Starting Problems 7.3L 2000 - Diesel Truck Forum -
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 04:58 AM Thread Starter
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Starting Problems 7.3L 2000

I have the 2000 F-250 Crewcab 7.3L 2WD. Y'all here were very helpful a few months back when I had other starting problems that I traced to a bad glow plug relay.

Here are the latest starting problem symptoms:
-If the engine sits longer than a couple hours or overnight, it cranks very slowly. "rumm, rumm..rumm...rumm........rumm"
-when I first turn the key but don't crank it, the idiot gauge voltmeter needle goes to only 1/3 or halfway. But if the engine has been running for a while after commuting or running errands around town, at the next start the needle goes right up to almost pegging and it turns over quickly and starts immediately.
-Only way I can get it to start after the engine sets for a few hours or overnight is to crank for 5 seconds, let it set for 5 seconds and crank again for 5 seconds. Lather, rinse, repeat but it's never had to crank more than three times before the engine turns over.
-it seems on the second and third cranks the starter runs faster
-battery posts and cables are freshly cleaned & wirebrushed. Connections are TIGHT.
-took the truck to Advance Auto after work tonite. The manager was very helpful. We turned the headlights on, removed the negative cable from each battery one at a time and each tested out as good.

My Half-baked Diagnosis:
*A couple friends of mine also own or have owned the 7.3L. They narrowed it down to bad battery or batteries (before I went to Advance Auto tonite), bad starter solenoid relay or bad starter.

*the Advance manager thinks its the starter. He said the starter will drag and turn slowly when its cold but once it heats up it cranks fast. He said if its the starter and its starting to go bad, when it dies completely I'll be stuck and need a tow.

*one of my 7.3L friends said he'd had the same starting problems a few years back and it was the starter solenoid relay, mounted on the fenderwell.

*of course, the store manager said my safest bet is to replace both the solenoid and the starter but I'm on a tight budget this month due to other unforeseen expenses.

The starter is not bad, at about $170 if I fix it myself. My friend and I can do it.

The solenoid is inexpensive at only $25 and I can do that by myself in about 15 minutes even with the crappy tools I have.

I don't want to do "reconnaisance by fire" - in other words replace part after part after part until the problem goes away. I'd rather replace the right part the first time.

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!

Last edited by Catch-All; 07-10-2013 at 05:06 AM.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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I got more feedback from other 7.3L owners I know. They all said starter motor.

To heck with it - I bought it at Advance just now and will install it tonite. Upon reading the reviews about this starter on Advance's site, several posts mentioned that there are two bolts holding the OEM motor but there are holes for three bolts and the flange on the aftermarket motor also have three mounting holes.

What bolt size & thread will I need for this?

Thanks in advance for any help

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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Got The Answer

The bolts that attach the starter to the engine housing are 10mm x 1.5mm x 35mm.

Everything I've read say make darn sure to use threadlocker.
-do a trial insert of the bolts first by hand. If there's any binding use a 10mm x 1.5mm tap and some good penetrant oil to clean out the threads
-glop some Loctite onto each bolt
-have three new bolts on hand just in case any of the old bolts get rounded off, whatever.

Will let y'all know how the removal/ install goes.....

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-11-2013, 01:03 AM
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The first thing I would do is, remove the grounds from both batteries and independently with a regulated 10 amp charger, charge both batteries, one at a time, till the light comes on then try it.
The computerized battery testers work perfectly, they do not tell you that one battery is at a lower charge percentage of the other.
I like to do the cheap stuff first, diagnosis by the ripping and tearing method is an expensive way to repair a problem.
Just a thought!

1988 ford van fresh overhaul, 1991 nissan pick-up 1993 Caprice 2000 GMC S10 Blaser 2007 nbs 3500 GMC 4x4 crew-cab long box 17 inch single wheels Duramax Alison. BW turnover Ball. Furakawa FL35 loader. Retired, HD mechanic, worked on engines all my life. Fabricator welder. electrician. in the process of finishing my new shop. Live in Rock Creek B.C. Wife has a fruit stand.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-25-2013, 04:09 PM
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Sounds a lot more like a battery issue, or poor connections at the battery, or starter B+, or ground connections than the starter itself...
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