Painting Watercraft or ATV's - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-12-2006, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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Painting Watercraft or ATV's

So what is the trick to getting paint to stick on a jet ski or fiberglass boat... i have seen some that have beautiful paint jobs, I have allways been too scared to paint one because of durability issues, mainly the paint/clear coat staying on over any length of time.

Also what about a ATV... i can get the paint to flex enough not to bust but I'm not sure about prep and adheasion.

If anyone has pictures i'd like to see them of boat paint jobs, it doesn't have to be your work.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-13-2006, 01:19 AM
 
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rough it up real good with a fine sandpaper and use some of that krylon fusion for plastic it looks good for about a year or two depending on how you ride
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-30-2006, 07:12 PM
 
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Epoxy over 80 grit scratches makes the best 'base'.

Best bet is wait overnight before top coating the epoxy.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-30-2006, 07:14 PM
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what about an aluminum boat?
painting in the winter..minimum temp?

Life changes, so roll with it, not against it.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-01-2006, 07:05 AM
 
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well, Im not too sure about the epoxy over 80 grit, you would have to lay it on pretty thick to cover. there is a flex additive you can buy and put into your base and clear, it adds a lot of stretch to the paint. when I do boats and street bikes, I use stuff called bulldog first, its a spray can stuff that helps paint adhear to plastics, fiberglass, stuff like that. when I got back into painting, a friend of mine had a bunch of different candy colors left over from custom stuff, we mixed it all together and painted his brothers bass boat. 220 grit, silver base, probably 6 coats to fill the scratches, then layers and layers of what ended up being a reddish purple candy paint. that was about 4 years ago, only problem so far has been the top gets hotter than hell from sitting in the sun.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-01-2006, 07:01 PM
 
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Due to a national VOC rule change in the last 12-18 months know that epoxy resins have changed. This resin change now requires 80 grit scratches over bare substrates such as Al or metals in order to achieve maximum adhesion which also leads to maximum corrosion resistance.

Now, you can still use epoxies as a sealer over your already primed/e-coated/bondo'd surfaces with say a 180-320 grit scratch but you are using it as a pre-painting/topcoating sealer in this situation.

The epoxy we make will cover 80 grit sand scratches all day long in 2 coats and can be sanded to fine powder with a DA 'overnight' when its 65 degrees or warmer.

If it were my sea doo I would buzz the already clean surface dull with 80 on a DA (you could use 180 but I would use 80) and apply one medium-wet coat (epoxy are never to be used as a 'filling' primer) wait at least 10 minutes then apply a second medium-wet coat of epoxy. Assuming it were 70 degrees or warmer and had to be painted that day, I would wait 60 minutes before applying the base over the epoxy (no need to sand just lightly wipe it with a tack cloth to remove any dust for a clean job).

The most ideal, though not required, situation would be wait overnight before applying the base. My epoxy wouldn't need to be sanded at this point (up to 7 days later) and I would simply wash and dry the surface to paint using wax and grease remover then hit it with a tack cloth just before applying base.

As far as flex agents go I can't think of a readily available paint line that would need flex agent on their basecoat or clear when used on a sea doo regardless of how hard you beat hull. If they recommend it and you want to buy it go for it. While using a flex agent might sound like cheap insurance the fact is the vast majority of flex agents you will find at the local paint stores are designed only to remain flexible long enough for say a flimsy 1990 yellow urethane bumper to be mounted back on the car. The added flexibilty goes away within 48 hrs or so.

I bet 90% of the situations flex agent is used its not even needed but if you can convince every painter using your product that it's required those pints and quarts of flex agent really add to the paint companies bottom line. Bases and clears get their flexibility and rock chip resistance from the resin system used. The better the resin used the more permanent flexibility and rock chip resistance you will have.

I can tell you for a fact we don't recommend flex agent for our basecoats or clears regardless of how flimsy the substrate (usually a painter inquires about a bumper) is. It's simply not needed and we have 10 years of sales to prove it.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-01-2006, 07:16 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcannon
what about an aluminum boat?
painting in the winter..minimum temp?
Due to epoxy being a non-isocyanate cure metal/substrate temp before and after applying epoxy is critical in the winter months because epoxies become dormant faster than 2K primers as the air temp drops.

I would want a 60 degree or warmer substrate during and 4 hours (longer is better) after applying epoxy. Worst case pull it out to warm up in the sun on a cold day but keep in mind epoxies by nature acquire maximum adhesion and corrosion resistance after 7 days @ 70 degrees.

Metal temps inside a building are always 4-10 degrees cooler (depends on the 'metal') than the air temperature and that's assuming the air temp has been consistent. If it has been in a 30 degree barn all night and the air temp happens to now be 65 because you just ran a Reddy Heat heater for 2 hours the metal is still going to be very cold so be very careful.

Also, while not critical on an old jon boat, know that while Al doesn't rust it does produce a film almost instantly once you strip it back down to the bare Al and its exposed to air. On something critical like the restoration of an old Land Rover or MB I would suggest stripping one panel at a time with 80 grit then as soon as possible wash with a waterborne wax and grease remover while drying with a seperate clean towel. Then immediately follow with epoxy. This gives you maximum adhesion on Al.

Please be aware that many nationally know epoxies have been cheapened over the years and just because it was recommended for use on Al or bare metal the last time you used it 1, 5 or 10 years ago doesn't mean that is still true. Ask your paint jobber then verify it through official online data sheets since the jobbers don't always have the latest info.

The last thing you want is to buy is an epoxy that requires etching primer underneath it. Not only is this a waste of time and money when you can find epoxies that still stick to bare metals and Al but acid etching primers (glorified hybrid latex which is why it comes in a plastic jug) can be a disaster long term because over time UV light will re-flow solvents in the paint and primers which need a place to go. These solvents can and will re-flow the latex like etch primer and cause small bubbles in the paint usually on top surfaces. If you carefully pop these bubbles you will see a small amount of rusty water and corroded metal underneath. The solvent reflowed the acid etch releasing water which causes the rust.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-06-2006, 05:54 PM
 
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TooMuchBoost..... just curious, who's the "we" you speak of?
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-12-2006, 01:35 AM
 
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I would use graphics maybe a base coat for background color but something like APE Wraps or even a design from your local vinyl cutter would be best for the PWC and ATV
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