who can give me the right answer to D/W - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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who can give me the right answer to D/W

My buddy has a 07 6.7 mega cab 2500 4x4 with only 34,000 on it he is getting the death woble when hitting a bump. seems like it is only over 45-50 mph

I dont see any movement in the track bar. I removed it and the bushings look new. I read some where that they need more camber when this happens. how do I add camber?

the guy told me to put a new stableizer and a new factory track bar on it but I hate to throw parts at trucks. what are your thoughts?

oh yeh his tires are perfect they are stock tires and there is NO cupping at all that is what makes me think that the thing i read about adding camber just may be right.

08 F-350 crew cab Lariat 4X4 Dually auto 4:10 gears.
rideing on Hankook Dyna pro AT's

Last edited by Diesel Dave 04; 11-25-2012 at 09:42 PM.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 10:44 PM
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http://www.dieselperformance.com/ind...uct/index/151P

This seems to be the fix. There are plenty out there.

2002 F-350 CC, Shortbed, 4X4, rebuilt 7.3, EBV brake, 4" dual exhaust, B&D compressor wheel, head studs, Gear head performance 6 pos, Banks Big Head, built 4R100 w/triple disc torque conv, Shift kit, 204K, B&W Hitch and 5th wheel companion, Superlift Air Bags, 35 x 12.50 x 17 BFG KM2:

The veiws expressed are purely opinion. I in no way take responsibility for any actions or damage as a result of trying this at home.

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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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well his truck drives great, just when you hit a bump it goes into the death wobble the tires go right and left at a rapid pace untill you all but stop and start again. I think that is has to do with the caster adj. He added a leveing kit when the truck was new and I think that changed the caster and that it is only showing up now because things are wearing. it only has 34,000 miles and the tires are still at 25% with no cupping showing. adding the leving kit would roll the axle fwd. and that would change the caster to all but 0 and should it not be + 3 to 4*. any one know?

08 F-350 crew cab Lariat 4X4 Dually auto 4:10 gears.
rideing on Hankook Dyna pro AT's

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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I found this on dodge alignment.


Alignment programs (and service manuals I believe), give a wide
acceptable range for front caster on the 4x4 Rams. I believe the range
is 2 degrees to 5 degrees (if that's not correct, it's pretty close).
The problem occurs when the alignment tech (independent or dealer)
tells you that the measurements "checked out fine", just because they
were in this broad range of acceptance.
Caster readings that fall on either end of the scale are subject to
caster shimmy, even though they are "acceptable". I had to align some
30 trucks and attend a 9 hour "Dodge Ram Chassis Dynamics Diagnostics"
training session (fancy name, ehh?), before finding out that 3 degrees
to 4 degrees is the optimal caster setting for 4x4 Rams that eliminates
caster shimmy.
Below I will post what specifications I set Ram trucks to. First
I want to give a little more info on correct Ram alignments so you can
see if you had a job well done,
The eccentrics on the lower control arms ARE NOT for individual
wheel caster adjustments (even though our alignment machine says they
are). The eccentric sleeves in the upper ball joints are for adjusting
individual camber and total cross caster (difference in caster between
two front wheels). This is why replacement eccentrics are positionable
in eight different ways.
Once camber and cross caster are attained with the eccentrics, the
lower control arm eccentrics are then used to swing the caster readings
into specifications. The two eccentrics must be swung in the SAME
direction in EQUAL amounts. If they are not, it will create a setback
condition (one front wheel further forward than the other).
FYI - Comparing between the two front wheels, caster will cause a
pull to the smaller value and camber will cause a pull to the larger
value. A truck set up with caster pulling in one direction and camber
pulling in the other direction, can lead to a wandering truck; even
though it is "in specifications"!!!!!!
If the eccentrics on the lower control arms of your truck are not
pointing the same direction, the alignment was done incorrectly and the
axle was "twisted" or "forced" into position to attain the acceptable
values (seen them from the factory this way, go figure).
A correct alignment will set the truck up with a slight negative
cross caster (truck has slight pull to left) to compensate for right
hand road crown. Camber will be equal side to side slightly on the
negative side. This will help maintain acceptable camber when hauling
heavy loads, as the truck tends to lift in the front when towing.
Camber will then fall slightly positive when towing.
Just because the alignment shop says "it's in specifications", that
does not mean it is set up for proper performance and handling!!!!!!!!!
Specifications (my personal settings for every Ram I align): all specs
below are in degrees.


Left Wheel Right Wheel
-------------- ----------------

Caster 3.2 3.5
Cross Caster -.3

Camber -.10 -.10
Cross Camber 0.0

Toe - standard specs, (maybe a little out if you tow a lot, they will
pull in as the front end lifts up).

Brent
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 02:47 PM
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The front ends in the Dodge are a weak point. Here is my idea that I will do on the 12 when the time comes.

Maxx Sway Bar endlinks
The Above support bar
Bilstien shocks and stabilizer
Moog grease-able Ball joints (If I hit the lottery Carli)
Spicer grease able axle joints and U-Joints.
I has this planned with my 07.5 but never got there. Im still on the fence about a Warn lock out kit but that may be an option too.

Dave I am not saying that you need to do all of this this is just an idea on how to build a more bullet proof front end.

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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel Dave 04 View Post
well his truck drives great, just when you hit a bump it goes into the death wobble the tires go right and left at a rapid pace untill you all but stop and start again. I think that is has to do with the caster adj. He added a leveing kit when the truck was new and I think that changed the caster and that it is only showing up now because things are wearing. it only has 34,000 miles and the tires are still at 25% with no cupping showing. adding the leving kit would roll the axle fwd. and that would change the caster to all but 0 and should it not be + 3 to 4*. any one know?
Did he get a longer shock to compensate for the leveling kit? I have heard many guys having ride issue and this was corrected with going with a bit long shock. Such as a Bilstien 5100. ( 0-2" of lift)

"Only accurate rifles are interesting" -Townsend Whelen

2012 Ram 2500 Crew Cab Big Horn
6.7L 68RFE 4wd
Yeah its stock.
Edge Insight CTS / Line-X / Access Bed Cover
B&W Turnover Ball / Companion Hitch
Pac Brake Air Bags
On Board Air
Optima Redtop 34Rs


2010 John Deere 2305
2010 Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimited Rubicon/ Tuned with some toys.
2016 Keystone Impact 311 Toyhauler






9-11-2001 NEVER FORGET
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 02:39 AM
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Sounds like am alignment issue or shocks as Neel suggested. 140,000 miles on my 07, and still original front end except for shocks replaced once and I haven't had the DW, even when bumper pulling which unloads the front end.

I have had it on my 96 tug but it has 12-16.5 10 ply skid steer loader tires on the front (see picture)

and they are much heavier then highway tires. In its case it was the track bar bushings were worn, it doesn't take much wear to get the DW.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 03:08 AM Thread Starter
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well tonight i tryed to add caster by turning the trunion bolts on the bottom arm. it did not fix the issue. I tried rotating the tires and it still does it. I think we should remove the leveing kit. im not sure what to do at this point.
he also has a small coolent leak I cant see where it is coming from it looks like maybe the water pump seal to the block, it drips off the A/C compressor.

08 F-350 crew cab Lariat 4X4 Dually auto 4:10 gears.
rideing on Hankook Dyna pro AT's
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 02:04 PM
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Dave,

For your water leak, there is an oring behind the water pump. If you remove the air intake and take the belt loose you can get the water pump really easy. Also check the thermostat housing.


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"Only accurate rifles are interesting" -Townsend Whelen

2012 Ram 2500 Crew Cab Big Horn
6.7L 68RFE 4wd
Yeah its stock.
Edge Insight CTS / Line-X / Access Bed Cover
B&W Turnover Ball / Companion Hitch
Pac Brake Air Bags
On Board Air
Optima Redtop 34Rs


2010 John Deere 2305
2010 Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimited Rubicon/ Tuned with some toys.
2016 Keystone Impact 311 Toyhauler






9-11-2001 NEVER FORGET
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 02:42 PM
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If you want to see if it is on the list. http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls...e&refurl=email The repair above still fixes the geometry of the steering since it drops it to compensate for the leveling kit. Fixed the problem on a 2007 Mega cab.

2002 F-350 CC, Shortbed, 4X4, rebuilt 7.3, EBV brake, 4" dual exhaust, B&D compressor wheel, head studs, Gear head performance 6 pos, Banks Big Head, built 4R100 w/triple disc torque conv, Shift kit, 204K, B&W Hitch and 5th wheel companion, Superlift Air Bags, 35 x 12.50 x 17 BFG KM2:

The veiws expressed are purely opinion. I in no way take responsibility for any actions or damage as a result of trying this at home.

Local 3 OPERATORS UNION

2005 Chevy 7500 C-7/Allison, Service box off of my '93 Int

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