time for a change - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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time for a change

Well, after another sub-stellar towing performance by my truck...I think I am going to have break down and get those 160cc singles installed. Sure...I was pulling in 100* heat with a 35mph side wind...but truck just seemed sluggish. Plus I am having some other issues...so time to solve them by elimination.

Do I need to get all new washers for the injectors? I am a bit stupid on all of this...I admit it. I am also toying with the idea of just hiring the local diesel shop to replace them for me. I know that everybody says to do it my self...but Lord if I screw up my motor has an extra hole in it that didn't used to be there .

Can somebody point me to step by baby step instructions on how to change injectors...I mean injectors for dummies type instructions? I really would like to get this done before our next camping trip in a couple of weeks.

Unless somebody lives close and is willing to help change injectors, I'll replay with all the ice cold beverage you can drink...and inch thick ribeyes on the grill.

~Dave~

2012 F350 KR Dually, stock...bone stock.

early 99 PSD CC F250, DP Tuner F-5, Stealth Stage I, Casserly 160cc singles, Monsterbox Tranny, MBRP cool duals, ITP Regulated fuel system, Cobalts and Performax gauges, and way to much else to remember right now. **traded**

2004 Excursion Limited 6.0L, Dipricol gauges on the A-Pillar, Bilsteins and BFG's on the corners, lost EGR (not looking hard for it either), ARP studs, RCD Black Onyx head gaskets, MBRP 4" exhaust, (labor performed by Dan @ Midwest Transmission) **giggled when traded**

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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 01:28 AM
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i wish you were closer Dave... I would gladly help you out...
remove everything to get valve covers off... (this is easy part)...
then unhook the injectors, remove the 8mm bolt on the bottom.. you dont have to remove the top one... then pry the injectors out..

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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 02:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Aaron...what about going in? I'll have to get all the oil/fuel out of the cylinders along with making sure the new injectors are properly seated. I saw that there is a washer kit for new injectors. Do I need to order in 8 of these kits first?

~Dave~

2012 F350 KR Dually, stock...bone stock.

early 99 PSD CC F250, DP Tuner F-5, Stealth Stage I, Casserly 160cc singles, Monsterbox Tranny, MBRP cool duals, ITP Regulated fuel system, Cobalts and Performax gauges, and way to much else to remember right now. **traded**

2004 Excursion Limited 6.0L, Dipricol gauges on the A-Pillar, Bilsteins and BFG's on the corners, lost EGR (not looking hard for it either), ARP studs, RCD Black Onyx head gaskets, MBRP 4" exhaust, (labor performed by Dan @ Midwest Transmission) **giggled when traded**

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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 02:51 AM
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i literally just pulled my stock ad's this afternoon in 100* heat in the driveway, was not bad at all. do a search for injector removal, i saw some videos on here and i had them out in about two hours all eight!!! idk how much a shop would charge you... good luck

2000 f350 7.3 ext cab 6speed- 4inch dp, 5inch straight pipe, ts 6 pos chip. stock 140 100 75 50 high idle, zoodad, fpr shimmed, 6637 intake, 5inch lift, foil delete, beans idm, stage one injectors....r.i.p was fun when it lasted

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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 02:53 AM
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when you pry them out make sure you push the retainer plate up towards the engine valley... wont come out without doing this trust me

2000 f350 7.3 ext cab 6speed- 4inch dp, 5inch straight pipe, ts 6 pos chip. stock 140 100 75 50 high idle, zoodad, fpr shimmed, 6637 intake, 5inch lift, foil delete, beans idm, stage one injectors....r.i.p was fun when it lasted

94 mack rd e7350 mack 12speed roll bed
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 03:21 AM
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when i put the set in the work truck i put the injectors in and left the glowplugs out, then put the valve covers on, pulled the fuel pump fuse/relay and cranked the engine over.

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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 03:32 AM
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Swamps has decent Instructions http://www.swampsdiesel.com/ This guy also has a decent instructions http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/repair.htm I used both along with the Factory Manual, but in a Van you have a few issues... F series would be a piece of Cake....the biggest thing is keeping everything clean and avoiding the dreaded Hydrostatic Lock ...

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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 05:56 AM
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Pull the back two first on each side...

Wait for about 10 minutes, remove the glow plugs, remove the rest of the retainer bolts, clean something...

Remove the rest of the injectors.

Install new O rings, coppers and lube the piss out of all of them.

Wait for 10 minutes or so for the O rings to relax and while doing this check all the cups for left overs (coppers, debris)...

Install new injectors, TQ to spec, check with a level that they are all fully seated.

install each valve cover with a bolt or two..

Jump the starter seliond a few times... Bump... bump... bump...bump.... Turn it over for a while (5-7 second)

Remove the valve covers, install the glow plugs, UVC and button everything up.

Cycle the key 4 or 5 times until the fuel pressure builds back up in the rails...

Crank for 15-20 seconds... It should start on the 3 or 4th crank.

Once up to temp, run the piss out of it to get the air out of the system. If you baby it, it will take 100 miles or more to the the air out, run the piss out of it, and your good to go in 15 miles.

01 F-250 SC PSD,210k,16 Isspro Gauges, AFE-2,CCV Mod,IAH delete,map reg,Modded H2e, 6.0 IC, GTS Hybrid injectors, Studs, 910 Valve springs, Forged rods Water injection,Swamps tuned, MBRP 4" dual's, Aero, 6" tip's, 100 axl tank, 4" Revtek lift, 37-14.50-17 TOYO MT's 469hp and 1068tq...

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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 03:26 AM Thread Starter
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Well...I began this project tonight. Got to the point where I needed a wobble to get the rear most valve cover bolt off. I'll get a wobble tomorrow and continue plodding on.

I see everybody refer to jumping the starter solenoid. How do you do this? Can I instead just crawl under the truck and turn the motor over by hand...or unplug the cps and bump it with a key start?

Do I need to take the AC compressor off to get at everything on the passenger side?

~Dave~

2012 F350 KR Dually, stock...bone stock.

early 99 PSD CC F250, DP Tuner F-5, Stealth Stage I, Casserly 160cc singles, Monsterbox Tranny, MBRP cool duals, ITP Regulated fuel system, Cobalts and Performax gauges, and way to much else to remember right now. **traded**

2004 Excursion Limited 6.0L, Dipricol gauges on the A-Pillar, Bilsteins and BFG's on the corners, lost EGR (not looking hard for it either), ARP studs, RCD Black Onyx head gaskets, MBRP 4" exhaust, (labor performed by Dan @ Midwest Transmission) **giggled when traded**

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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 03:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 4cstr View Post
Well...I began this project tonight. Got to the point where I needed a wobble to get the rear most valve cover bolt off. I'll get a wobble tomorrow and continue plodding on.

I see everybody refer to jumping the starter solenoid. How do you do this? Can I instead just crawl under the truck and turn the motor over by hand...or unplug the cps and bump it with a key start?

Do I need to take the AC compressor off to get at everything on the passenger side?
If you have a deep well socket you can get to that bolt without a wobble, or a gear wrench if you have one. Its not perfect, but it gets the job done.

jump the solenoid, its on the passanger side wheel well. large flat nose screwdriver on the bottom post, contact the top post and the starter spins!

Works like a charm!

AC compressor can stay right where its at...

01 F-250 SC PSD,210k,16 Isspro Gauges, AFE-2,CCV Mod,IAH delete,map reg,Modded H2e, 6.0 IC, GTS Hybrid injectors, Studs, 910 Valve springs, Forged rods Water injection,Swamps tuned, MBRP 4" dual's, Aero, 6" tip's, 100 axl tank, 4" Revtek lift, 37-14.50-17 TOYO MT's 469hp and 1068tq...

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Last edited by CSIPSD; 07-08-2010 at 03:34 AM.
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