Please help now - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-18-2011, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Please help now

My husband is on way to work. Truck shut off while going down the road and it cranks, but won't start. He said it seems like it isn't getting any fuel. All gages work. Will not start. Can someone please guide me as to what it may be so I can call him and get him back on the road?

2002 F-350 no mods.

2002 F350 CC Dually 4x4 XL Long bed. 6.0 tranny cooler, 4" MBRP exhaust, Air Raid intake, more to come....


1997 International 4700 DT466 Dump, Stock, 36k gvw
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-18-2011, 03:32 PM
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Could be CPS. Only real way to know is to replace it.

Could be Fuel Pump.

Have him drain the fuel bowl and then leave the drain open. Turn on the key.

If he sees fuel, it's not the fuel pump.

If he doesn't see fuel . . .

Have it towed.

Could be oil level. Check the oil level. These trucks will shut off with low oil level.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-19-2011, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Yeap, you guessed it. It was the CPS

Once I knew what to look for, I googled it and found this:

How to change the Camshaft Position Sensor on a 7.3 Power Stroke Diesel

Ford Part #'s: Before engine serial #375549 F6T012K073A
Serial #375549 and above F7T012K073A

International Part #'s: Before engine serial #375549 1821720C98
Serial #375549 and above 1825899C93

2. Remove the #9 fuse under the hood (not in the dash). I found another spot that said #7 (maybe do both??)
3. You may want to remove the belt for easier access, but it's not necessary.
4. Disconnect the CMP sensor electrical connector. The sensor is located towards the bottom left on the front of the engine. You'll see the single wire bundle going to the sensor.
5. Remove the old CMP sensor using a 10mm socket. Be careful not to round off the bolt (there is only 1). It's on there real tight and is tough to get to.
6. Take the new CMP sensor and coat the seal with either motor oil or Vaseline and intall it. Install the bolt and reconnect the wire connector.
7. Reinstall the #9 fuse under the hood and you should be ready to go.

I sent this info along with the part ($22 at International) and he was back on the road right away. He did say that the "real tight" part is true.

Thanks for your help. And thanks to anyone else that at least looked at this to try to help. If anyone experiences such an issue, I hope these instructions help.

-- worktruck's wife.

2002 F350 CC Dually 4x4 XL Long bed. 6.0 tranny cooler, 4" MBRP exhaust, Air Raid intake, more to come....


1997 International 4700 DT466 Dump, Stock, 36k gvw
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-22-2011, 02:07 AM
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Buy him a spare. Easier to have one in the glove box than to not. Glad he's running again.

2002 f250 4x4 SRW, 7.3L Auto, 4" exhaust, 20" rims on Toyo MT's, Boost, Pyro, Tranny ISSPRO ev's underdash pod., DP TUNER F5, stock, 60 tow, 80 , 120 race, DYI Tymar Intake

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-23-2011, 06:50 PM
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Just had the same replaced with the recall. They also replaced a fuse link near the master cylinder. Both were the cause of a repeated warning light. Truck runs smoother but the mileage is also a little lower now. The best part of the service is the tech came out while the sweet lady input my info in the computor. When she was done so was he.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 04:05 PM
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OK so I am bumping this back up as I now have the engine stall problem the recall was supposed to fix. When running the motor will die with no warning. As it is a stick I can safely leave it in gear till I pull over to stop with full brakes and steering, but with a full load I do not think this would work. How can I check this without buying new parts? I get the usual codes for a stalled motor including misfire and airflow but I did watch the dash a lot closer. I noticed the speedo dies and the tach is sparadic (or spastic). If I let it sit a while, 15-30 minutes, it will restart. Many times I get another 2-300 mile before it happens again. I hear popping under the hood for awhile so I think I am damaging the motor as if the timing was off. This truck runs too nice when it does not stall. I do not want t o blow this block.

What other things should I look for when this happens? I cannot get it to duplicate the stall with any style of driving. I am at a loss and do not want to go to the R&R dealer repairs to spend hundreds in parts on a guess.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 03:57 AM
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If the tach works, then it is probably not the CPS. It could be the HPOP or IPR as well. However if the CPS is sporadic it does sound related. If the sensor itself is good, I would trace the wiring harness back to the PCM and look for problems as well as grounds. The PCM itself could be going bad.

1996 Int 4700, 175hp DT466, 5 speed, 2x rear end, service body

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnsammy View Post
Just had the same replaced with the recall. They also replaced a fuse link near the master cylinder. Both were the cause of a repeated warning light. Truck runs smoother but the mileage is also a little lower now. The best part of the service is the tech came out while the sweet lady input my info in the computor. When she was done so was he.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnsammy View Post
OK so I am bumping this back up as I now have the engine stall problem the recall was supposed to fix. When running the motor will die with no warning. As it is a stick I can safely leave it in gear till I pull over to stop with full brakes and steering, but with a full load I do not think this would work. How can I check this without buying new parts? I get the usual codes for a stalled motor including misfire and airflow but I did watch the dash a lot closer. I noticed the speedo dies and the tach is sparadic (or spastic). If I let it sit a while, 15-30 minutes, it will restart. Many times I get another 2-300 mile before it happens again. I hear popping under the hood for awhile so I think I am damaging the motor as if the timing was off. This truck runs too nice when it does not stall. I do not want t o blow this block.

What other things should I look for when this happens? I cannot get it to duplicate the stall with any style of driving. I am at a loss and do not want to go to the R&R dealer repairs to spend hundreds in parts on a guess.
First question I have is, did the truck act like it currently does before the dealer replaced the cam sensor, or did this problem start since they replaced? Reason I ask is it wouldn't be the first time I've seen a bad cam sensor get installed by a dealer recall...another thing to look at IS the wiring as it passes up past the belt, down by the cam sensor...could be it's getting rubbed by the belt since the cam sensor recall was done...
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 07:04 PM
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Truck ran great before the dealer touched it. The recall looked real important and since I tow as much as 15,000 pounds I did not want it to fail while towing. I am now looking at buying 2 from NAPA as they will honor their inhouse warranty for me and keeping one in the door pocket will let me get home. Small price at $35 too.
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