Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NE, Ohio
Thanked 61 Times in 54 Posts
I will make you list here on what my usual routine is for painting vehicles. I don't know how skilled you are, but, hopefully bits and pieces will help you out at the least here.
First, stripping the paint. Aircraft Remover is the best I think in the chemical world. That or sanding with an orbital. Either system will take a you a little while to complete. Rust removal can be done before or after you remove the paint. I do it after the paint has been removed.
Once you are at the point of metal working, you have to cut the corroded parts out. Although, before this take a piece of cardboard and cut it to the size of the area needing fixing (before cutting) and this will be your template for making the new sheetmetal piece to weld in. Once you remove all the rust, paint, dirt whatever it may be. You must inspect how far the actualy corrosion has gone. The visual inspection is a must, if you have to use a light to see, so be it. Stopping future rusting is probably the difficult part of the whole deal.
Once you know where all the areas in need of repair are, you can pick one and just start cutting. Make sure you have a plan if you have an area that involves more than one piece of metal invloved. POR15 is a good product if you can not get to certain areas in terms of doing a proper repair with what you have. Just clean the big chunks of rust out and just use the POR15 over the rusted areas for the product to grab onto.
~Anvil - if you can't barrow or buy one of these, try to find something similar. I use an old I-beam in the garage.
~Welding mask or goggles
~Nitrile gloves if you decide to use the paint stripper
Welding in the panels, DO NOT lay beads, your metal WILL warp. Just lay spot welds throughout. Tedious, but the end product comes more smoothly. Grind the welds down. Weld in the dips etc. Grind until flat etc etc
Once your metal work is finished you can start wiping down the panels and prepping for fillers in the areas you need them. There are fiberglass sheets to use with fiberglass resin, or light weight body fillers with or without fiberglass reinforcement. I use 3M fillers. I haven't used the reinforced stuff very much but they do not soak up as much moisture as the non-reinforced ones do. 'Kitty-hair' is one name out there. Make sure your spreader edge is without damage because one little nick in there will frustrate you from making lines etc while you spread the stuff around. When I am doing multiple coats of fillers I use red & blue hardeners to seperate the layers of filler. Its a little easier to me.
After I do the filler work I like to use a sandable surfacer primer. This will fill the very small holes, dips and whatever may be just berely there that your eye might not catch. Once you do bodywork a lot, you can start to feel the very minute imperfections after sanding and smoothing out what you have spread or sprayed onto the panel.
Sand paper: I use 60 - 100 grit for metal working. 150 - 220 grit when I am doing filler and primer work. I end with 220 usually for making sure the primer is smooth.
Dust control: Spray down the vehicle with an air nozzle before any painting happens. Wet down the floor before painting begins too.
Do your taping off thoroughly.
Spraying. Your first coat should just be a mainly sprayed in the smaller, odd shaped, tight places. Door jams, wheel wells etc. Pretty much moving from the 'edges' inward. Regardless if it is a primer, color or clear. You must have a overlap of 50% per pass on a panel. Make sure you are 8 - 12 inches away from the work piece. Make sure your air pressure and gun tip are correct as well. If the area you are painting is curved, you move the paint gun accordingly to the curve. If you get too close there is a higher chance of influencing paint runs and those just hold up the whole process. Having an air-dryer is key when doing big jobs or small ones. Moisture build up in the tank is a pain, but its even bigger of a pain when you see it going onto the piece you are spraying, be sure you have done the best you can when containing it.
Check the paint gun tip size and see what Dupli color recommends to spray it. Some tips are able to be used with a wide range of paints, just make sure yours is able to be used before any paint will come out of the spray gun.
You end product is only as good as your metalwork and bodywork. Make sure you have every piece of information you need to make your truck turn out great in terms of technical paint data. They should be able to supply you with that sheet too.
Jim "Iron Giant" Fahlin ~ A high performance car is like a guitar, you have to tune it to achieve your best operation and pull ahead of the competition.
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