Yet another 6.0 L build - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 04:23 AM Thread Starter
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Yet another 6.0 L build

Ok, since I got the PMax and lost the low end boost I have decided to do a small build.

At the advice of both bismic and harry6.0 I have stepped up for the LWTS from KEM, talked to Mike and it is the works. Got the proper EGR delete and Oil Cooler stuff coming, talking to Dfuser for a coolant filter system.

Now I need a source for head studs and head gaskets. Any good source is appreciated. Not sure about the head gaskets so I need a bit of the site expertise on the subject. Which are good, the best, source, put on dry or with some sort of sealer or coating?

Help and thanks.

Largecar

PS, still digging out from under the destruction of the tornado. And I figure it will take a couple of weeks to do the work myself (my DISH is really kicking in).

LargeCar

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 04:54 AM
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ARP Studs are THE studs to use. And I would recommend factory Head Gaskets. There is one vendor for head gaskets that are as good as Ford, but I don't remember. Harry will be by and he will give you his recommendations and he knows his stuff!

Dave

Dave

2004 Ford F-350 Regular cab with 6.0.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks.

Just a thought, the truck has never in its life puked, so can I get away with just putting studs in with the original gaskets in place. I would do them one stud at a time to not release the crush on the gaskets.

I would use ARP studs, the best price I can find is $425, anybody better?


Thanks

LC

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 04:34 PM
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A couple of us on the site have done them one at a time and as for me I have had no problem at all and I run an SCT scanner and tow a 31 ft 5er RV.
Ed

2005 F-250,XLT Extended Cab,2X4 6.0 363 CID DI V8 ENG.Born 03/05 Metalic silver
American Made in Jefferson County KY.
Torque Shift 5 speed Auto. 373 Gears.[Second Owner]
Refinements Are as follows.
ARP 250-402.PDF Head Studs [One at a time]
Blue spring kit
CCV Mod
EGR Cooler ["GONE"]
Fog Light Mod
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HFCM Valve #6E7Z-9C082-A
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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When doing them one at a time do you take them to full torque as you go, or do you stay shy a bit to go full torque on all at the same time?

Deerman39, what is your total weight, truck+fiver?


LC

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-18-2015, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Got everything on the way to me, truck is 90% torn down waiting for its new stuff.

Going back with Gold coolant.

Is there anything I should be doing while I am there. I already have the upgraded turbo oil hose and tube. But what about other things that need to be upgraded while I am this deep in the engine.

Thanks

LC

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If a country does not remember and honor its fallen heroes of the past, in the future that country will not be honored or remembered.

G.R. Wemmer

A veteran is someone who, at one point in his/her life wrote a blank check made payable to 'The United States of America' for an amount of 'up to and including their life.' That is Honor, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it.

Last edited by LargeCar; 08-18-2015 at 02:55 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-19-2015, 02:05 AM
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I started at the second torque step in the instructions and followed the sequence and steps ARP recommends. You don't want to lose the clamp force the TTY bolts already have in place.

https://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...rp-1-time.html

Over 30k on mine and no issues. The rear ones are tough I had to cut a hole in my AC box and fab a plug afterwards. The driver's side I cut the transfer case loose and used a bottle Jack to push to the drivers frame rail it just cleared the engine compartment wall.

It's not fun but it can be done without removing cab just not comfortable on top of the engine. access is not good everywhere and I had to use a wobble on a couple even though they are not recommended.

I'm glad I did it.

Good luck.

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


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Last edited by Weld engineer; 08-19-2015 at 02:11 AM.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-19-2015, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Weld Engineer, I looked at the link and it make me feel even better about doing it this way. Mine is a rear wheel drive only so I might be better off then most on the rear studs. Nothing wrong with universals in the torque drive as long as they aren't flopped over to far.

LC

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G.R. Wemmer

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-20-2015, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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Oil Change Schedule

I would say off hand that my oil brand (Valvoline Premium Blue) and my intervals (10K oror a year which ever comes first) seems to be doing the trick.




LC

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If a country does not remember and honor its fallen heroes of the past, in the future that country will not be honored or remembered.

G.R. Wemmer

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-21-2015, 04:03 AM
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As far as gaskets go, I would consider the VR Black Diamond.
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