Help Battery Drainage??? - Diesel Truck Forum -
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 04:50 AM Thread Starter
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Help Battery Drainage???

My brother has a 99 sd 250 7.3 4x4 with a intermittent battery problem. for starters - it has two brand new red top optima's. At any given time (could be over night or could be two weeks) the batteries will be completely dead. The first thing we thought of it could be is the alarm/remote starter. we unplugged it and problem still there Second thing thought of maybe glow plug relay disconnected that problem still there. If anyone might know the next thing to try please let us know. I'm leaving tomorrow for the weekend so I won't be able to answer any replies till Monday evening. thanks in advanced.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-25-2010, 12:42 AM
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Check alternator. Mine the alternator would check fine in parts store but the regulator was bad. Would go a couple weeks then one day I would need a jump. It would sustain a charge but not always enough. Put a volt meter on batteries and see if it charges up to 14 volts. If not, unplug regulator on alt give a few seconds and plug back in. If it charges for a few seconds then quits thats probably the problem.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-25-2010, 02:49 PM
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I just went through a similar problem. Here's what happened:
1. Chip was coming loose, creating a short in the computer. Had to remove the chip.
2. Windshield was leaking, then dripping on the fuse box and the GEM module. Any rain, dew, or condensation would kill the batteries in about six hours.
3. Battery cables were corroded, creating a loss of amps going to the starter and a loss of amps going from the alternator to the battery.

Get some 0 gauge wire, and make your own battery cables. It's not hard to make, and cheaper than factory. Do a search on this site for instructions.

Good luck,

2001 F-350 Supercab 4x4 Lariat
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-25-2010, 09:31 PM
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what is the gem module, i have had this problem for over a year and had no idea what was going on

2000 f350 7.3 ext cab 6speed- 4inch dp, 5inch straight pipe, ts 6 pos chip. stock 140 100 75 50 high idle, zoodad, fpr shimmed, 6637 intake, 5inch lift, foil delete, beans idm, stage one injectors....r.i.p was fun when it lasted

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks orangeruby84 and Woody303 I'll give the alternator regulator a try. hey woody I have found water on pass. side floor board before but nothing seems to be corroded. I won't get a change to do anything till this weekend but I'll let ya know how things went.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-01-2010, 01:18 AM
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liquid on pass side floorboard usually a leaky heater core.

03 F-250 Lariat 4X4 6.0L- NEW ID PROGRAMED FICM 105,000 (sitting on shelf while I figure out whats going on with the turd...furd) wheel berring 103,000 Dfuser coolant filter104,000, EGR plug104,000mi, y-pipe109,800mi,bootlegged 3.5" straight pipe110,000, rotors and pads on all 4 points 110,400mi, 35X12.50R17 Toyo M/[email protected] 111,300 ICP sensor 115,000
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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back to where we were at. Trip it's definitely not antifreeze.

The alternator and regulator are fine, and physically everything else looks fine.
So we are going to make an appointment to get the windshield resealed
and buy one of these.

Cole Hersee Introduces Surestart™ Low Voltage Disconnect Switch 48513

I'll drag this thread back up in a month or so and let whoever wants to know
how things are going. Thanks for the input.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-28-2010, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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Fixed I Think

While at the local glass shop had them check the cab lights and bingo there was the leak .Could not get just the rubber gaskets so I bought the whole kit from the stealer. I think it was about 150 bucks. nothing was done to the windshield. And I never installed this switch (Cole Hersee Introduces Surestart™ Low Voltage Disconnect Switch 48513) that was about 3 months ago. ( no more dead batteries)
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-28-2010, 08:58 PM
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looks like cole hersee is outta biz - now part of littlefuse, cant find much of any detail
about that battery isolator/switch or how much it costs.

if you need a good electronic battery isolator / switch, that can be controlled from an
interior switch (allows you to "jump start" yourself from INSIDE) - i highly recommend
the BLUESEA Magnetic Latch isolation/relay - i use one to isolate my 3rd battery !

the BlueSea ML Remote Battery Switch will NOT charge the 3rd battery IF the
alternator is not putting out enough voltage to maintain/charge the primary batteries
and it AUTOMATICALLY disconnects or ISOLATES my 3rd battery when the alternator
is NOT charging (aka truck turned off) - this prevents the primary and/or the back up
batteries from draining the others (if one or ANY battery is bad) !

its COMPLETELY water proof (marine grade) - so you can mount it ANYWHERE w/out
worry or concern (mine is mounted sideways under the hood, but i know someone that
has his mounted UNDER his Quigley VAN !

Don R.

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Last edited by bushpilot; 12-28-2010 at 09:03 PM.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-29-2010, 11:21 PM
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Take a look at the large wire that attaches to the backside of the alternator. I was having weird probs and bought a new alternator only to find out the wire was hanging by a thread to the lug. I just resoldered it and all was fine.
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