Muratic acid for removing rust - Diesel Truck Forum -
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 07-12-2006, 05:33 AM Thread Starter
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Muratic acid for removing rust

Well the title says it all. I have a fresh air system to avoid the fumes. Trying to cut costs. I have used oxisolv and it's to slow and 4X the price. Thinking of a good wire brushing on the frame, then the MR acid and after neutralizing it, a few minutes of oxisolv to deposit a zinc phosphate coating ready for epoxy primer. Pros and cons welcome. At best i'm only going to get 3 sides of the frame without removing fuel tanks and lines. ANY BODY USED IT?
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 07-14-2006, 07:51 PM
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I have used it but not exactly how your using it....

I used it to remove some rust down in some pitting on a hood... very small amout and not very bad, i would have use a DA but it was in a place where it was hard to sand and i didn't want to rought it up too bad... it worked ok on light rust, i wouldn't trust it for anything over very light rust though.

I usually just use a wire brush on the frames and call it a day... I'd put some good epoxy primer on the bare metal to seal it up the top coat it with your choice
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 07-15-2006, 05:55 AM Thread Starter
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I did some tests in a jar on rusty parts and a lot of research. Very quick removal and it etches metal, but hazardous. Estimate 15 minutes of wetting on a frame to clean metal. Ammonia mixed 3 to one with water will neutralize it. Of course flash rust will set in from the water in the rinse. A wiping of oxisolv will remove that and leave the surface ready for paint. Let me say this isn't for the do it yourselfer. You need a fresh air system to avoid fumes that will harm your lungs, rubber suit and skin protection and most of all eye protection, it will blind you. Plus no tree hugger neighbors. This is real acid that is sold in much milder water neutralized concentrations in commercial chemical rust removers. A loop hole because pool suppliers and hard ware stores can still sell it. It will kill plants/grass--be careful and read up on it if you use it. Use the others if you have parts small enough to dip. My concern was to neutralize it so it wouldn't blister back thru paint. I know wire brushing and paint is the most people want to do with most frames due to cost. But rust will continue under fresh paint without total removal. Heres what i'm going to do: a section of the frame as above with epoxy primer, N see how it goes.
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