Best Wax To Make Dull Paint Shine - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-26-2007, 01:52 AM Thread Starter
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Best Wax To Make Dull Paint Shine

Hey, I was wondering, our truck's paint is really dull, is there any way to make it shine like almost brand new. Most waxes we try make it a little better, but never shiny.

2001 Chevy SB/CC Duramax LB7

Garrett GT4088R from PPE, PPE Duel fuelers, PPE Tuning, PPE stage 4 transmission w/suncoast 1056 converter, PPE Lift pump, Fabtech tie rods, Black Eagle alloys.
Engine is apart and in the garage
Goal is to have it done by the end of this summer.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-26-2007, 06:13 AM
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How long do you want it to look shiny? Day? wipe it down with kerosene.
Year? Fiberglass restoration products, I think that they are boiled linseed oil. Wash it and clean the stains, then wipe the stuff on. It soaks into the paint chalk and dries. 2-3 coats and most paint will buff to a shine and last about a year.

Color sand and clearcoat will look good for 10 years.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-26-2007, 02:59 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselson
Hey, I was wondering, our truck's paint is really dull, is there any way to make it shine like almost brand new. Most waxes we try make it a little better, but never shiny.
Most waxes just add a layer of shine and help to protect the paint from the elements. To make the paint 'POP' again you need a good polish. Polishing the paint is what actually cleans the paint and helps to restore the "Like New" finish. Once you have polished your paint, then you want to apply your wax, which will seal the shine in.

A few questions: What color is your truck and do you plan to polish it by hand or with a Polisher?

Thanks!:Thumbup:

-Dale
post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-28-2007, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
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Most waxes just add a layer of shine and help to protect the paint from the elements. To make the paint 'POP' again you need a good polish. Polishing the paint is what actually cleans the paint and helps to restore the "Like New" finish. Once you have polished your paint, then you want to apply your wax, which will seal the shine in.

A few questions: What color is your truck and do you plan to polish it by hand or with a Polisher?

Thanks!:Thumbup:

-Dale
The truck is white, and we usually do it by hand. By the way, you guys have a both at our local marketplace, we will check it out sometime :Thumbup:

2001 Chevy SB/CC Duramax LB7

Garrett GT4088R from PPE, PPE Duel fuelers, PPE Tuning, PPE stage 4 transmission w/suncoast 1056 converter, PPE Lift pump, Fabtech tie rods, Black Eagle alloys.
Engine is apart and in the garage
Goal is to have it done by the end of this summer.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-29-2007, 02:25 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselson
The truck is white, and we usually do it by hand. By the way, you guys have a both at our local marketplace, we will check it out sometime :Thumbup:
Correct, we have a booth at the Orange County Swap Meet every weekend. We have a great staff who run that event and will be willing to help you with your detailing needs.

For polishing your truck by hand, I would check out our Revive Polish. The Revive will help to clean the paint and remove any oxidation or haze that may be in the finish. Once you have polished the entire truck, you want to apply your wax for protection and shine.

Thanks and let me know if you have additional questions!
post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-31-2007, 04:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I will check it out :Thumbup:

2001 Chevy SB/CC Duramax LB7

Garrett GT4088R from PPE, PPE Duel fuelers, PPE Tuning, PPE stage 4 transmission w/suncoast 1056 converter, PPE Lift pump, Fabtech tie rods, Black Eagle alloys.
Engine is apart and in the garage
Goal is to have it done by the end of this summer.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-29-2007, 03:24 AM
 
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I remember prepping my brother-in-law's car many years ago to be put on sale. the paint was oxidized and dull, I made the car look wet with Meguires body cleaner and an orbital buffer. He really didn't want to sell it after that. I've been a fan of Meguires since.

So if my parents start talking about a new car, I give them a detail. And they tend to keep their car longer.

Course I'm always up to hear of products that work.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-29-2007, 11:58 PM
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Just like what Dale said, you need to start with a polish, then wax. There are tons of great products out there that you can use. But, then again, there are also tons of totally worthless products out there that you can use.

And Dale, you've got a booth at the OC swap meet? I'll have to check it out next time I'm in California land. Nobody out here carries Adams stuff.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-30-2007, 01:27 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaairman
Just like what Dale said, you need to start with a polish, then wax. There are tons of great products out there that you can use. But, then again, there are also tons of totally worthless products out there that you can use.

And Dale, you've got a booth at the OC swap meet? I'll have to check it out next time I'm in California land. Nobody out here carries Adams stuff.
Zaairman,

That is correct,

We are at the Orange County Swap Meet every weekend!

Thanks for checking us out!

-Dale
post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-17-2007, 11:04 PM
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My take on it Dieselson..

Depending on the age of your truck, as the old way was to use a T-Cut to revive dull flat or paint showing oxidation.. T-Cut was simply a brand name for a fine rubbing compound that would take fine layer of paint off leaving it as though it looked just painted and polished in the factory, The very best polish that I've come across is one that is usually called something like laser glaze.. The procedure works like this.. Your first coat is applied only once as this seals the paint at the molecular level.. You then use the other type that will bring it to a showroom shine as all the small unseen holes in the paint are filled.

As lots of pointed out that most of the modern polish will work in a similar way to the above rubbing compound i.e. removing all the road tar plus any oxidation that has built up since the last time it was polished.

One final note, most modern day car paints are polished in the factory then sealed with a clear lacquer therefore any wax protection is better than none IMHO that is, though the manufactures recommend that you need only use water with little or no detergent to wash the vehicle. I have the clear lacquer on my car though I prefer to use the Laser Glaze type product 2 times per year.. Though I should warn you if you can obtain it the price will be high. You will most probably find this product via a TV shopping channel or perhaps on the net, The last time a purchased it the cost was around 35 though it does last quite a while.

I own a Ford Maverick 3ltr V6 4x4 Auto as sold in the UK, Ford stopped selling them as they now own Landrover UK (They were competing against themselves) I would love to add accessories to it though finding them is the issue. Its also known as the Escape in the US. They are also sold by Mazda as the Tribute in the UK. I do know one thing for sure.. My actual paint colour is produced by Mazda
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