Wet sanding? - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-26-2006, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
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Wet sanding?

What should I use as the WET part of wetsanding? I got some 800, and 1000grit to sand with.

I was thinking of using wheel cleaner to eat through the existing grease, and using brake clean to rinse with and wipe down between steps.

I'm polishing my intercooler pipes and applying a high temp clear.

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2006, 12:25 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WNYPA
What should I use as the WET part of wetsanding? I got some 800, and 1000grit to sand with.

I was thinking of using wheel cleaner to eat through the existing grease, and using brake clean to rinse with and wipe down between steps.

I'm polishing my intercooler pipes and applying a high temp clear.
What exactly are you wet sanding??

If your polishing up the intercooler pipes are they now painted?

Are they steel or aluminum?

Sounds like you don't need to wet sand anything if all your doing is polishing the intercooler piping.....

If the piping IS aluminum I have a different way about doing the clear. (you won't need it- and no future chips in clearcoating that are easily spotted.)
Please explain.... :
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2006, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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They are aluminized-Steel pipes, I've ground/sanded off the aluminium coating, and have just bare steel, but still have some swirl marks in the steel form the sanding process.

Here are som photos:






2000 F-350 NVK5, XLT Island Blue 7.3 PSD 3:73LS Reg Cab LB, 151,000 mi. and counting! STOCK EXCEPT:BTS Transmission, 6.0 Trans Cooler, AutoEnginuity 3.4, GI-normous, Home made Tymar, CCV mod, HX-MOD, Heater-plug mod, "Custom 6-pos Chip", Autometer Z-Series Gauge pod, Beans Stage 2 Single-Shots, Zerex G-05 Coolant, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X869/Sirius Satilite, 8" Fisher plow, 407.1 hp / 849.1 ftlbs 13.686 @96.69
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2006, 09:20 PM
 
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nice looking... pipes you got there

the wet sanding is basically to provide a lubricant for the sandpaper to glide over the paint to protect it from heat and wash away all the trash that builds up on the paper sanding

with your application i really don't think it would be necessary to wet sand

i hope your going to use a power/air sander because thats going to take awhile.... and your still going to have to go back over it with a polisher/buffer with some type of polishing compound to make it shine like a mirror... but if you take your time the result with be well worth the effort

i thought the pipes was aluminum as well... does a magnet stick to it? if they are aluminum i would leave the clear off to
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2006, 09:36 PM
 
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The magnet will stick from what I've heard... There was deffinately an aluminium coating like a galvanized coating of some sort, that was somewhat thin but a real PITA to get off.

I've been using my drill with vatious bits to get them to this point... right now they look slightly more brilliant than polished 304. I honestly don't think I'm going to go much more than that. as I need to invest in a good polisher/buffer to really do some work.

today I did get a quart 3m polishing compound, and swirl remover I plan on using on the clear coat.

This is kind of an experiment. never done this kind of stuff before, but Its not too bad, alot of time... but I think once these are done, I might get crazy with some of the other stuff under the hood.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2006, 09:45 PM
 
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make sure all of the galvanized coating is removed.. if its not your clear will pitch a fit

what kind of clear are you using?

I'm interested in how they turn out... be sure to post some pics when your done I'd like to see them, i like project like this that will set your truck apart from everone else but aren't too teribly spendy
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2006, 09:50 PM
 
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Being a new bee at this stuff its actually getting kinda spendy, I've got 150 into it right now... but really alot of that is learning that the first tool/polish I got won't work.

The clear I got is just a spray can I got at the car-parts store, its a ceramic high temp rated at 500 deg. but I did do a little test area on the pipes and it lays on pretty good, and is decent finish for the 6 bucks I spent on it.

Do you have any recommendations on what kind of Polisher/buffer I should get for removing light scratches on the rest of the truck. and for applying/ removing wax?

I don't have air yet so it'll have to be electric. I was looking at a 3k RPM makita, or dewalt.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2006, 09:52 PM
 
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Starting on the second pipe tonight. the first isn't done yet, but the other one has all the fiberglass and glue crap on it and I anticipate this one will be a real hassle... Turpentine (Genuine) won't take the glue off, I've tried a variety of solvants and nothing has worked yet, I suspect it will take a few hours with the wire wheels.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2006, 10:00 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RochesterDiesel

Do you have any recommendations on what kind of Polisher/buffer I should get for removing light scratches on the rest of the truck. and for applying/ removing wax?

I don't have air yet so it'll have to be electric. I was looking at a 3k RPM makita, or dewalt.
The dewalt polishers (model 849) are the best in my opinion for the electrics... as for how to remove wax that is easy (if i understand the question) just wash your truck with dishwashing soap a couple of times.. that crap will remove wax like no tomorrow

the dewalt will remove light scratches and apply wax but i would recomend practicing on a old car or panel before you jump on your truck as you can booger up your paint if aren't used to how one works
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2006, 10:32 PM
 
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I've got a 98 merc tracer perfect for that, has tons of scratches I can practice on.

Thanks for all of your help I really appriciate it!
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