Doh! Anyone else do this while installing your DP? - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-22-2013, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Doh! Anyone else do this while installing your DP?

So I got my MBRP DP done in about two hrs. Not bad gauging from some of the horror stories I've heard. And I did it solo. I just used the sawzall to cut the stock DP and then the sawzall to cut the seam or pinch-weld thingy, then a digging bar to torque it outa the way and : Wa-la DONE!

However..... I was not able to take'er for a test drive cause, as much of a pain as the DP install was, I just HAD to make my life even MORE difficult.

While kneeling under the hood....all up on the DP zone where I'm concentrating on making space with a pry bar/sawzall etc., I managed to break off the plastic nipple on my radiator that connects the rubber hose to the overflow/filler bottle. Yea, you know the one........pretty important....
SO, the question is, is there a crafty fix for this? I'm guessing JB Weld might be too hoopty a fix in this case.
Any suggestions...other than plop down a few hundred for a new radiator?
Anyone done this yet or am I first?

Much thanks,
Mcstiggs
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-22-2013, 06:16 PM
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I definitely did the exact same thing. So don't feel too bad. It was 6 years ago though, and don't remembereexactly what we did to fix it. But I'm almost positive it was jb weld. I'll ask my brother when I get home and get back to you. But mine has held since then. So you definitely shouldn't end IP buying a radiator

'96 F-250 SC LB 4x4 Auto, DP F5 80 tow high alt 80 econo 120 race, TC lockup switch, ICP mod, 4" Mbrp duals, 3" dp
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 01:35 PM
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So on mine we cleaned it up and tapped it with a 1/8 tap and used a 1/8 pipe nipple on it with some epoxy. I didn't have time to take a picture of it. But i will later on.

'96 F-250 SC LB 4x4 Auto, DP F5 80 tow high alt 80 econo 120 race, TC lockup switch, ICP mod, 4" Mbrp duals, 3" dp
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thhanks for the Tip

Here's what I done,

I used the JB Weld that is specific for uses around water, chemicals, etc. I think It's called "Water Weld". I used that to form up a 'Volcano' like mound around a lubed drill bit that was inserted into the hole in the radiator. Then I pulled the bit out and flattened the mound out a bit. So now after it cured, I had a perfect pilot hole to start with. I was able to use the 1/8" pipe thread tap and drill bit that I'd recently acquired to use for my gauge install.

It seemed to work just fine. Not rock solid at first, so I took an extra bit of JB and built it up a little thicker around the brass fitting once it had cured. I think It will work just fine......as long as I keep my knee away from it.

Time will tell.

Mcstiggs
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-29-2013, 03:06 AM
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I did it the same thing on a different truck. Drilled it out and tapped it to 1/8" pipe and installed a brass hose barb. Used a bunch of pipe dope on it too. Then there was another radiator I did the same thing on and that one I just used JB weld to reattach the broken piece. Then let it set overnight. Neither of them have had any issues but I kinda trust the one with the pipe tap a little more. If you do a google search, there is a youtube video of a guy showing how to fix a busted nipple on a 6.0L PSD radiator. He used the drill and tap method.

'94 F250xlt ext. cab. ZF5-speed 4x4. EBPV delete. DPP downpipe. Tymar intake. Tymar coolant filter. LF9691 primary filter. Electric fans. 10k mod. 1.0 turbo housing. Boost blanket. Over-axle exhaust eliminated. Electric fuel pressure gauge. BDP modded IDM. Heim joint clutch linkage. Adrenaline HPOP. LUK SMFW. DIY Elec. Fuel. FS1282, FF5230 fuel filters.
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