Paint? - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 03:26 AM Thread Starter
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Paint?

I got can of a deep blue (paint code BSP204) but im gonna thin it up alittle and paint the truck a light/darkish blue.Dupli-Color makes it and the can says ready to spray lacquer and no mixing required and also no re-coat window.Its a 32FL OZ or a quart Im just wondering how much it would take to paint a regular truck with a 8ft bed. And has anyone used this paint? Thanks

97' Cummins 2500 Gauges from glowshift (EGT, boost) Fuel pressure gauge from auto-meter. Stage 2 airbox, boost elbow, barrels & plungers turned.Custom fuel plate,Airdog 150gph.AFC mods & 3K GSK.SDX injectors (stage 3 140hp).Drilled wastegate.Converted to a NV4500 with a double disc. Being restored from the ground up


01' Cummins 2500 (dads) with a Hotrod pump,100hp injectors, Fass 150, Edge juice with attitude,also plug and power chip,stage 2 ice box,4 1/2 exgaust pipe,HX40

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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-08-2010, 01:29 PM
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What does it say about compatibility with other paints? I haven't sprayed Dupli-color before, but have experience with PPG and Sherwin Williams. I haven't used laquer before, I normally go with basecoat/clearcoat systems when laying paint. If you need stronger paint go with a 2-part system or 1 part enamel.

How nice do you want the truck to be?

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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry its taking me forever to reply but the can says theres no need to for reducing but it can be thinned with acetone if desired. That is the samething for the painting and appling clear coat. But i really dont see anything about compatibility with other paints.

97' Cummins 2500 Gauges from glowshift (EGT, boost) Fuel pressure gauge from auto-meter. Stage 2 airbox, boost elbow, barrels & plungers turned.Custom fuel plate,Airdog 150gph.AFC mods & 3K GSK.SDX injectors (stage 3 140hp).Drilled wastegate.Converted to a NV4500 with a double disc. Being restored from the ground up


01' Cummins 2500 (dads) with a Hotrod pump,100hp injectors, Fass 150, Edge juice with attitude,also plug and power chip,stage 2 ice box,4 1/2 exgaust pipe,HX40

Riding Dirty #60
B.O.M.B Squad #79
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 02:20 PM
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If you want to paint a whole truck, sanding, primer, sealer, color, clear. You will need compatable primers and clears with the laquer color once you reach that stage in the process. Dupli-color will sell you what you need for a proper paintjob.

How thorough are you going to be in painting a whole truck? Is the bed being lined with a coating and not color? Are you going to spray the door jams? and you going to spray under the hood? etc etc

Give a little more information on your plan for painting your rig please.

Jim "Iron Giant" Fahlin ~ A high performance car is like a guitar, you have to tune it to achieve your best operation and pull ahead of the competition.

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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Im gonna go ahead and go with all dupli-color like you said.

No the bed is gonna be a spray in bedliner. but im gonna take off the bed and the hood. maybe the doors. But im gonna try to make it like it was never painted before.

I noticed theres rust in the fenders and rocker panels. Is there a good way to take out the rust without getting new parts, just bascally say its already eating in the metal.

97' Cummins 2500 Gauges from glowshift (EGT, boost) Fuel pressure gauge from auto-meter. Stage 2 airbox, boost elbow, barrels & plungers turned.Custom fuel plate,Airdog 150gph.AFC mods & 3K GSK.SDX injectors (stage 3 140hp).Drilled wastegate.Converted to a NV4500 with a double disc. Being restored from the ground up


01' Cummins 2500 (dads) with a Hotrod pump,100hp injectors, Fass 150, Edge juice with attitude,also plug and power chip,stage 2 ice box,4 1/2 exgaust pipe,HX40

Riding Dirty #60
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 07:28 PM
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I will make you list here on what my usual routine is for painting vehicles. I don't know how skilled you are, but, hopefully bits and pieces will help you out at the least here.

First, stripping the paint. Aircraft Remover is the best I think in the chemical world. That or sanding with an orbital. Either system will take a you a little while to complete. Rust removal can be done before or after you remove the paint. I do it after the paint has been removed.

Once you are at the point of metal working, you have to cut the corroded parts out. Although, before this take a piece of cardboard and cut it to the size of the area needing fixing (before cutting) and this will be your template for making the new sheetmetal piece to weld in. Once you remove all the rust, paint, dirt whatever it may be. You must inspect how far the actualy corrosion has gone. The visual inspection is a must, if you have to use a light to see, so be it. Stopping future rusting is probably the difficult part of the whole deal.

Once you know where all the areas in need of repair are, you can pick one and just start cutting. Make sure you have a plan if you have an area that involves more than one piece of metal invloved. POR15 is a good product if you can not get to certain areas in terms of doing a proper repair with what you have. Just clean the big chunks of rust out and just use the POR15 over the rusted areas for the product to grab onto.

Tools needed:
~Safety glasses
~Body hammers
~Hand Dolly
~Anvil - if you can't barrow or buy one of these, try to find something similar. I use an old I-beam in the garage.
~Wire brush
~Grinder
~Cutting wheel
~Welding mask or goggles
~Welder
~Nitrile gloves if you decide to use the paint stripper
~Welding gloves

Welding in the panels, DO NOT lay beads, your metal WILL warp. Just lay spot welds throughout. Tedious, but the end product comes more smoothly. Grind the welds down. Weld in the dips etc. Grind until flat etc etc

Once your metal work is finished you can start wiping down the panels and prepping for fillers in the areas you need them. There are fiberglass sheets to use with fiberglass resin, or light weight body fillers with or without fiberglass reinforcement. I use 3M fillers. I haven't used the reinforced stuff very much but they do not soak up as much moisture as the non-reinforced ones do. 'Kitty-hair' is one name out there. Make sure your spreader edge is without damage because one little nick in there will frustrate you from making lines etc while you spread the stuff around. When I am doing multiple coats of fillers I use red & blue hardeners to seperate the layers of filler. Its a little easier to me.

After I do the filler work I like to use a sandable surfacer primer. This will fill the very small holes, dips and whatever may be just berely there that your eye might not catch. Once you do bodywork a lot, you can start to feel the very minute imperfections after sanding and smoothing out what you have spread or sprayed onto the panel.

Sand paper: I use 60 - 100 grit for metal working. 150 - 220 grit when I am doing filler and primer work. I end with 220 usually for making sure the primer is smooth.

Dust control: Spray down the vehicle with an air nozzle before any painting happens. Wet down the floor before painting begins too.

Do your taping off thoroughly.

Spraying. Your first coat should just be a mainly sprayed in the smaller, odd shaped, tight places. Door jams, wheel wells etc. Pretty much moving from the 'edges' inward. Regardless if it is a primer, color or clear. You must have a overlap of 50% per pass on a panel. Make sure you are 8 - 12 inches away from the work piece. Make sure your air pressure and gun tip are correct as well. If the area you are painting is curved, you move the paint gun accordingly to the curve. If you get too close there is a higher chance of influencing paint runs and those just hold up the whole process. Having an air-dryer is key when doing big jobs or small ones. Moisture build up in the tank is a pain, but its even bigger of a pain when you see it going onto the piece you are spraying, be sure you have done the best you can when containing it.

Check the paint gun tip size and see what Dupli color recommends to spray it. Some tips are able to be used with a wide range of paints, just make sure yours is able to be used before any paint will come out of the spray gun.

You end product is only as good as your metalwork and bodywork. Make sure you have every piece of information you need to make your truck turn out great in terms of technical paint data. They should be able to supply you with that sheet too.

Jim "Iron Giant" Fahlin ~ A high performance car is like a guitar, you have to tune it to achieve your best operation and pull ahead of the competition.

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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Sweet thanks man!! Yea ive dealed with bodyfiller and the fiberglass bondo thats about it.

''When I am doing multiple coats of fillers I use red & blue hardeners to seperate the layers of filler. Its a little easier to me.'' Why would you use multiple coats of filler?

97' Cummins 2500 Gauges from glowshift (EGT, boost) Fuel pressure gauge from auto-meter. Stage 2 airbox, boost elbow, barrels & plungers turned.Custom fuel plate,Airdog 150gph.AFC mods & 3K GSK.SDX injectors (stage 3 140hp).Drilled wastegate.Converted to a NV4500 with a double disc. Being restored from the ground up


01' Cummins 2500 (dads) with a Hotrod pump,100hp injectors, Fass 150, Edge juice with attitude,also plug and power chip,stage 2 ice box,4 1/2 exgaust pipe,HX40

Riding Dirty #60
B.O.M.B Squad #79
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 02:47 PM
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using multiple coats to build up one layer at a time. you dont wanna slap one huge/thick coat on. it wont dry properly, you'll trap tons of air bubbles and it will just be a huge problem. also if your filling a deep low area you will want to use different types of filler. starting with a thick prefferably reinforced type , then work your way to the lighter less thick fillers .

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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Like in the past, if ive had a big hole to fill i would use fiberglass bondo first then go back with the body filler. To me the body filler is easier to use.I guess just because its not reinforced.

97' Cummins 2500 Gauges from glowshift (EGT, boost) Fuel pressure gauge from auto-meter. Stage 2 airbox, boost elbow, barrels & plungers turned.Custom fuel plate,Airdog 150gph.AFC mods & 3K GSK.SDX injectors (stage 3 140hp).Drilled wastegate.Converted to a NV4500 with a double disc. Being restored from the ground up


01' Cummins 2500 (dads) with a Hotrod pump,100hp injectors, Fass 150, Edge juice with attitude,also plug and power chip,stage 2 ice box,4 1/2 exgaust pipe,HX40

Riding Dirty #60
B.O.M.B Squad #79
Singles Club #260
Special thanks too


http://www.southerndieselx.com/
xtremediesel.com
dieselperformance.com
cptrucks.com
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 04:04 PM
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yes and that would be correct. anytime you have a large or deep low spot starting with any reinforced filler should be the first step when using body filler. I always try to remove as much of the low area as possible by pulling it out with a stud spotter then a body hammer to firm the metal back up before i use a any filler.

'04 6.0, 4.5" lift, straight piped, SCT tunes by Innovative Diesel, studded, coolant filter, EGR delete Tru track in the rear, sounds by JL audio some other odds and ends
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