New 7.3 owner. - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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New 7.3 owner.

Ok, I said in my hello message this:

Quote:
I've been driving them for years at work, but just purchased my first diesel.

What I bought is a 01 F350 7.3 turbo 4x4 (non-dually) with about 250k on it.

What I'm looking for is to triple the torque on it, for $50!! Just kidding, I know enough to know that's horse crap. (the only way to do that is Monster stickers everywhere)

The truck is a rust free truck from the south, and been imported into NY. That gives the body about a 10 year lifespan, and with the mileage I plan on using the truck for (about 10k a year) I'd like the motor/tranny to last as long as the body does. So I'm looking for tips to make that happen. (I plan on driving the truck to work one day per week, so it'll have at least a 40 mile round trip when it's not being used)

So far the oil pan has already been replaced, as well as the front and rear main seals, all the brakes, and most of the steering components. The steering gearbox is sloppy, but I'm picking up another one this afternoon.

Feel free to point me at a thread for newb's like me, as searching turns up more stuff than I can read.
To add to that, I've been experimenting with cold starts.. It has the block heater (is this a factory option?) which I haven't used yet as I wanted to test how well the glow plugs worked.

So far, yesterday, it was about 31f, and it was grumpy starting without the heater. It took 4 or 5 cycles of the warmup before it fired the first time, and 2 more to start.

Today, it was 17f out, took 5 tries to fire once, but didn't fire again and didn't start after 10 tries.

So I plugged in the heater because I need to drive it tomorrow.

What is the normal range for needing to plug it in? Or I guess, the better question is, how cold do the glow plugs typically work on the 7.3? (I know they burn out using starting fluid

Elsewhere people suggested using K100 additive. Reading the reviews, it's miracle stuff. Does it live up to its reputation?

More questions later, and come spring I might look at mods.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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FYI, the heater was on a couple hours. turn the key and hold it for about 3 seconds, and it started.

Above freezing, it always starts first turn.

Sounds like plugging it in when it's freezing or below will work well.

That typical?
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 04:35 AM
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You probably need glow plugs and maybe the valve cover gaskets and under valve cover harnesses. Had a 97 F-450 at my old job that behaved much the same. Did the above three one at a time because the mechanic didn't care and the boss kept things on a tight budget (he'd have done one glow plug at a time if the mechanic could have identified individual ones in need of replacement). Anyway, the truck should cold start without being plugged in all the way down to 0F, maybe not well, but it should start. You can also try a Cetane booster or fuel catalyst to help it along. Stay away from the emergency fuel treatments unless you know it's so cold you're gelled.

The Current Truck (Oct-2013 to Present):
1999 (Early) F-350 Lariat, CCLB, SRW, Black/Tan

7.3L Powerstroke, 4R100, 4x4, 3.73, 37x13.50-18s, '05 Axle Swap, 6" Fabtech lift, GTP38 "D66" turbo upgrade, SCT 4-position chip with custom tuning by me, Straight Piped 4" down pipe through 5" dual stacks, N-Fab full length triple steps, Pro-Tech cab guard and tool box, louvered 5th wheel gate, Hella 500 Fog and Driving lamps, much more to come...
The one I'll miss, (Mar-2009 to Jan-2014):
2000 Excursion XLT 4x4

6.8L V-10, 4R100, 4.30, 285/75-18, 271whp / 388wtq
The one I won't, (Jul-2005 to Sep-2012):
2005 F-350 XLT, CCLB, SRW, 4x4 FX4

6.0L PSD, ZF-6S650, 3.73, 35x12.5-18, 4.5" Lift
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 04:36 AM
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Oh, and welcome to TDG. When you get a chance, put your truck info in your signature so the members know what you've got going on and what they're helping you with.

The Current Truck (Oct-2013 to Present):
1999 (Early) F-350 Lariat, CCLB, SRW, Black/Tan

7.3L Powerstroke, 4R100, 4x4, 3.73, 37x13.50-18s, '05 Axle Swap, 6" Fabtech lift, GTP38 "D66" turbo upgrade, SCT 4-position chip with custom tuning by me, Straight Piped 4" down pipe through 5" dual stacks, N-Fab full length triple steps, Pro-Tech cab guard and tool box, louvered 5th wheel gate, Hella 500 Fog and Driving lamps, much more to come...
The one I'll miss, (Mar-2009 to Jan-2014):
2000 Excursion XLT 4x4

6.8L V-10, 4R100, 4.30, 285/75-18, 271whp / 388wtq
The one I won't, (Jul-2005 to Sep-2012):
2005 F-350 XLT, CCLB, SRW, 4x4 FX4

6.0L PSD, ZF-6S650, 3.73, 35x12.5-18, 4.5" Lift
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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What are you referring to with "emergency fuel treatment"? I'm not familiar with the term.

*sig test*

Current Truck (new to me): 2001 F-350 Off Road Crew Cab Lariat, Red / Tan Leather
100% Stock 7.3L PowerStroke turbo / 4x4 / 3.73 / Wildcat A/T / original motor & tranny with ~250k miles
Recent work: #1 injector & harness, oil pan replaced, front and rear main's replaced, new windshield, all new brakes, steering linkage and rod ends.
Future work: steering gearbox, figure out why door locks are weak.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-26-2014, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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Nevermind on the emergency treatment, I had some time to kill and went to an auto parts store. From the looks of it it isn't good for anything, and using it a couple times will probably result in repairs. Not something I'm interested in.

So yesterday I took it into work, it started right up because it was plugged in. After sitting at work for 10 hours in 15f weather, it didn't want to fire. After 20 minutes of cycling the warmup twice then turning the key for about 2 seconds, the batteries started wearing down, and I went for help. When I was turning it, about every other time it would fire, and it was firing longer when it started turning slower.

Jumping with a set of the $5 kmart jumper cables, it started on the 3rd try following the same procedure, It ran a little rough for about 3 minutes, then it ran fine the rest of the night I was doing stuff with it. Started several times while running errands.

Tonight after work when it hadn't gone over 15f all day, it turned over over slow twice, so it got plugged in an hour ago.

Just turned it over again 3x, and it turned over quicker but didn't show any signs of firing.

Definitely gonna stay plugged in until it's fixed, and run every couple hours to keep it warm when it's not plugged in.

Current Truck (new to me): 2001 F-350 Off Road Crew Cab Lariat, Red / Tan Leather
100% Stock 7.3L PowerStroke turbo / 4x4 / 3.73 / Wildcat A/T / original motor & tranny with ~250k miles
Recent work: #1 injector & harness, oil pan replaced, front and rear main's replaced, new windshield, all new brakes, steering linkage and rod ends.
Future work: steering gearbox, figure out why door locks are weak.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014, 02:03 AM
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You NEED new batteries. Diesel engines kill batteries and even more so in cold weather. You must get a pair of batteries as only replacing one battery will kill it fast. You can spend hours jumping and plugging in and still have the difficulties you are having. Good luck!

Dave

2004 Ford F-350 Regular cab with 6.0.
Completely Stock.

KK6TNI - HAM Radio

http://bennettlaneshopping.com/ - Our Outdoor/Garden and Kitchen Ware store
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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I was coming to the conclusion myself that the batteries were weak. One of the other symptoms, is the power locks don't work. You hit the button and while the solenoids all make noise, it doesn't lock or unlock. (had the same symptoms on my car just before replacing the battery, the car battery was down to 47 cca)

But, I've had the truck for just over a week, and didn't want to make any assumptions.

A pair of these will work? http://www.interstatebatteries.com/c...l_V8%2f7.3L%29

Current Truck (new to me): 2001 F-350 Off Road Crew Cab Lariat, Red / Tan Leather
100% Stock 7.3L PowerStroke turbo / 4x4 / 3.73 / Wildcat A/T / original motor & tranny with ~250k miles
Recent work: #1 injector & harness, oil pan replaced, front and rear main's replaced, new windshield, all new brakes, steering linkage and rod ends.
Future work: steering gearbox, figure out why door locks are weak.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014, 01:36 PM
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You can use almost any good battery. That choice is up to you. That battery seems to be right for your application. You will be amazed at how fast your truck starts.

Dave

2004 Ford F-350 Regular cab with 6.0.
Completely Stock.

KK6TNI - HAM Radio

http://bennettlaneshopping.com/ - Our Outdoor/Garden and Kitchen Ware store
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-01-2014, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Well, a new pair of 880CCA batteries, 16f degrees out, not plugged in, and no start. (yes, I cleaned the cable ends and put protectant on them)

As I pulled the old batteries out, they had 7/13 stickers on them, so they were 8 months old.

$300 out the window.

Next idea?

BTW, spoke to the previous owner about the hard start issue, and he said that he had put new glow plugs and harnesses in. (this was after I purchased the truck as-is, so he has no reason to lie)

Current Truck (new to me): 2001 F-350 Off Road Crew Cab Lariat, Red / Tan Leather
100% Stock 7.3L PowerStroke turbo / 4x4 / 3.73 / Wildcat A/T / original motor & tranny with ~250k miles
Recent work: #1 injector & harness, oil pan replaced, front and rear main's replaced, new windshield, all new brakes, steering linkage and rod ends.
Future work: steering gearbox, figure out why door locks are weak.

Last edited by damm315er; 03-01-2014 at 01:22 PM.
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