stock 07 f350 fx4 - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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stock 07 f350 fx4

would like to add a tuner for better fuel mileage , the truck is a stock f350 fx4 extended cab srw, with 110,000 miles, not really interested in adding any other hardware. any suggestions? thanks
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-03-2011, 11:17 PM
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suggestions --Add some things and skip the tuner or you can get in trouble real quick. Gauges-coolant filter-fuel pressure gauge-flush
2 stroker

06 F350 4x4 PSD Lariat FX4 CC LB
Edge CTS Expandable Pyro,AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge
Updated Fuel Reg. Kit 3C3Z-9T517-AG
Amsoil By-Pass(Amsoil 5w40)
Coolant Filtration System Delo ELC
Pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB
PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
3" dp-4" exhaust
TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
Tymar Intake
A piller EGT,Boost,Trans
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-08-2011, 04:29 PM
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I don't know what 2 stoker is talking about. I wouldn't hesitate to get a tuner. I'd get a mild tune. The mileage will be better and tow qualities enhanced. If you go to a stronger tune then just except the fact that you will be changing out your head gaskets. There are guys here that are very vocal about that.

Guess what? They are all right. At 62K I had to change out my head gaskets (just three weeks ago). Yea!!!!!!!! it was under warranty and I put in the ARP studs.

2007 Ford F350 FX4 Crew Cab long Bed, SCT X3, Innovative Tunes by Eric with Edge Insight and EGT. Magnaflow 4" Turbo back. EGR Cooler blocked off. RCD 2.5 Leveling lift kit, 35/12.5/18" Toyo MT. ARP Studs
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-08-2011, 06:24 PM
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Well with ARP studs you can run SCT X3 Innovative Tunes by Eric or tunes from Matt at Gearhead all i'm saying is with a stock motor you will have to do heads down the road and have deep pockets O you know that. The things that count are
1. A good set of gauges (you have them)Edge Insight CTS to check temp deltas (spread) between EOT-ECT max by Ford 15*
2. Coolant filter to remove the casting sand that helps plug coolers.
3. Coolant flush if your spread on EOT-ECT in my book is less than 10* Ford said 15*---- at 15* you are ready for coolers. The Ford Gold Cxxp coolant can't take the heat and the silicates drop out and plug the oil cooler but the egr cooler is the one that goes first then if you keep going you will need HGs a good CAT EC-1 Rated ELC coolant is the way to go.
4. Fuel pressure gauge because under 45lbs at WOT you are killing the injectors. New Ford Reg spring is needed to up the pressure this will bring the pressures up between Idle 62lbs and WOT 58lbs mine with 17k on it had Idle 50lbs and 44lbs WOT.
5. Oil by-pass if you are in for the long haul to keep the oil clean, stock Ford filter cleans to 20 microns and by-pass cleans to 2 microns and run a good 5w40 Syn oil these injectors like it. Max on the oil is 5k because of the shear of the oil by the injectors even with an oil by-pass.
6. Batteries--Keep good batteries in it because weak or bad ones will kill the FICM most of the trucks with FICM problems or 5-6 years old with stock batteries still in them or they just replaced them because it was running ruff and hard starts in the morning then smoothed out after it warmed up.
7. Use only Ford filters (oil-fuel-trans-air)
2 stroker

06 F350 4x4 PSD Lariat FX4 CC LB
Edge CTS Expandable Pyro,AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge
Updated Fuel Reg. Kit 3C3Z-9T517-AG
Amsoil By-Pass(Amsoil 5w40)
Coolant Filtration System Delo ELC
Pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB
PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
3" dp-4" exhaust
TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
Tymar Intake
A piller EGT,Boost,Trans
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 01:10 AM
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Listen to 2 stroker!!!! You need to check the health of your motor first!!! Gauges/monitor first!! Your gonna check your ECT/EOT delta to determine if you oil cooler is blocked, when the coolant passages in the oil cooler get blocked it prevents/restricts coolant flow to the EGR cooler. A failed oil cooler and a ruptured EGR cooler can cause coolant to enter the cylinders. Water/coolant don't compress, so this means you'll stretch your head bolts causing headgasket failure.

When fuel psi drops below 45psi from idle to WOT, you take a chance of destroying expensive injectors.

When FICM volts drop below 46v, you take another chance of destroying those expensive injectors.

Be very adamant (anal) about maintenance, the 6.0 injectors like clean oil and proper filters (motorcraft/racor). Maintenance and preventive maintenance (gauges/monitor) is what helps keep the 6.0 happy and strong, if you choose to ignor, you'll be $orry.

2004 F350 CC DRW King Ranch
X-3 tunes by DJ,QT,GH,ID,Gyphon FICM tuner,head studs,II Stage 1turbo,ATS coolant recirc lines,Swamp's 48v ficm,coolant filter,Snow Perf stage II,EGR delete,AD2,4" turbo back straight pipe,K&N intake,Quad "A" pillar autometer gauges,Suncoast Tri Disk Conv.,Billet input shaft,Suncoast superduty rebuild kit,Trans-go shift kit,Mag-Hytec trans pan,CFM+ elbow,ccv mod,15K reese 5er,17" LCD TV/DVD,Cobra 29 Nitewatch CB
Thanks to:JASONS REPAIR AND PERFORMANCE-TELFORD,PA.

"Are diesel pickups hot rods? Yes,they are-perhaps the most versatile hot rods ever made"---Diesel Power Magazine
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 08:20 AM
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I did not wright this but i read it alot but i will not tune mine
This is very important information check link at bottom
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwar
Does the lack of silicate have any adverse affects??? Not to ask a dumb question but why would ford continue to use a coolant that causes serious issues with its engines???

Does the 6.0L come from the factory with the ford gold or something from international???

(QUOTE) Posted by PGreenSVT at Powerstroke.org

Can't explain away Ford's logic. International uses Fleetrite ELC. Think about it. Whats is another silicate? Sand immediately come to mind. What is sand? It's an abrasive. Besides that it turns to a gell from the heat as it goes through the egr cooler trying to carry off the heat from high egt's resulting in the sludge that clogs the oil cooler. There is a substanial body of evidence supporting this.

Not having silicates is a positive thing. It has no adverse affects. ELC coolant is good for 300k miles without any additives and extendable to 600k with an additive pack at 300k. The new Delo ELC is good for 750k miles or 8 years extendable to 1 million miles.

I think it pretty much speaks for itself.
__________________
I'm on a campaign man. That Gold cxxp is killing our trucks and people need to know. It is the cause of the biggest problems we have with the 6.0 and the bad reputation the 6.0 has. And it is pretty cheap and easy to eliminate. People should know this. So yeah, I'm beating that drum. The other drum is the need to monitor ECT and EOT before you blow your egr cooler and head gaskets.

I just did a flush with Fleetrite Restore, VC9, lots of flushing, installed a coolant filter, and switched to ELC. Im curious to see what my coolant filter will look like after the first 500 miles, I know there is still most likely some cxxp in there still as I still have the stock EGR and oil cooler at 34k miles but I doubt there will be anywhere the abount that we see out of most of the posts with opened up coolant filters.

I recently installed the DieselSite.com coolant filter kit on my 2006 6.0. The kit came complete with everything you need and also came with the new billet aluminum filter head, looks really sharp.

PGreenSVT, dude you need to change your screen name to "ELC FOR LIFE!"

But I agree I just switched to ELC also, either way it cant be any worse than the gold, for those of you that have doubts just scrape the bottom of your degas bottle, thats the same cxxp thats clogging your oil cooler. When I did my flush I pulled my degas bottle and scrubbed it with a bottle brush, that cxxp is like glue.
also read this
(QUOTE) Posted by PGreenSVT Powerstroke.org

Here is the deal with the 6.0. Any good tuner (person writing your tunes) is not going to give you a tune that is going to tear up your truck. There are trucks all over the place running 400-420 rwhp with 750-800 rwtq all day long without problems.

Yes the 6.0 is known to blow head gaskets. This is why it happens. The Ford Gold coolant contains silicates. The silicates are not able to handle high EGT's generated by a good load or relatively high boost when run through the EGR cooler. They break down into a jell like sludge and fall out of suspension. This crud gets caught up in the tiny coolant passageways of the oil cooler. As the cooler clogs up it restricts coolant flow to the egr cooler. Now the egr cooler doesn't have enough coolant to carry off the heat generated by high EGT's. The limited amount of coolant in the egr cooler flash boils causing high pressure in the cooling system and the truck pukes coolant from the degas bottle due to the pressure. (it has to go somewhere)
Your uninformed Powerstroke owner is not monitoring his coolant temps and oil temps so he doesn't know whats going on and he keeps driving it this way. The problem get worse, the pressure causes the egr cooler to rupture. Now the egr cooler is leaking coolant into the intake manifold which then runs into the cylinders. Again the high combustion temps cause the coolant to vaporize. This causes unacceptably high cylinder pressure, the TTY head bolts stretch due to the additional pressure and there go your head gaskets.

Ok now you know the problem. Here's the cure. Get a good engine monitoring solution like the Edge Insight so that you can monitor your ECT and EOT. If those temps get more than 15* apart at normal cruising when at normal operating temperature your oil cooler is clogging up. Rebuild it now to prevent all that down stream damage from occurring. Flush that Ford Gold coolant cxxp out of your engine with a couple bottles of Restore. This is made specifically to clean out that silicate residue. Now refill it with a silicate free Cat EC-1 rated ELC coolant. This removes the silicates that clog the oil cooler from the equation. If you live in an area where you don't have smog inspections delete the egr system. If you can't delete it replace the egr cooler with the cooler manufactured by Bulletproof Diesel. This is vastly superior to the Ford oem egr cooler and it will not fail on you. If you find that you need to replace head gaskets replace the TTY head bolts with ARP studs and use black onyx (Victor Reinz) head gaskets. If you have to replace the egr cooler always replace the oil cooler. That is the source of the problem.

Now that you have addressed the common problems that scare the hell out of people, get an SCT tuner (i like the X3) and install some custom tunes and drive the heck out of it. DO NOT baby it. The Powerstroke hates this and will rebel with turbo issues.

Turbo issues are also common repair points with the 6.0. People like to complain that it's because the VGT turbos are pieces of junk. This is not so. The VGT vanes in the turbo need to be exercised regularly. This means making them go through there full range of motion. So put your foot in it regularly and let is see some full boost runs. That will keep your VGT vanes from getting all sooted up and freezing up because of the soot. Again, that is what happens when you baby it. Put you foot in it and you will have less problems. Lay out of it and try to milk it for mileage like you would a gasser and you're going to have turbo issues. Don't let it sit either. That is also the kiss of death to the turbo. The unison ring rusts up and again you have turbo problems. So now that you know you need to give your turbo a regular work out to keep it happy, give it a proper cool down as well. Just whipping into your parking place and shutting it down will lead to coking the bearings and again major turbo issues. Running a good synthetic oil will help here immensely because it handles heat so much better and resists coking. But always let your turbo have time to cool down. This is one of the reasons you need a Pyrometer (EGT gauge), Let the EGT come down to 350* before shutting your truck off. This only takes a couple of minutes, especially if you take it easy on it for the last couple minutes of your trip. If this is too much hassle for you get a turbo timer that will automatically delay shutdown when you turn off the key to allow the turbo to cool down.

Injectors. Fords injection system HEUI fires the injectors with High Pressure Oil, to the tune of 4,000psi at Wide Open Throttle. Maintenance is critical here so you can not let your oil maintenance slide like you can on a gasser. It will kill your injectors. The injectors also are known to suffer from something that we call stiction. That is when the oil side spool valve of the injects hangs up or sticks when cold until the truck warms up. I believe this is caused by varnish buildup that is common to dino oils, especially those containing paraffin. Using a good synthetic oil will take care of that because it actually cleans the engine as it lubricates. If you do find yourself with some injector stiction add a couple of bottles of Rev-X to your oil. It has cleared up 99.9% of the trucks it has been used on. 2 bottles run around $70. A new injector is about $250-$290. Be anal about keeping your oil clean and fresh and changing your fuel filters regularly. The other thing that kills injectors is low fuel pressure. The fuel pressure needs to stay above 45psi at all times and is typically set around 52 psi from the factory. Well the Factory fuel pressure regulator spring is weak and looses it's tension over time and can't maintain adequate fuel pressure. There is an updated rebuild kit that uses a better, stronger spring. Installing this spring will bring your fuel pressure up to about 62 psi and solve that. Get a fuel pressure gauge. It's important.

So that covers the frequent complaints with the 6.0. They are all well known at this point as are the solutions. Does it suck we have to fix Ford's blunders? Heck yes it does. But again we know how and once done you will have a very reliable robust truck that is well worth the effort. So address the issues as you can and enjoy your truck. It is a dynamite vehicle. I love mine.

If you like pictures have a look here.

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0...ml#post2063212
2 stroker

06 F350 4x4 PSD Lariat FX4 CC LB
Edge CTS Expandable Pyro,AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge
Updated Fuel Reg. Kit 3C3Z-9T517-AG
Amsoil By-Pass(Amsoil 5w40)
Coolant Filtration System Delo ELC
Pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB
PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
3" dp-4" exhaust
TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
Tymar Intake
A piller EGT,Boost,Trans
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 01:10 PM
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Here's what my oil cooler looked like after I cut the bottom half off for inspection, looked like a sand box!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPisQUQTW4k

2004 F350 CC DRW King Ranch
X-3 tunes by DJ,QT,GH,ID,Gyphon FICM tuner,head studs,II Stage 1turbo,ATS coolant recirc lines,Swamp's 48v ficm,coolant filter,Snow Perf stage II,EGR delete,AD2,4" turbo back straight pipe,K&N intake,Quad "A" pillar autometer gauges,Suncoast Tri Disk Conv.,Billet input shaft,Suncoast superduty rebuild kit,Trans-go shift kit,Mag-Hytec trans pan,CFM+ elbow,ccv mod,15K reese 5er,17" LCD TV/DVD,Cobra 29 Nitewatch CB
Thanks to:JASONS REPAIR AND PERFORMANCE-TELFORD,PA.

"Are diesel pickups hot rods? Yes,they are-perhaps the most versatile hot rods ever made"---Diesel Power Magazine
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-11-2011, 10:50 PM
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Tileman,

Let's be honest, we don't buy full size heavy duty pickups like F-350s for good fuel economy. if you want an economical diesel, you buy a Volkswagen TDI. Once we have them, we all want the fuel consumption to improve. There are several ways you can proceed.

A programmer is the most tempting and honestly the easiest, but involves a huge amount of risk in the form of out of pocket expenses on a truck with those miles. The thermal load from adding power can and will stress the cooling system, especially the oil and EGR coolers. The added cylinder pressure from increasing the power with more fuel and advanced timing can lead to head bolt stretch and ultimately head gasket failure. These problems are correctable, but the expense can be thousands of dollars.

A final word on the programmers and tuning. The best fuel economy comes from the tune that uses the least amount of fuel. The way the tuners accomplish that is to add injection timing. If you have gauges, and you watch your EGTs, you'll see a drop in EGTs from the tune. This is going to give you a false sense of safety. Because the EGTs are down, you'll think it's safe to run the truck harder, but the truth is, the cylinder pressures are much higher and you risk head gasket failure.

Changing your driving style would be the least expensive, but it's the hardest to accomplish because of the temptation to go with the flow of traffic and the demands placed on us to seemingly always be in a hurry. Slowing down on the whole, take longer getting up to speed, watch the boost gauge and keep the boost as low as possible at all times will honestly do as much as a programmer. With my own truck, the difference between driving 70-75 with the flow of traffic and slowing down to 55 and just letting people pass me is 3mpg! Ultimately, YOU choose what the fuel economy is going to be.

The place to start is maintenance though. Good maintenance on these trucks means 5,000 mile oil changes and 15,000 mile fuel filter changes, and honestly, if you don't drive that many miles, those services should be done annually. Truth be told, you need to have the health of the oil cooler assessed before you do anything. You're also over 100k, so it's time for fresh lubes in the differentials, transfer case, transmission, and power steering systems. You should also change the brake fluid and check the brake pads and emergency brake shoes.

Tire pressures also make a small difference in fuel economy, as do the types tires you have installed. Pressures should be at least what the door sticker says cold, and can be as much as the maximum on the sidewall. An exception would be tires that have a lower maximum pressure than the door sticker, but that is mostly with M/Ts. Speaking of Mud Terrain tires, they will net the worst mileage for a given size. A tire designated as a Highway Rib design will be the most fuel efficient. Like driving style, you have to make the decision on how much you want to trade off in one area for another here, Off-Road abilities or Fuel Economy?

I know that's a lot more than 2 cents, but it's all valid.

The Current Truck (Oct-2013 to Present):
1999 (Early) F-350 Lariat, CCLB, SRW, Black/Tan

7.3L Powerstroke, 4R100, 4x4, 3.73, 37x13.50-18s, '05 Axle Swap, 6" Fabtech lift, GTP38 "D66" turbo upgrade, SCT 4-position chip with custom tuning by me, Straight Piped 4" down pipe through 5" dual stacks, N-Fab full length triple steps, Pro-Tech cab guard and tool box, louvered 5th wheel gate, Hella 500 Fog and Driving lamps, much more to come...
The one I'll miss, (Mar-2009 to Jan-2014):
2000 Excursion XLT 4x4

6.8L V-10, 4R100, 4.30, 285/75-18, 271whp / 388wtq
The one I won't, (Jul-2005 to Sep-2012):
2005 F-350 XLT, CCLB, SRW, 4x4 FX4

6.0L PSD, ZF-6S650, 3.73, 35x12.5-18, 4.5" Lift
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