Truck running rough after installing new fuel lines - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-06-2011, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Truck running rough after installing new fuel lines

Just installed new fuel lines; the larger diameter ones.
The truck is running a bit rough and puts out a little black smoke which alternates with a little blue smoke.
The truck starts fine, although, it still takes a few seconds to light up.
This all happens when the truck is warming up. After it warms up I don't see any smoke. It doesn't seem to run any better, in fact, it seems to run a little worse. It seems like it's a little more sluggish than before I installed the fuel lines.

This replaces the banjo bolts, so I have no check valves. I wonder if this is going to be a problem?
Could this cause damage?

I've ordered new stand-pipes and end plugs in an attempt to resolve my slow start issue. I am also thinking of replacing my injector o-rings and copper washers while I'm in there. I realize the issue could be my STC fitting, in which case I would move on to this next, if the truck still starts slow.

06' F250 Mods:

Performance related:
-K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
-Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
-Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
-MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust; cat installed
-SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com

Reliability Mods:
-Refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
-Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
--Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40, Archoil 9100 friction modifier (16 ounces to crank case; 10 ounces to each differential)
--2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (5 oz. Stanadyne every tank)
-Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
-Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.

Miscellaneous:
-1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
-Batteries:
--Original Motorcraft lasted 4 1/2 years
--AutoZone Duralast Gold lasted less than 3 years
---(with 2/0 cables between + terminals)
--Still on 2nd set of Autozone Gold (replaced free)
-Alternator:
--DC Power 185 amp
Future Mods:
-Teflon sway bar bushings
-Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
-Cooling system filter
-OEM HG/ARP studs
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-07-2011, 02:08 AM
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Any fault codes? Maybe double check to make sure no fuel is leaking or sucking air from any of the newly installed fuel line connections. Or the new larger fuel lines compounded an already exsisting seperate problem, such as internal fuel pressure loss in the system, and since there are no longer any check valves to help retain pressure, it made it react more negatively. Do you have anything to check ICP readings? I have a scangauge2 hooked up on my truck, and can watch ICP at all times. ICP loss could also be your issue.

Harry

Jan 03' built 6.0/F250cc4wd trqsft/SCT-tuned by KEM-Performance/Garrett Powermax vg-turbo/blue spring mod/gauges=egt+boost+fuel+SG2/exhaust/airaid intake/DR 4.5 lift/dual bilsteins/315's/greasable ball joints/powerstop/smittybuilt/kc lights/high idle mod/roll-n-lock/Mobil Delvac1 ESP 5W40 with (Archoil AR9100 in the oil) and (AR6200 in the fuel)
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-07-2011, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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Harry,

No fault codes and I don't see any leaking.
Don't know how I could check for air being sucked in.

It's running better every day, though....maybe it needed to recalibrate itself?

And yes, I have an AE scanner....what should I be seeing on the ICP? I can log ICP over a period of time and then look at it as a list of saved values or a graph.

I am leaning towards having an issue with low oil pressure, either because of a leak at a stand-pipe, end plug or STP fitting.
Another possibility is that I'm losing fuel past my injector o-rings.
I lean in this direction, since I installed a GDS fuel pressure spring last year and was running it up until I started getting long starts this past November.
I have since replaced the spring with the Ford Blue one, however, I could still have a fuel leak past the o-rings.

I just received my stand-pipe and end plug kit from Tousley Ford last night and I have a full set of injector o-rings which I will likely install all at once.
Do you have a recommendation on this? It seems like the stand-pipe and end plugs are fairly easy to do so I will do them for sure, but, not sure whether doing the injector o-rings at the same time is going to help me figure out which one it was.

06' F250 Mods:

Performance related:
-K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
-Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
-Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
-MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust; cat installed
-SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com

Reliability Mods:
-Refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
-Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
--Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40, Archoil 9100 friction modifier (16 ounces to crank case; 10 ounces to each differential)
--2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (5 oz. Stanadyne every tank)
-Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
-Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.

Miscellaneous:
-1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
-Batteries:
--Original Motorcraft lasted 4 1/2 years
--AutoZone Duralast Gold lasted less than 3 years
---(with 2/0 cables between + terminals)
--Still on 2nd set of Autozone Gold (replaced free)
-Alternator:
--DC Power 185 amp
Future Mods:
-Teflon sway bar bushings
-Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
-Cooling system filter
-OEM HG/ARP studs

Last edited by bustedknuckles; 07-07-2011 at 11:39 PM.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 01:43 PM
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For starting up the truck, the icp readings vary drastically depending on the engine oil temps. When my truck is cold and I first fire it up, the icp will spike to 2100+ psi then settle to 1400+ idling, when the engine temp is fully warmed up and its been sitting for less than an hour and I fire it up, the icp will spike to 1300+ then settle to 790+ idling. In any case the icp needs to see 500 psi to fire the injectors. Injector faults are hard to pinpoint unless they are currently happening. I think you are on the right track by going after the stand pipes and plugs and stc fittings. Would be a good idea to log before and after repair icp readings. Injector seals is probably the least likely but not entirely unlikely.

Harry

Jan 03' built 6.0/F250cc4wd trqsft/SCT-tuned by KEM-Performance/Garrett Powermax vg-turbo/blue spring mod/gauges=egt+boost+fuel+SG2/exhaust/airaid intake/DR 4.5 lift/dual bilsteins/315's/greasable ball joints/powerstop/smittybuilt/kc lights/high idle mod/roll-n-lock/Mobil Delvac1 ESP 5W40 with (Archoil AR9100 in the oil) and (AR6200 in the fuel)
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