CPS Issue - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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CPS Issue

I need some advice.

Our 2004 F250 Ford truck would not start but cranks over. The Ford dealer said they have to pull the fan, etc. to get to the CPS unit on the front end of the engine block It has been in the shop all day and they figure it will take another day yet to get it replaced. Is this BS or is the CPS that hard to get too?

Thanks for any insights.

John
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2015, 02:20 AM
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The camshaft sensor is called the CMP in a 6.0L.

It is not easy to get at, but you don't have to go to all that trouble.

First though, how do you know you have a bad CMP - they do not go bad very often?

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270AXP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD BilletWaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2015, 02:24 AM
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Location: hidden behind p/s pump driver side. Held in by a 8mm bolt. It is fairly long. You need a 1/4 inch drive ratchet w/ an 8mm socket (swivel socket works best) and a long extension.

CMP Removal from the Ford Workshop Manual:

"1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a lift. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.
2. CAUTION: Make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF position prior to working on the electronic engine controls.
3. Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and remove the accessory drive belt from the power steering pump pulley.
4. Remove the 3 bolts and position the power steering pump aside.
To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
5. NOTE: The CMP sensor is located behind the power steering pump.
Disconnect the camshaft position (CMP) sensor electrical connector.
6. Remove the bolt and the CMP sensor. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position."

Mark
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2015, 02:54 AM Thread Starter
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bismic, thank you for the reply!

Ford dealer said they have to pull the fan, etc. to get to the cam sensor on my F250. Is the CMP the same thing? I was thinking the Cam Sensor was called the Cam Position Sensor (CPS) after doing some research on Google.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2015, 12:51 PM
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I answered those questions earlier. CPS is a 7.3L term. CMP is the 6.0L term.
You do not have to pull the fan. You can even get to it w/ the parts I mentioned without unbolting the P/S pump (it is tight though).

The 6.0L CMP rarely fails. It takes specific troubleshooting to actually properly diagnose a bad one. It should only take a few hours to change one. Sounds like you need to get prepared for a big bill and multiple new parts. Hope I am wrong.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270AXP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD BilletWaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs

Last edited by bismic; 07-30-2015 at 01:04 PM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2015, 01:12 PM
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Sounds like the Ford dealer tech or sevice writer hasn't pulled up the service manual!

Jack -
Formerly FMTRVT, Manager of Vehicle Testing - Brakes

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2015, 01:42 PM
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Also seems like they pulled the codes and saw a P2614 and went right after the CMP (multiple failed starts attempts throwing a false CMP code).

(slight hijack - I sent you a PM Jack - a brake question)

Mark
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 03:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you guys!!

They ended replacing the Crankshaft Sensor (CSS9177) + Anti-Freeze. The labor was about 3x the cost of the parts.

Hopefully this resolves the issue.

The last issue I had was something with the EGR system and that cost around $5 big ones to fix!!
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 09:33 AM
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The crankshaft sensor is called a CKP, and it isn't a frequent failure item either. It is by the A/C compressor. No doubt it is harder to get to than the CMP. Glad its fixed though.

Just curious - how much did they charge?

BTW - the CKP is AT MOST a $46 part (it can be purchased for $30 from AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake with VERY REASONABLE SHIPPING.

Also (IMO) - $5k is too much for any EGR system repair, unless it included head gaskets and studs.

Mark
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Last edited by bismic; 07-31-2015 at 09:45 AM.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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CSS9177 Crankshaft Sensor: $74.76
Labor: $372.00
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