice, they will last along time, all the ones I've seen sure do.

I almost think the brakes are a bit too small on the single rear wheel trucks for the weight these trucks have.

On the high performance model cars and suv's I work on the brakes are huge, much bigger than the ones on our trucks and these vehicles weigh alot less. Some even have dual sets of brake pads up front, thats 4 brake pads per wheel up front.

Harry

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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It has been quite a while since I have towed anything heavy. That's probably why I still had the pad life left.

I did replace both rear calipers. Only had one new caliper locally, had to go with a remanned for the other. Replaced/greased the slide pins also.

Mark
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 06:37 PM
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Rear Brake cylinder froze up

Rear brake caliper froze up.

Hope your shoulder gets better. Yep, 150k aint too bad.

The brakes were sized for 13.5k commercial use so when you're a consumer driver you can get a lot out of them, and like you had the mechanical issues are usually what get you rather then the wear out. Actually in consumer use they run pretty cool compared to pass cars and SUVs.

Harry the issue to sizing the brake rotors is what size wheel and tire is selected for use on the weight load and how thick the caliper's bridge has too be to withstand spreading, i.e. like what would happen with an over torqued C-clamp. You need the pad assembly to stay as parallel to the rotor's rubbing surfaces as possible. And that bridge thickness is dependent on the size of caliper piston(s) surface area you are going to use.

And the caliper pistons size is limited by how much volume of fluid gets one-stroke pumped by the size of the master cylinder piston, the comfortable amount of pedal travel, the brake pedal ratio and of course the maximum pedal force allowed by law under the FMVSS rules.

After all that we can figure out what friction materiel is going to be needed.

So to use the pun, the brake guys gets squeezed between the application system guys (FMVSS, pedal, booster and master cylinder) and the suspension wheel/tire guys (along with ride height).

And yes it is expected that the trailer will be designed to "carry" it's own braking loads, but a marriage of disc braked vehicles with drum braked trailers is not a good one, just like a disc braked front axle with a drum braked rear axle was never a good one.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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- I stand corrected. This morning when I re-read what I wrote, I was expecting to hear from "someone"!

Brakes still feel a little spongy. I will try bleeding them some more.

Times like this I am especially thankful for the 05+ model year!!

Mark
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 01:42 AM
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Just out of curiosity, and the fact that I'll need brakes in the future, is the go to set to use the Ford pads? I've read good and bad about all the fancier new designs.

Don't mean to jump into the middle of your thread.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 02:28 AM
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Yes, factory pads are best with factory rotors. The aftermarket drilled and slotted brake rotors actually decrease the available brake rotor surface area. The only way those type brake systems are effective is when everything is increased in size to make up for the loss of friction area.

Harry

Jan 03' built 6.0/F250cc4wd trqsft/SCT-tuned by KEM-Performance/Garrett Powermax vg-turbo/blue spring mod/gauges=egt+boost+fuel+SG2/exhaust/airaid intake/DR 4.5 lift/dual bilsteins/315's/greasable ball joints/powerstop/smittybuilt/kc lights/high idle mod/roll-n-lock/Mobil Delvac1 ESP 5W40 with (Archoil AR9100 in the oil) and (AR6200 in the fuel)
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 02:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
- I stand corrected. This morning when I re-read what I wrote, I was expecting to hear from "someone"!

Brakes still feel a little spongy. I will try bleeding them some more.

Times like this I am especially thankful for the 05+ model year!!
Nothing gets past Jack when it comes to brakes, but your not totally off track with the thread name, as the caliper piston is round like a cylinder.

Harry

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 02:34 AM Thread Starter
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Agreed - the factory OE pads are best, BUT - Ford sells different quality pads. Jack informed us of that fact a while back. You want the Ford Premium and not the Motorcraft pads.

05-07 SRW:

Front: BC3Z-2001-C
Rear: 5C3Z-2200-AA

Mark
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 02:39 AM
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Mark,

When I saw that I was "why the h*** did write that?" I've known Mark for many years and I know he knows those aren't wheel cylinders!

Lineman,

The '05+ OE pads were a much better compound then what was selected for the '99-04 platform. It incorporated a higher friction level, a little more rotor abrasive characteristic to keep the rotors true, and kept the OE characteristic of exceptional wear, noise abatement and fade resistance.

Unless there is something you changed in the operating parameters such as a significant increase in tire rolling radius, or heavy tow, those OE (not Motorcraft red box) pads are hard to beat. You can go to Hawk LTS or Porter pads to increase friction levels, reduce pedal force, or get a little more fade resistance, but you do lose out in some of the other characteristics.

On my '03 I'm using the Hawk LTS pads. If I had an '05, I'd be using the OE pads. And I'm not getting anything free these days.

Jack -
Formerly FMTRVT, Manager of Vehicle Testing - Brakes

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