TRANNY DRAIN PLUG LEAKING. - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 04:45 AM Thread Starter
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TRANNY DRAIN PLUG LEAKING.

Has anyone repaired a drain plug in a tranny pan. I had my tranny serviced at midas shop and i think they over tightened it now it just spins and leaks,it wont loosen or tighten and just leaks. can and how do you replace this plug? Thanx for your suport

2000 F-350 7.3L
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 02:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntem View Post
Has anyone repaired a drain plug in a tranny pan. I had my tranny serviced at midas shop and i think they over tightened it now it just spins and leaks,it wont loosen or tighten and just leaks. can and how do you replace this plug? Thanx for your suport
I think I would call them and complain first. Seems like the threads in my torqshift were a pressed in part. If its the same on the 4r100 then the pan may need to be replaced or possibly stake the pressed in part with a punch to keep it from spinning.

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 04:51 AM Thread Starter
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I think I would call them and complain first. Seems like the threads in my torqshift were a pressed in part. If its the same on the 4r100 then the pan may need to be replaced or possibly stake the pressed in part with a punch to keep it from spinning.
yep its like a crimp fit. They broke loose. im gonna tig it and make it beter than new. I didnt catch it in time for them to fix it. The truck was down with a blowen engine for a while. thanx for the response WELD.

2000 F-350 7.3L
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 08:25 PM
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Even better - obviously my preferred method involves a bright blue light. Soak it good with some carb cleaner and dry for a while to avoid swiss cheese.

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-31-2012, 04:48 AM Thread Starter
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Even better - obviously my preferred method involves a bright blue light. Soak it good with some carb cleaner and dry for a while to avoid swiss cheese.
Welding it worked out vary well. Its to bad it wasnt welded in the first place.." WHEN IN DOUBT WELD IT". Thanxs for the help.

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