The Diesel Garage banner

99 PSD stall, no start...

9K views 34 replies 5 participants last post by  zukkev 
#1 ·
:help
Ok folks, I have been trying to get this rig to fire for a couple days now...
The story goes--- buddy started truck in am (30ish*F); was running for a minute, then 'studdered' (as he puts it) for a second or so, then went back to running smoothly...He ran inside to grab a couple things and was talking to his wife, truck stalled and never restarted again;
I can crank it over, and the tach is reading ~220rpms on my MT2500;
HPOP resivoir is full, but I am only seeing ~150psi on ICP pid, and IPR% is maxed at 65% on scan tool when cranking......tried disconnecting the Edge tuner to no avail; After researching, it seemed I was headed in right direction of a stuck IPR, so I ran into town (40 miles) and picked up a new IPR from Ford...installed it, and still no start---ICP still only gets to ~150; unplug the ICP completely, and ICP ramps to 2340psi, and IPR% at 34% when cranking---still no start!!! HELP!!! I think I'm on the right track, but am I missing something??? thanks in advance! :help
 
#3 ·
Do you think the rpms is correct? At 220 rpm, I don't think you could get enough oil pressure to start. Try jumping it to see if if spins faster.
 
#4 ·
Both batteries are fully charged, and I even tried leaving the Chargers (yes, chargers) in 200A crank mode, which didn't change the RPM reading any...which tells me the batts are charged...
I have worked on quite a few of these, and have seen anywhere from 200-250 cranking rpms on rigs that run perfectly...This one's got me stumped. can't seem to build HPOP psi...unless the ICP is disconnected of course...and still no start. Next step is to get it to my place so I don't have a 30+ mile drive to check it out---trying to get it here tomorrow. Hoping for any other leads or tips that I may be able to check out once here...Thanks!
 
#5 ·
Oh, and a little more info I forgot to divulge---it did have the P0605 ROM error code I'm assuming due to the Edge tuner... Also had a P1211, and P1212 prior to me messing with it...Again, once it's here at home I will go over everything again---
 
#8 ·
Not a fan of Ether..seen bad things happen...
no smoke at all out the pipe...and no recent oil change---it's actually overdue! :roflol: The temps here don't get cold enough to run a thinner oil than 15w40; and this thing has 275K miles on the clock, so I doubt this rig has real tight, like new tolerances anyhow! :shrugs
One thing I did notice is, even though my MT2500 showed rpm signal, the Edge does not show an rpm signal...maybe I didn't completely disconnect the Egde, and it is the problem all along!?!???? Now, when I disconnected the Edge from the ICP, the Edge doesn't light up at all, so I thought it was out of the loop...and the ICP reading does read 2300+ psi cranking at this point...could this possibly be as simple as a bad ICP sensor? If this were the case, wouldn't disconnecting the ICP connector cause it to go into a default value (limp mode) and start???
I don't know, I got the rig here today, and close to the shop door...:happydance So I will go back to the basics, and recheck everything---including a buzz test. I'll admit I jumped this step thinking I was onto something with low ICP readings...kinda took the elmerfudd (aka;shotgun!) approach, and it bit me! :damnit
 
#9 ·
Disconnecting the ICP will send it in to default mode. It wouldn't hurt to try it.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I did disconnect the ICP, although wiring from the Edge tuner also ties into it, so I'm not sure I got valid results, as the tuner may well be teits up but I didn't get it completely out of the loop the first try...we'll see what happens tomorrow (well, later today! :usflag)....
I've heard never seen bad things from ether lol it sounds like a chip or icp issue to me but I'm no expert.. You mIght try after the buzz test if it comes back good run the block heater see what happens.. Just my shade tree ideas I wish ya luck!
This one's not a GP/cold temp issue---they're working, but thanks! :) Keep in mind I have absolutely no smoke out the pipe.... ;)
 
#13 · (Edited)
I think you have a stuck injector. i would pull the valve covers remove the relay for the IDM and crank it to see what one was dumping the oil. when it shuttered it all most stuck and when it stalled it did stick.
You really dont need to pull the relay if it is dumping enough oil that it wont start then you will see it any way.
 
#15 ·
Course, now that I get the chance to check it out---the Batt's are low (tow truck driver left key on, or owner tried to crank it over since I last charged batt's...who knows!)---thinking maaaybe there's an issue there, but shouldn't cause the low ICP pressure issue-
Did manage to run the buzz test, and did get P1280, P1211, and P1212 codes....cleared them and re-ran buzz, but the test keeps aborting (low voltage I'm assuming), so they are on the chargers....
Thinking about the whole injector stuck open possibility now....shouldn't this only cause low pressure on one bank, since there are two high pressure lines coming off the HPOP??? If so, then wouldn't the rig start, just run like poopoo??? Or does a sticking injector cause low ICP across the board because the two ports off the HPOP are coming from a common chamber???
Sorry if I'm overthinking this, just would like to know!
 
#17 ·
I recall being able to figure out which side the leak's coming from now that you mention it...Thanks!
Why would you go after that one? I Haven't had any issues with them in the past personally---that's not to say their quality's not changed though...
 
#20 · (Edited)
GOT IT!!!

Welp, pulled the valve covers and had the wifey crank it over....SURE ENOUGH, Injector #4 is DUMPING oil into the valve cover area (#2 was the one I replaced last yr! There are now 7 NEW injectors on order...
I Should mention that these OEM injectors made it 275K, the #2 OEM made it approx 235K before puking, so 200K expectancy isn't too far off!

:happydance Dave, thanks fer the tip! :rock
:usflag Once again, the folks here on TDG come thru! :usflag
 
#21 · (Edited)
Welp, pulled the valve covers and had the wifey crank it over....SURE ENOUGH, Injector #4 is DUMPING oil into the valve cover area (#2 was the one I replaced last yr! There are now 7 NEW injectors on order...
I Should mention that these OEM injectors made it 275K, the #2 OEM made it approx 235K before puking, so 200K expectancy isn't too far off!

:happydance Dave, thanks fer the tip! :rock
:usflag Once again, the folks here on TDG come thru! :usflag
You are welcome :), Glad it is on the mend. I thought you had installed a reman not a new injector. It is funny that the one that went before is right next to the one that went this time. good plan with that many miles to just do the rest of them.
 
#22 ·
Well, got all the injectors in, just need to torque them....I have 120 in./lbs. as the spec., but am reading some about issues of them coming loose after a few hundred miles---personally have not experienced this, but it got me a little concerned, so what say all???
I have read anything from just re-torquing to spec after a few hundred miles, to tightening as tight as you can get with a 1/4dr ratchet (someone on another forum said SWAMPS recommended this method)!!! NOT a fan of the latter myself, as I would be concerned with distorting the sleeves....
 
#23 ·
120 inch pounds. Do them all then go over them again before you install the valve covers.
Most times they come lose was when the oil in the hole caused a hyd. lock and it didnt torque right to start with. just retork them 10 min later and you will be fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: strokinit
#24 · (Edited)
I am extremely meticulous when it comes to making sure the sleeves are clean, and all the oil/fuel is out of the combustion chamber... I have an evacuator that has the right size tube to go thru the sleeve hole, then I roll the engine so the piston's down, that way I can get to the lowest point in the combustion chamber... I did double check the torque on all the hold down bolts...120 in./lbs. ---twice; She's GTG...
IT LIVES!!! :happydance :happydance :happydance Primed the HPOP resivoir, then bumped it a couple times to make damn sure it wouldn't hydrolock, then cranked for about 20-30 seconds, she lit!!! Still need to button up a few odds and ends, and burp the air out of it as it still runs abit rough, but IT RUNS!!!! :usflag
Dave, Thanks again for all your insight/help!!!! :rock :rock
 
#25 ·
Runs Great!!! Had a small fuel leak coming from the filter housing drain valve---got that resealed....
However, there is a pretty substantial oil leak coming from the right rear corner of the engine....the valley is dry...appears to be coming from the rear main seal cover. :gaah
 
#26 ·
.....there is a pretty substantial oil leak coming from the right rear corner of the engine....the valley is dry...appears to be coming from the rear main seal cover. :gaah
EDIT: The valley is NOT dry, but it also is not soaking wet up by the HPOP; Part of the wetness up there is likely from my changing the IPR solenoid; but there is definitely something else leaking, was quite wet toward the rear of the valley, and when I sprayed it with brake cleaner I could hear it running into the catch pan, so I dove under there and sure enough, it's running from the area where the oil was leaking from! So now I'm not too sure it's the rear main cover; I finished cleaning up the valley with cleaner and a blow gun, let it run for 1/2 hr, but no fresh wet trail of oil as of yet---may need to drive this thing for a spell & recheck---have to head to work for now, but will be at it again tomorrow!!! :) :gaah
 
#27 · (Edited)
:happydance I drove this into town to a car wash to wash the engine down, and before doing so, I went ahead and checked the valley---sure enough , HPOP is leaking, and appears to be the rear cover seal (back of the pump); I didn't notice yesterday that a mouse or something had built a nice lil house under the HPOP with what evidently is very good at soaking up oil!!! When I cleaned out the valley out came a bunch of insulation-looking crud....soaked in oil....
out comes the HPOP next week! :rock
 
#29 ·
Thanks Dave...
But I cleaned off the pump, and ran it again, confirming the large seal on the rear is indeed leaking--truck's got 275K on it, and the pump's never been changed.... the owner opted for replacing the entire pump for that reason rather than trying to reseal this one.
 
#30 ·
Hey just wondering But what are new injectors going for? i HAVE A GUY WITH 265k miles and I think we will be replacing his soon and he ask how much they are. also where do you get them? you can pm me if you dont want it on the board.
 
#31 ·
Welp, this one's fixed! NO MO OIL LEAK!!! Turns out not only was the rear pump cover seal leaking, but the little ball bearing thingy on the bottom of the pump housing (under the IPR chamber) was also leaking! Soooo, replacing the HPOP was in the end the best decision on this one...:usflag
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top