small rust spots - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 05:08 AM Thread Starter
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small rust spots

not very big at all and in weird spots, like in the middle of my door.

again these are very small. think maybe its just in the cleaner cote?




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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 10:30 AM
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Bill, what you have are very common. They are often from rail dust during transport, brake dust, etc. To remove them use a clay bar kit. It can take some time, but eventually the clay bar will remove the "stain" as well as the impurity that caused it. I hope that this helps. Chris

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UpstateDieselGuy View Post
Bill, what you have are very common. They are often from rail dust during transport, brake dust, etc. To remove them use a clay bar kit. It can take some time, but eventually the clay bar will remove the "stain" as well as the impurity that caused it. I hope that this helps. Chris

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 11:04 AM
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got a pic? if there is one i cant see it

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, i will try and get a pic later this week.




Bill Carriveau OFFICIAL POO HAULER

ARP studs, sct, Leveling kit,Airdog set at 62psi with no factory pump, leveling kit,5" stacks, under cab lights, Large in the way Fan shroud Removed, bed Lights being Re-did. Large Alternator(250amps)(130 amps was so 2003). On 3rd set of Hgs(soon to be 4th), 2nd set of heads, 2nd tubro, egr cooler, FICM and more. When i Turn the Key it does return a Favor, not always in MY Favor.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-02-2009, 01:37 AM
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+1 on the claybar, but just a tidbit, to prevent rust, white lithium grease is good to spray on door jambs, rockers, cab corners, fender lips, it creates a layer of protection that chloride and salt and whatever other **** they put on these roads can't get through, it hardens and becomes stick. works very well.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-02-2009, 09:58 AM
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Id prefer a picture before i jump on the band wagon and agree with them. Allthough i think they are on the right track pictures would be very useful . Besides Bill, you always have pics.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-03-2009, 04:42 PM
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I agree with claybar

2006 Ford F-250 6.0L
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-03-2009, 07:36 PM
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Here's a write up I did on another site about claying.

What is the clay bar process, you ask?

Clay Bar is used to remove paint contamination, overspray and industrial fallout.

What is paint contamination?


Paint contamination consists of tiny metal shavings from rail dust, brake dust and industrial fallout. This contamination affects all paint finishes and can cause serious damage when left untreated. Paint contamination can be felt as a "rough or gritty" texture on the paint's surface and can lead to tiny rust spots. This contamination can not be removed by washing, waxing and/or polishing. Check out the three stages of paint contamination.

Stage 1:

Metal shavings land on the paint's surface.




Stage 2:

Shavings start to oxidize.




Stage 3:

Rust spots forms in the paint.





Where does it come from?


There are three major causes of paint contamination:

1. Rail dust - produced from the friction of train wheels against railroad tracks. Over 70% of new vehicles are shipped by rail. Rail dust can contaminate a new car's finish before it even reaches the dealership. Anytime a vehicle is parked or travels near a railroad it is subject to rail dust contamination.

2. Brake dust - particles produced from the friction of brake pads rubbing against the rotor. This metal on metal friction disperses tiny particles of bare metal into the air and on the highway where it collects on passing vehicles.

3. Industrial fallout - another word for pollution, industrial fallout is a byproduct of our modern industrial age.


Testing for paint contamination:

After washing and drying your vehicle, put your hand inside a plastic sandwich bag and lightly run your fingertips over the paint's surface. It should be as smooth as glass. If your car's surface has a rough, gritty or pebble-like texture, it indicates the presence of paint contamination. This should be removed with a clay bar before applying a polish or wax.


Removing Paint Contamination:

There is no wax, natural or synthetic, or any chemical treatment that can prevent or protect against this contamination. Compounding with an abrasive polish may remove paint contamination but it can only be performed a few times before removing too much of the top, clear coat finish. This is why the process of claying is required. Claying removes these impurities without removing your clear coat. It is the safest, most effective way to do so.

Claying is a simple process, although you may have to exert a little energy. The secret to proper claying is to keep the area that you are working on wet at all times. Not doing so makes the claying process difficult and it also causes marring of the paint. The amount of pressure that you apply is directly proportional to how bad the paint is contaminated. A 10 year old car that has lived in a driveway all of its life is going to require a little more scrubbing than your new car that you have just driven off the car lot.

The object of claying is to get the paint as smooth as glass. Work in small sections (1 foot square areas). Once you get a section smooth as glass, you move on to the next section. Work in small areas so that you don't miss anything. Here's a short video of me claying an area of a bumper in which a deep scratch resides.


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The claying process itself does absolutely nothing to remove swirls or scratches.
It simply removes the impurities from the paint as stated before. Claying is a very important process when necessary, and contributes effectively to obtaining that deep, glossy shine.


When should I clay?

Only when your finish fails the baggie test described above. Some folks clay their finish too often. It is not a set in stone step with paint maintenance, it is only required if your paint needs it. A car that stays garaged, covered and not driven often is not going to get clayed as often as a car that sits in a driveway night and day, in a dusty or dirty environment. I have personally clayed my car once, a year and a half ago. It of course is the first car in the scenario above.

Now that you realize when and why to clay your finish, all you have to do is inspect your paint. If your paint is a candidate for clay, drop on over to the Adam's website and pick yourself up some Adam's Detailing Clay Bar.

Performing the claying process in the shade or indoors helps keep your lubricant from drying to quickly. Try and do so if possible. :

The Junkman

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-03-2009, 08:25 PM
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Okay, the video didn't show up in that last post and I waited to long to edit it so here it is.

"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
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