wheel bearing question - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-19-2010, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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wheel bearing question

im putting a new wheel bearing assembly on my superduty and the cost difference between the 4 wheel abs and the 2 wheel abs is a hundred dollars the 4 wheel abs being cheaper, my question is there a difference between the 4 wheel and the 2 wheel models besides the sensor, meaning can i just buy the 4 wheel abs bearing and chop off the wire and will it work the same to save a hundred bucks.

99.5 F-250 7.3 4X4 reg cab.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 03:28 AM
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You can use the ABS style on NON ABS, I do all the time.

It cost more the manufacture the ABS style then the NON ABS, but the ABS hub sell 100 to 1 over the NON ABS

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 04:00 AM Thread Starter
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alright awesome now my second question is, the (bearing?) behind the knuckle and the u joint on the axle is really sloppy are those a really tough job to replace? i wanna do all the stuff when i have the bearing off. and i think thats where the grinding im hearing is actually coming from.

99.5 F-250 7.3 4X4 reg cab.
custom intake
dp tuner
suncoast/DTT Frankentrans
and a whole bunch of other crap i dont really need.

www.cabincreekpaintball.com

Last edited by ccp; 07-20-2010 at 04:07 AM.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 04:40 AM
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alright the (bearing?) behind the knuckle and the u joint on the axle is really sloppy are those a really tough job to replace? i wanna do all the stuff when i have the bearing off. and i think thats where the grinding im hearing is actually coming from.
there is no bearing on the inside of the axle U-joint, that is and inner axle shaft seal. You will need pull the axle shaft and there with be a lot of crap in the axle tube. I took a five foot piece of 3/8" round stock and welded a toe of a 000 horse shoe to it (half moon, i should post a pic) and used it to pull all the rust and mud out of the axle shaft.

there is a big ($40) seal on the out side of the axle U-joint that sits in the spindle. This is the outer axle (vacuum seal) this seal takes a special tool ($150) to install and is a real ***** with out the seal driver.

there is an axle shaft bearing in you hub/bearing assembly the new one should have this, If you think the axle shaft bearing it's like $9 @ NAPA.

I put like 100k miles a year on my 4x4 F550 and I have to replace all the axle shaft seals and bearing like once a year. They suck. I just did it to my truck a few weeks ago and I can't find the ford receipt to give you the part #s

buy or borrow the out axle shaft seal installer tool it is well worth it.

Grease the axle shaft bearing

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Last edited by hayjayhorses; 07-20-2010 at 04:48 AM.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 04:44 AM Thread Starter
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i have a metal lathe can i just make a tool that is the same size as the seal to beat it in there? or is there something really really special about that tool? and im still confused is the one that needs the special tool on the long side or the short side of the axle the one i need is on the long side that goes into the diff. i believe its called the knuckle seal? its the one that holds the axle in the in place.

99.5 F-250 7.3 4X4 reg cab.
custom intake
dp tuner
suncoast/DTT Frankentrans
and a whole bunch of other crap i dont really need.

www.cabincreekpaintball.com

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 04:55 AM
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yeah, I would make it.

It puts equal pressure on the inner and out seal, when you drive the seal it going against the axle shaft and the spindle, and the seal driver lines it up nice.

At the end the seal driver(SD) (the part against the seal) the last 3/8" (or so) is the same O.D. as the seal than the SD steps out to fit the spindle.

look at one, go bug an over paid Ford teck

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 05:03 AM Thread Starter
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good idea! i gotta go to the stealership tomorrow for studs for the bearing and get bent over on those, i might as well get some useful information out of those down there. im sure it will all fall together when i get out to the driveway tomorrow morning the hub wont give up and just pull out so i used a liberal amount of pb blaster on everything so it might give up tomorrow if not im going to have to make it give up.

99.5 F-250 7.3 4X4 reg cab.
custom intake
dp tuner
suncoast/DTT Frankentrans
and a whole bunch of other crap i dont really need.

www.cabincreekpaintball.com
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 05:12 AM
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i reuse the old studs, heat+vise grips= they come out.

also a big slide hammer helps, I don't even pull rotor and adapter off (all mine are duelys) if you got singles it's less weight,

If you buy new studs use an impact hammer on the old studs the help push it out, thats the easiest way

Also place a drain pan under your power steering pump it will piss out fluid as you turn the wheel back and fourth.

good luck

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 05:20 AM Thread Starter
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the studs im talking about are the four on the back side of the hub assembly im not sure if you are talking about the same thing or not..and why would the pump piss out fluid?

99.5 F-250 7.3 4X4 reg cab.
custom intake
dp tuner
suncoast/DTT Frankentrans
and a whole bunch of other crap i dont really need.

www.cabincreekpaintball.com
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 05:35 AM
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yeah the four studs on the back

you need to turn the wheel back and forth a few times to reach the bolts and the hammer on the studs.

as for fluid when you turn the wheel by the wheels that touch the ground (not the steering wheel) it will piss fluid if the truck is not running, no big deal.

It dose this because the valves in the steering box are actuated by the input shaft (from steering wheel) not the out put shaft (Pittman arm), It causes fluid to back up in the reservoir, you'll see. Unless your going to turn the wheel from inside the truck.

Jay Noone
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I got hay
abolish the Federal Reserve, they are the real problem

Vote Ron Paul 2012
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