White smoke blue smoke low on coolant whats wrong - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation White smoke blue smoke low on coolant whats wrong

K guys I guess im having a bad month with my 6.0. Now my truck is sputtering when its cold. I just put in diesel clean and now my truck smoke heavey white smoke somtimes its blueish gray other wise white. It sputters real bad when its cold or at initial start up. Even when driving for a while all the sudden it will just smoke the street up with white smoke. When its ideling its blueish in color. Im also very low in coolant im filling it every couple of days Truck seems to run fine havent notices any loss of power. whats wrong. thanks



6.0l, bully dog triple pup, dual 5"bull hauler stacks, strait pipe from turbo back
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 06:51 AM
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you have the same problem im having. Sounds like HGs. Im just lucky and have not blown any white smoke all over to know for sure but im adding coolant every couple days.

Put the truck to stock and see what its like. Mine has no balls what so every and crusing around 70mph my egts can ride around 10000. So im thinking i have 1 or 2 or 3 bad injectors as well. She runs great with the chip so im stickin it out till i know that snow will be gone for 2 weeks plus... and then ill bring her in.




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ARP studs, sct, Leveling kit,Airdog set at 62psi with no factory pump, leveling kit,5" stacks, under cab lights, Large in the way Fan shroud Removed, bed Lights being Re-did. Large Alternator(250amps)(130 amps was so 2003). On 3rd set of Hgs(soon to be 4th), 2nd set of heads, 2nd tubro, egr cooler, FICM and more. When i Turn the Key it does return a Favor, not always in MY Favor.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 07:39 AM
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get the newest flash if you don't have it. it's the first thing the dealer is gonna do and then send you on your way to see if it helps. good luck!

2003 6.0 f250 ccsb 4x4 auto
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darsey715
get the newest flash if you don't have it. it's the first thing the dealer is gonna do and then send you on your way to see if it helps. good luck!
Anyone in their right mind will know that a flash does not fix a coolant loss problem. They might flash it for the smoke but not the coolant problem.




Bill Carriveau OFFICIAL POO HAULER

ARP studs, sct, Leveling kit,Airdog set at 62psi with no factory pump, leveling kit,5" stacks, under cab lights, Large in the way Fan shroud Removed, bed Lights being Re-did. Large Alternator(250amps)(130 amps was so 2003). On 3rd set of Hgs(soon to be 4th), 2nd set of heads, 2nd tubro, egr cooler, FICM and more. When i Turn the Key it does return a Favor, not always in MY Favor.
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Dear Tequila:
We had a deal. You were supposed to make me sexier, smarter and a better dancer. But I saw the video. And I think we need to talk..


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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 09:19 AM
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anyone in their right mind wouldn't sit on tdg 24/7. I didn't say they would flash it for the coolant problem, it's just the first thing the dealer will do considering they have an educated 6.0 tech. He did say it was sputtering WHEN COLD. I'm not trying to diagnose this guys truck over the internet, I can't, I doubt anyone can. Just trying to help him and other posters out by asking if he has the newest flash so they can skip that step and point him in the right direction from there. like I said in my first post which was meant to help, good luck man! Back to the topic.

2003 6.0 f250 ccsb 4x4 auto
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darsey715
anyone in their right mind wouldn't sit on tdg 24/7. I didn't say they would flash it for the coolant problem, it's just the first thing the dealer will do considering they have an educated 6.0 tech. He did say it was sputtering WHEN COLD. I'm not trying to diagnose this guys truck over the internet, I can't, I doubt anyone can. Just trying to help him and other posters out by asking if he has the newest flash so they can skip that step and point him in the right direction from there. like I said in my first post which was meant to help, good luck man! Back to the topic.
Darsey715, i must have underestimated you. I forgot you must know/see all that goes on and know how long people sit on the site because it would take you 24/7 to figure that out, so mind your business if members want to go on the site and for all you know site on it 24/7. Thats how TDG is getting bigger and better.
PS. this is like my 5th post in like a week or more so looks like you dont know jack a bought me.


They dealer knows he has a bigger issue as soon as he says im loosing coolant and blowing white smoke driving and blue at idle.
littlebigrig6.0- just make one trip and save your self the trouble of having to go back again. Don't waist 100 bucks on a flash and then bring it in. Thats just stupid. Most dealers will flash the truck for nothing when doing warranty work and most people dont even know they did it. But if you have a sputtering problem cold they might threw the flash in to see if it helps later but they are going to diagnose the piss out of his truck to find the main problem COOLANT LOSS AND BLOWING WHITE SMOKE. And you said blowing blue smoke at idle after warmed up sounds bad injector or injectors so thats probably the sputtering problem. We are having the same problem, i asked the dealer for just the latest flash and they said if its shuddering its more then just a flash and want to keep it for diagnosis under the warranty.




Bill Carriveau OFFICIAL POO HAULER

ARP studs, sct, Leveling kit,Airdog set at 62psi with no factory pump, leveling kit,5" stacks, under cab lights, Large in the way Fan shroud Removed, bed Lights being Re-did. Large Alternator(250amps)(130 amps was so 2003). On 3rd set of Hgs(soon to be 4th), 2nd set of heads, 2nd tubro, egr cooler, FICM and more. When i Turn the Key it does return a Favor, not always in MY Favor.
Da Rules..Here
http://i449.photobucket.com/albums/q...g?t=1249694332
Windows 7 Takes the WIN!
Windows 8 might take that Win
http://www.bcarriveau.com/
Dear Tequila:
We had a deal. You were supposed to make me sexier, smarter and a better dancer. But I saw the video. And I think we need to talk..


How you name your Thread is Important. Read Here

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 06:00 PM
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What's wrong with 24/7?

It keeps me out of clock towers and shopping malls

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-15-2007, 04:54 PM
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LBR6.0

If you are using that much coolant chances are you have a leaky head and/or some EGR &/or oil cooler issues. It also sounds likely you are having injector issues (stiction, etc). I'd highly recommend getting it checked soon. These motors are strong and will run with huge compression leaks (mine did for months with 6 out of 8 cylinders leaking like crazy), bad injectors and all sorts of other issues but they can only stand so much. Good luck and take her on in for a check-up.:Thumbup:

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-15-2007, 06:25 PM
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a simple statement such as " i hope that the dealer wouldn't send him on his way after performing only a reflash " suggesting to the owner that it would also fix his coolant loss would have sufficed. Suggesting that Darsey (or anyone for that matter) must be out of his mind for making a suggestion like that, then laughing at him for making that suggestion may be a bit harsh. I think i would have gotten upset or defensive also, like darsey.

I agree there is more going on than just injectors.

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-15-2007, 06:31 PM
 
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i will post the newest tsb for coolant bottle overflow here it is it may help some as if you have the egr cooler blocked off you could jump right to test for headgaskets

FORD: 2003-2005 Excursion
2003-2007 F-Super Duty
2004-2007 E-Series


This article supersedes TSB 07-14-5 to update the Part List.

ISSUE:
Some 2003-2007 F-Super Duty, 2003-2005 Excursion and 2004-2007 E-Series vehicles, all equipped with a 6.0L engine, may exhibit coolant venting from the degas bottle cap. The condition typically occurs when operating the vehicle under a load such as trailer towing, uphill driving, or both.

ACTION:
Prior to making any repairs, verify the coolant level is not overfull. The new coolant fill level is at the "MIN" line of the degas bottle cold. Overfilled coolant levels will cause coolant to vent from the degas bottle cap. If the degas bottle is not overfull, and is still venting out coolant, refer to the following Service Procedure.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Complete All Steps In Order As Outlined

Check for cross contamination of engine oil into cooling system by inspecting the coolant condition in the degas bottle. If oil is present in coolant, perform the following repair:
Replace the oil cooler, refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-01C.
NOTE: ON 2004 E-SERIES 6.0L BUILT BEFORE 05/29/2004: IF THE OIL COOLER IS REPLACED, ALSO REPLACE THE HEATER CORE INLET HOSE; THE REVISED HOSE CONTAINS AN INTERNAL FLOW RESTRICTOR (FIGURE 1). REFER TO TSB 05-2-5 FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.





Figure 1 - Article 07-21-5



Clean cooling system with VC-1 Motorcraft® Premium Cooling System Flush. Refer to WSM Section 303-03.
NOTE: IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO FURTHER REMOVE ALL COOLANT HOSES (RADIATOR, DEGAS, AND HEATER) AND CLEAN THEM SEPARATELY. OIL TENDS TO ADHERE TO THE RUBBER AND RESISTS NORMAL FLUSHING.



NOTE: IN EXTREME CASES, THE RADIATOR MAY NEED TO BE REMOVED AND CLEANED IN AN ULTRASONIC CLEANING TANK AT A LOCAL RADIATOR REPAIR FACILITY.



Check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). Then using IDS datalogger, access the following PIDs and road test the vehicle:
Manifold Gauge Pressure (MGP)
Barometric Pressure (BARO)
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)
Exhaust Pressure (EP)
Mass Air Flow (MAF)
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT)
Engine Oil Temperature (EOT)
Verify that MGP, BARO, EGR, EP, MAF and MAP PIDs are within specification, and the EP PID value is within 1.5 psi (10.34 kPa) of the MAP and BARO PID values with key on engine off (KOEO). If PIDs are not within specification, or DTCs are retrieved, refer to PC/ED pinpoint tests. Repair any faults then proceed with the TSB.
NOTE: OVER-BOOST CONDITIONS (HIGHER THAN SPECIFIED MGP) WILL RESULT IN EXCESSIVE CYLINDER PRESSURES, AND MAY BE CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING: IRREGULAR RESPONSE IN VARIABLE GEOMETRY TURBO, BIASED EXHAUST PRESSURE SENSOR, AND/OR IRREGULAR EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION.



Verify that ECT and EOT PIDs are within specified ranges (see PC/ED Section 1: Description and Operation of ECT, EOT). EOT should be about 225° F (107° C) when the ECT is 200° F (93° C). If EOT IS NOT within 25° F (14° C) of ECT during the concern, replace the oil cooler. However, first perform all steps through Step 5 before replacing the oil cooler. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-01C.
Check for proper operation of the pressure cap and its seal to the degas bottle. Do not remove the pressure cap. As shown in (Figure 2), install the pressure tester to one (1) of the two (2) small ports near the top of the bottle. Then isolate the degas bottle by securely pinching off (or plugging) the other intake deaeration (small) line, and the large hose at the bottom of the bottle between the bottle and the tee fitting. Pressurize the degas bottle by using slow and steady pushes on the tester pump handle (not quick jerking pushes). Pressurize the degas bottle until the gauge pressure levels off, typically between 12-18 psi (83-124 kPa).


Figure 2 - Article 07-21-5


Wait 30 seconds, if the gauge holds steady pressure, the pressure cap and degas bottle fill neck lip are good.
If the gauge pressure drops, apply soapy water around the cap to find any leaks. Check the degas bottle fill neck lip for nicks or cracks. Small nicks can be removed by light sanding with fine emery cloth. Re-pressure test, if leaks are still present replace the pressure cap. Re-pressure test again, if leaks are still present replace the degas bottle, Refer to WSM, Section 303-03.
After verifying that the degas bottle and pressure cap are in good condition, proceed to Step 4.
NOTE: A DEFECTIVE EGR COOLER CAN CAUSE COOLANT TO VENT OUT OF THE DEGAS BOTTLE AND APPEAR SIMILAR TO HEADGASKET FAILURE.



EGR COOLER TEST: Install a pressure tester in-line with the degas bottle hose using Rotunda 014-R1068 adapter. (Figure3)


Figure 3 - Article 07-21-5


Pressurize the cooling system until the gauge pressure levels off.
Inspect for external leaks especially in the heater core area. Replace the heater core if necessary, refer to Workshop Manual, Section 412-02. Refill the system and proceed to Step 4c.
NOTE: ON 2004 E-SERIES 6.0L BUILT BEFORE 05/29/2004: IF THE HEATER CORE OR OIL COOLER ARE REPLACED, ALSO REPLACE THE HEATER CORE INLET HOSE; THE REVISED HOSE CONTAINS AN INTERNAL FLOW RESTRICTOR. REFER TO TSB 05-2-5 FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.



Raise rear of vehicle 2' (61 cm) so front of vehicle is angled down. Pressurize cooling system with pressure tester and remove the EGR valve; inspect for coolant in the intake manifold at EGR valve location. Maintain pressure for up to 15 minutes. An EGR cooler gross leak will produce coolant in the intake manifold almost immediately. It will take up to 15 minutes for coolant to be evident in the intake manifold for the smallest EGR cooler leak. If coolant is present in intake replace the EGR cooler; refer to WSM, Section 303-08. (Normally when the EGR cooler has failed, there will be coolant in the exhaust. Hydro locking of the engine is also possible.) Refill the system and proceed to Step 5.
NOTE: REPLACE THE OIL COOLER AT THIS POINT IF NECESSARY AS OUTLINED IN STEP 2.



CAUTION: COOLANT ENTERING ANY COMBUSTION CHAMBER MAY CAUSE A HYDRO LOCK CONDITION. EVACUATE INTAKE PASSAGES AND COMBUSTION CHAMBERS OF ALL LIQUIDS. REMOVE GLOW PLUGS (REFER TO WSM, SECTION 303-07B) TO ASSIST IN VENTING LIQUID FROM COMBUSTION CHAMBERS, BEFORE ENGINE IS STARTED.



With the pressure tester still installed as outlined in Step 4, release cooling system pressure, leaving the tester in place. Seal pressure bleed. Drive the vehicle at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) / high load / maximum boost. Observe whether the cooling system pressure exceeds the holding pressure of 12-18 psi (83-124 kPa) noted in Step 3, and/or if coolant is venting through the degas bottle cap.
If pressure is not greater than the holding pressure noted in Step 3, and no venting from the degas bottle occurs, perform Step 7 (if applicable) and return the vehicle to the customer.
If cooling system pressure is greater than the holding pressure noted in Step 3, and/or the degas bottle cap vents, replace the head gaskets. Refer to WSM, Section 303-01C for head removal/installation and head flatness specification, check the surface of the heads for flatness and/or imperfections. Refer to WSM, Section 303-00 for the cylinder head flatness measuring procedures. Use the following revised head bolt torque sequence and specifications. (Figure4)


Figure 4 - Article 07-21-5


Ensure the cooling system has been thoroughly flushed if any contamination had occurred, and new antifreeze is installed after all repairs have been completed. Refer to WSM, Section 303-03. Make certain to follow the cooling system air bleed procedure, or additional failures may result.
For 2004 (built after 9/29/03)- 2006 F-Super Duty and 2004 (built after 9/29/03) - 2005 Excursion: reprogram the powertrain control module (PCM) to the latest calibration using IDS release B39.12 and higher. This calibration contains a revised cooling fan strategy to help reduce the occurrence of coolant venting. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com.
CYLINDER HEAD HANDLING

Avoid banging, dragging or scratching the cylinder head at all times. When removing the cylinder head, lift the cylinder head straight up off of the dowels so as not to nick the cylinder head.
Once the cylinder head is removed, place the cylinder head on a bench with the gasket side up. If the gasket surface must be turned down, use a piece of clean cardboard on the bench surface to protect the cylinder head from damage. Do not allow the cylinder head to slide on the gasket surface, even on cardboard.
CLEANING THE CYLINDER HEAD AND DECK SURFACE

The only tools approved by Ford Motor Company for cleaning the cylinder head and deck surface are plastic (Figure 5) and wood scrapers, combined with use of Ford approved cleaners. Ensure that the mating cylinder block deck surface is completely free of solid contamination, corrosion, and fluids.

NOTE: STAINING OF THE METAL SURFACE IS CONSIDERED NORMAL AND DOES NOT AFFECT SEALING ABILITY.



CAUTION: DO NOT CLEAN DECK SURFACES UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE WITH STEEL RAZOR BLADES, ROTARY ABRASIVE DEVICES, OR ABRASIVES INCLUDING: ROLOC AND 3M BRANDED SCOTCHBRITE PRODUCTS OR EQUIVALENTS, ROTARY WIRE BRUSHES, SINGLE HANDLED WIRE BRUSHES, HAND ABRASIVES SUCH AS SANDPAPER OR EMERY CLOTH, ANY CARBON STEEL BLADE. THESE PRODUCTS WILL CUT AND DAMAGE DECK SURFACES RESULTING IN LEAKS. ABRASIVE PARTICLES MAY ALSO ENTER THE ENGINE CAVITIES CAUSING INTERNAL ENGINE DAMAGE. USE OF THESE TOOLS CAN ALSO GREATLY AFFECT THE FLATNESS OF THE SURFACE.




well i hope this will help someone here
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