BARO Sensor disabled? - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-16-2010, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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BARO Sensor disabled?

My CEL came on and the only code that was present was P0106.
According to my scanner this indicates that the BARO (BAROmetric pressure sensor) is not performing well/has limited range.
I took it to the dealer thinking they would find the sensor to be bad, or at least disconnected....they didn't tell me they did anything with the sensor.
The dealer had the truck for over 5 hours when they called and said they had trouble debugging the issue. They said they found it had a bad glow plug, so they replaced it, cleared the codes and then started it back up and re-tested it and no code came up on re-test.

What worries me is....what they fixed doesn't seem to have anything to do with the original code. I asked myself what would the barometric sensor be used for and all I could come up with is that it plays into the fuel/air mixture calculations somehow. So what the heck does a bad glow plug have to do with the barometric sensor?

I live a 5,000 feet and drive over 14,000 foot passes every year. I'm worried that they may have disabled the barometric sensor. I may not see an issue with it at 5,000 feet, but as soon as I go to higher or lower altitudes the truck is going to run bad, if it runs at all.

Can someone tell me how I would tell whether the barometric sensor has been disabled in my fuel/air mixture calculations? Or could they have actually cut a wire....say the power to the sensor, to get the code to go away?

06' F250 Mods:

Performance related:
-K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
-Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
-Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
-MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust; cat installed
-SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com

Reliability Mods:
-Refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
-Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
--Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40, Archoil 9100 friction modifier (16 ounces to crank case; 10 ounces to each differential)
--2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (5 oz. Stanadyne every tank)
-Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
-Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.

Miscellaneous:
-1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
-Batteries:
--Original Motorcraft lasted 4 1/2 years
--AutoZone Duralast Gold lasted less than 3 years
---(with 2/0 cables between + terminals)
--Still on 2nd set of Autozone Gold (replaced free)
-Alternator:
--DC Power 185 amp
Future Mods:
-Teflon sway bar bushings
-Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
-Cooling system filter
-OEM HG/ARP studs
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-16-2010, 06:38 PM
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never heard of such a sensor. You don't have to worry about a fuel/air mixture causing a problem cause you're not driveing a carborated engine vehicle. I wonder if that would be the sensor that some trucks have other than the MAF sensor....cause some trucks don't have a MAF sensor.

2004 F-350 XLT SC 4x4: SCT, AFE stage II, autometer gauges(pyro, boost, tranny, fuel), edge insight, CFM large mouth intake elbow, spearco, snow performance water injection, 5" stacks, ARP's, fluidampr, hypermax fire rings, LIPD regulated return, FASS, fuelab, casserly 190's, 64/71/70 turbo(polished compressor housing)modded FICM(ID), Hellmann's sump, electirc fans
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-16-2010, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Can you expand on this idea a little. Are you saying the the ratio of fuel and air is not relevant in a diesel?

06' F250 Mods:

Performance related:
-K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
-Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
-Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
-MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust; cat installed
-SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com

Reliability Mods:
-Refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
-Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
--Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40, Archoil 9100 friction modifier (16 ounces to crank case; 10 ounces to each differential)
--2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (5 oz. Stanadyne every tank)
-Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
-Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.

Miscellaneous:
-1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
-Batteries:
--Original Motorcraft lasted 4 1/2 years
--AutoZone Duralast Gold lasted less than 3 years
---(with 2/0 cables between + terminals)
--Still on 2nd set of Autozone Gold (replaced free)
-Alternator:
--DC Power 185 amp
Future Mods:
-Teflon sway bar bushings
-Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
-Cooling system filter
-OEM HG/ARP studs
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-16-2010, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustedknuckles View Post
Can you expand on this idea a little. Are you saying the the ratio of fuel and air is not relevant in a diesel?
well it is, but i don't think it's self adjusting through the ecm/MAF sensor like a gas engine is. Such as.....under stock programming, i would think that the air fuel ratio is what it is. like if the engine needs more air or fuel...i don't think the MAF sensor sends a signal to the ecm or FICM to injectors for more fuel or to the turbo and make it spin faster at a given point for more air. I think this is why a diesel at a higher elevations will have a different power feel than one at lower elevations or at sea level. I don't think the MAF sensor on a diesel does the same as what it does on a gas engine, but i could be wrong. Maybe someone with more knowledge about this will post up.

2004 F-350 XLT SC 4x4: SCT, AFE stage II, autometer gauges(pyro, boost, tranny, fuel), edge insight, CFM large mouth intake elbow, spearco, snow performance water injection, 5" stacks, ARP's, fluidampr, hypermax fire rings, LIPD regulated return, FASS, fuelab, casserly 190's, 64/71/70 turbo(polished compressor housing)modded FICM(ID), Hellmann's sump, electirc fans

Last edited by strokin6L; 11-16-2010 at 10:28 PM.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-17-2010, 04:27 AM Thread Starter
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OK, strokin6L. Thanks for your explanation.
I'm certainly no expert on tuning.
I was thinking that the PCM used the MAF, BARO and oxygen sensors along with engine temp to come up with the fuel volume, but, like I say, I'm no expert.

Is the anyone out there that knows what the BARO is used for?

06' F250 Mods:

Performance related:
-K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
-Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
-Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
-MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust; cat installed
-SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com

Reliability Mods:
-Refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
-Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
--Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40, Archoil 9100 friction modifier (16 ounces to crank case; 10 ounces to each differential)
--2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (5 oz. Stanadyne every tank)
-Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
-Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.

Miscellaneous:
-1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
-Batteries:
--Original Motorcraft lasted 4 1/2 years
--AutoZone Duralast Gold lasted less than 3 years
---(with 2/0 cables between + terminals)
--Still on 2nd set of Autozone Gold (replaced free)
-Alternator:
--DC Power 185 amp
Future Mods:
-Teflon sway bar bushings
-Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
-Cooling system filter
-OEM HG/ARP studs
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-18-2010, 01:56 AM
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I believe your refering to the map sensor(manifold absolute pressure), some scan tools will refer this as a baro sensor(barometric pressure sensor). It measures manifold pressure or boost pressure. Its used for egr flow rate and boost monitoring. Its a small sensor located near the firewall heater valve area on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Look in the 6.0 bible in the stickies section and it will show you. The vacuum line hose from the manifold can get clogged or split and the sensor can also become clogged or malfunction. I would check and clean out the hose and manifold nipple and check the sensor for debri inside the hose port. If no more check engine light comes on, then your good to go. If it continues, then further checking will be needed.

Harry

Jan 03' built 6.0/F250cc4wd trqsft/SCT-tuned by KEM-Performance/Garrett Powermax vg-turbo/blue spring mod/gauges=egt+boost+fuel+SG2/exhaust/airaid intake/DR 4.5 lift/dual bilsteins/315's/greasable ball joints/powerstop/smittybuilt/kc lights/high idle mod/roll-n-lock/Mobil Delvac1 ESP 5W40 with (Archoil AR9100 in the oil) and (AR6200 in the fuel)
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-18-2010, 04:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Harry,

I can't say at this point whether my vehicle has a BAROmetric Sensor and/or a MAP sensor. I tried to find the BARO sensor, but was unable to find it yet. I was told, on another thread that the BARO sensor was located under the column, under the dash. I did find something that might be the BARO sensor, however, I have yet to prove this to myself.
Thanks for the additional information on how to locate the MAP sensor; I'll look for the MAP sensor as you indicated and re-post what I find.
As I indicated in the beginning of this thread, I'm trying to understand why the dealer solved my so called glow plug issue, when I brought the truck in for, what seems like, another issue entirely.....the code I received was P0106 (my scanner described this as 'BARO sensor range/performance'), whereas the dealer indicated, when I picked up the truck, that they ran a series of tests and determined that the glow plug was faulty. The older I get, the more I learn to question until something makes sense. I don't want to fault the dealer necessarily, however, I understand they have the need to make each job pay. If, in my case, this meant charging me $100 (deductible) for replacing a $12 part allows them to cover their diagnostic time, I guess I'm not too upset about that. I would like to know, however, that the original problem is resolved.
Again, thanks for helping me learn more.

06' F250 Mods:

Performance related:
-K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
-Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
-Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
-MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust; cat installed
-SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com

Reliability Mods:
-Refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
-Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
--Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40, Archoil 9100 friction modifier (16 ounces to crank case; 10 ounces to each differential)
--2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (5 oz. Stanadyne every tank)
-Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
-Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.

Miscellaneous:
-1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
-Batteries:
--Original Motorcraft lasted 4 1/2 years
--AutoZone Duralast Gold lasted less than 3 years
---(with 2/0 cables between + terminals)
--Still on 2nd set of Autozone Gold (replaced free)
-Alternator:
--DC Power 185 amp
Future Mods:
-Teflon sway bar bushings
-Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
-Cooling system filter
-OEM HG/ARP studs
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-23-2010, 01:49 PM
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could also be the baro code was only a 1 time glitch just stuck in the memory. the GP thing might even be that they had to find something to put in a warranty claim. my dealer who i think is great told me that if i brought in and they found nothing, or if i just asked to have it scanned i got the full bill.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-24-2010, 05:24 AM Thread Starter
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Nitrogen,

That's what I believe happened; they made an attempt to find the source of the problem code, but were unable to. They eventually decided to bring up the glow plug issue to use as an excuse to charge me $100 for their time.

What I don't understand is why I couldn't clear the code with my scanner. If all they did was clear the code (and it remained cleared), why it didn't remain cleared when I used my scanner. I have a scanner called the OBDCOM.

Are their some type of codes that cannot be cleared with a typical scanner?
Do I need a more sophisticated scanner than the one I have?

Some on this forum have mentioned the AE (Auto Enginuity?) scanner. I'm sure this is a more sophisticated scanner than I have, but can the AE clear all kinds of codes, some of which my scanner cannot?

06' F250 Mods:

Performance related:
-K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
-Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
-Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
-MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust; cat installed
-SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com

Reliability Mods:
-Refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
-Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
--Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40, Archoil 9100 friction modifier (16 ounces to crank case; 10 ounces to each differential)
--2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (5 oz. Stanadyne every tank)
-Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
-Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.

Miscellaneous:
-1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
-Batteries:
--Original Motorcraft lasted 4 1/2 years
--AutoZone Duralast Gold lasted less than 3 years
---(with 2/0 cables between + terminals)
--Still on 2nd set of Autozone Gold (replaced free)
-Alternator:
--DC Power 185 amp
Future Mods:
-Teflon sway bar bushings
-Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
-Cooling system filter
-OEM HG/ARP studs
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-24-2010, 12:29 PM
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AE can see codes that you won't even see. you can also do all sorts of diagnostic tests. there is 1-2 tests that AE can't do that fords system can. if they couldn't claim it under warranty your bill probably would have been better than double. soon as i can afford it i want to get AE myself, at 100 a visit minimum it doesn't take long to payoff once you have it you can even do quarterly checks just to look in and make sure everything is good. i have owned a 6.0 since sept 2003 in that time i had 1 check engine light for 3 days. but the 03 truck never ran right for more than a week at a time the entire 3 years i had it. the light is useless to me

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